I would like to know if you can wire a aftermarket subwoofer to the original head unit in a cupra mk3 2016?
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Can you wire a aftermarket subwoofer to the original head unit in a cupra mk3?
- Thread starter Charliessmith
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I have a mk3 2014 m1b stereo with no RCA outputs... So when I added my underseat subs, I tapped of the high level door speakers... My subs take both high and low level inputs....
The head unit, per se, is just a monitor in the dash.
The brains behind the stereo system is the box in glove box....
(picture borrowed from matrix strip down thread)
So you tap into the wires behind this...
On the left are the tweeter outputs. The right are the door speaker outputs.. I tapped into the front door speaker...
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Do you know where they plug in the sub you can buy from Seat, the one that goes in the spare wheel?
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Here is the full tutorial. Its in spanish though https://www.clubseatleon.net/viewtopic.php?p=1714804#p1714804
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What gauge wire should I use for the install I have a vibe black air vented v12 1600w and the amp is the vibe black air bass 2 with 3000w
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I just tapped into this huge wire under the dash. I followed it and it goes direct to battery...
I don't have the subwoofer volume on the infotainment screen, does it have to be activated?
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If you are installing an oem system/subwoofer by SEAT, then there will be a software update needed by seat to enable the subwoofer volume..
If, like me, you install a 3rd party subwoofer then no, no subwoofer on the infotainment will be available...
Back in my boy racer days, i would always follow the bonnet release cable with power lead for sub as the cable tends to be surrounded by a rubber grommet.
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Hey thanks for that, where is that wire? Any idea what it’s for?I just tapped into this huge wire under the dash. I followed it and it goes direct to battery...
If you look under the glove box to left... It comes from the battery into the fuse box....
To give you an idea of where to look. This arrow marks the bonnet release latch...
I'm thinking the above is just a temporary splice to test the installation? The fact you've used some cable ties to provide some strain relief may point towards this being the final install though? Sorry if this sounds overly critical, but I've been in a car with a major electrical fire and modern cars don't like having an immediate and complete lack of electricity, then you have the fire issue.
Personally I wouldn't want such a connection in any car I was driving, a few wraps of bog standard tape isn't up to the job.
The cable is that gauge because it's high current and presumably is the primary feed to the fuse box. I don't have the schematic but it could be carrying 55-100A, so you need a connection which is mechanically and electrically secure. That means a proper insulated splitter and an appropriate in line fuse as a minimum.
Personally I wouldn't want such a connection in any car I was driving, a few wraps of bog standard tape isn't up to the job.
The cable is that gauge because it's high current and presumably is the primary feed to the fuse box. I don't have the schematic but it could be carrying 55-100A, so you need a connection which is mechanically and electrically secure. That means a proper insulated splitter and an appropriate in line fuse as a minimum.
I thoroughly agree with you, and yes it's always predunt to be cautious. But yes this is my final install and so far I have had no issues with anything electrical. It is a direct feed from the battery positive terminal so I don't see the difference in splicing here than attaching straight onto the terminal itself....
I have soldered the yellow wire (17A) to the red. So it's pretty secure. The yellow cable is power to the amp via a 10A fuse....
The cable ties are indeed Stress relief but I've left so much slack, there no way there's any strain on the red wire.....
Again I agree with what you have said, and value any input/opinions.
Cheers mate. I shall try going directly to the battery but if that fails I’ll be doing the same!If you look under the glove box to left... It comes from the battery into the fuse box....
To give you an idea of where to look. This arrow marks the bonnet release latch...
The manufacturer has an installation guide on their website, under the Support button.
If it truly is 1600W then potentially it can draw 133Amps, so from the guide.
Power Connection, direct to battery with 150A fuse. AWG 2 (American Wire Gauge) which is approx 6.5mm diameter 34mm2 area.
Ground connection. AWG 4, (5.25mm diameter, or 22mm area). Direct to chassis mount, not seat belt anchoring points.
Self amalgamating tape is a better solution than regular insulation tape if you absolutely have to splice in. I'd be inclined to take it to an installer though if that was my only DIY option.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
The installation manual linked above has all the answers, the remote control (signal) control goes in port 2, the 12v power in the REM socket to the right of the speaker inputs.
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