BTCC LED running lights

[rik_t]

Looking good, you got a list of parts together yet? I am going to redo my DRL's soon. So far I have got new bulbs and bulb holders. What you planning for domes and tubing? I've been looking at this tubing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261114763...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[shnazzle]

Looking good, you got a list of parts together yet? I am going to redo my DRL's soon. So far I have got new bulbs and bulb holders. What you planning for domes and tubing? I've been looking at this tubing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261114763...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Don't forget to wrap it in opaque white tape or spray them white, otherwise all the light will just go out the sides And white because it reflects the light more.

The problem is finding tubes that fit. It looks like I'll need 3 tubes fit into each other because the inside diameter (ID) and outside diameter (OD) need to match.

So I need a 10mm OD tube for the cabochon, and then a 15ish mm ID tube for the SMD assembly. But...that would mean that there would be a big gap between the two tubes...so I'd need another one so that the inside and outside diameters reach each pther Does that make sense?

the most amazing thing would be a funnel that goes from 10mm OD to 20ish mm OD. One side for the cabochon and one side for the SMD connector

 

[shnazzle]

Few pics of the T10 connector with ruler. Sorry, no micrometer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shnazzle]

Just realised I used the wrong side of the feckin ruler!!!
I don't even know how to work with stupid inches/feet.

In order of appearance:
* 15mm from little sticky out 'barb' to the other
* 17-18mm from side to side of the whole 'body'. The widest point
* 15mm on bottom square bit side to side
* 8mm width of square bit

 

[robthebubble]

Patrick....was about to ask for it in metric!

 

[shnazzle]

Patrick....was about to ask for it in metric!

Yeah I should have waited until I finished my coffee before I did this
I also messed up on the top two measurements, so I have adjusted them

 

[robthebubble]

I think those measurements are perfect for my alteration!

 

[shnazzle]

Good

I have also found how I'm going to attach the lights to the back/front plate tubes by using the barbs on the connectors.
It'll take some fiddling but it'll work. Basically just adding some simple studs on the outside of the tubes to catch the bayonet fitting of the T10 connectors.

 

[robthebubble]

I can see how that can work...however if the holder is a tight fit in the tube you may not need to do that option.

 

[shnazzle]

Not good enough
All I need is a 18mm OD by 15mm ID tube, get a small drill bit out and make a bayonet catch.
Done. Stick it to the back plate. sorted. The rest "dangles" off the back

 

[robthebubble]

I see what you mean....good idea!

 

[shnazzle]

I've finished what I'm going to do. It's simple. It's easy to build, and it'll make it easy to adjust for any car.

Behold:

2-plate design.
- Back-plate(s) to hold the T10 connectors by bayonet fitting.
- Front plate to hold the cabochons.
Both held together with tube segments

And an idea for the specific front/back plates for a BTCC kit. These are just two sheets of plastic from a DVD case, so really easy to make a new template for another car.
Just draw them out, cut them out, stick them together with the tube segments...done.

 

[robthebubble]

So the front DVD case will be moulded to the shape of the vent?...I think you need to make a set to see how they work.

 

[shnazzle]

Yeah will do. Should be easy enough. It doesn't need to be a hard-fixed solution. In fact, it doesn't really need to be moulded at all. It's just to make the screws sit in nicer.

But the DVD case is so thin, and the plastic so flexible that I should just be able to bend the front plate strip into the general shape I need.
Then screw it into the vent and drill the holes using the vent holes as a template.

Got some DVD boxes and pipe stiffeners in the post now so going to get the front plate sorted asap.
If it's a go. I can just trace it, put it in a JPG and put in on here for people to print out and make templates.
The rear backing plate doesn't even have to be one piece. I have 2 in my picture above.
Instead of the pipes, you could just use a 5mm thick piece of acrylic and have the front/back plate in one with a bit tinkering. But this would take a dremel and some fanciness.
Can't be bothered.

 

[robthebubble]

Just be aware that when you flex the DVD case anything attached to it (e.g. the pipes) may come off even with glue/silicone holding them in place...I know this from experience. Hopefully it will work fine but just be aware of this point.

 

[shnazzle]

Just be aware that when you flex the DVD case anything attached to it (e.g. the pipes) may come off even with glue/silicone holding them in place...I know this from experience. Hopefully it will work fine but just be aware of this point.

Yeah I've thought of this, and read about it too. It's a bit of a pain.
I have a piece of thicker acrylic plastic and am considering using that for the front plate. The back plate can essentially be just squares of plastic glued to the tube segments. This would mean virtually no flex. Unless you start pulling at the T10 connectors.

 

[robthebubble]

If it doesn't work try heat moulding the plastic plate...quick heat in the oven (or heat gun) and Bob's you're Uncle/Fanny's your Aunt! Job done and perfect fit.

 

[shnazzle]

I'm starting to warm to the idea of the thicker acrylic and using a forstner bit to make bezels for the connectors to sit in. Then any flex would be out of the question. But that's just farting around really

 

[shnazzle]

Made a proof-of-concept at work using a bit of cardboard and tape. And my trusty swiss army knife.
This leads nicely into this

Took me 10 minutes to throw this together. I don't expect it to take much more for the real thing. All to scale, but not to the mm
View from the back plate with hole and tabs for the bayonet fitting of T10 connector (slightly covered by tape...)

Side view with "pipe" in between.

Front plate with cabochon...or bundle of tape...taped to the front plate The hole is actually under the "cabochon" (see picture 1)

T10 connector in bayonet fitting and twisted to lock (yes I brought it to work...what?)

Ta da! For one... You can do a Rob and glue/weld 6 of these setups to the vent (only cost 22 a pair anyway). Or try to make one front-plate that fits using the stock screw holes...which is what I will try.

 

[robthebubble]

Clearly not much to do at work then!

Hose pipe for the tube?....just might be the right size and won't allow light to escape.

Anyway, looks good...just trim the top plate so its round and it will look much neater. You could also use momething like a plastic bottle top to replace the tube and backing plate. Cut the hole and notches in the top and you've saved time in the process making.