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Cupra R - Forge Remap Logs....feels slow
- Thread starter ChrisGTL
- Start date
so the lambda values are expected to decrease as the revs rise, meaning the engine will run leaner at higher RPMs... right?
If block 31 is actual vs requested, this surely means the map is requesting richer/leaner/richer/leaner mixes all over the place through the rev range, yeah? Am I the only one thinking that this may be an issue with the actual map?
If block 31 is actual vs requested, this surely means the map is requesting richer/leaner/richer/leaner mixes all over the place through the rev range, yeah? Am I the only one thinking that this may be an issue with the actual map?
Ey up Ben.
Glad to see your getting help on here
I've just sorted my FMIC out yesterday so will do the same logs as we did on yours so we can compare.
After fixing my boost leaks yours does indeed feel slow........I didnt feel the big kick in torque in yours which I get at around 3k in mine.
Will be interesting to see the APR vs Forge map results.
Alright chris, what you done with the boost pipes? just got chunkier jubilee clips?
yeah I would expect it to feel quicker than mine, mine feels so pants at the moment!!
APR vs forge map results the way mine is running at the moment you should do pretty well lol. did you get my PM the other day?
No, the other way round - lower lambda numbers mean it's running richer. I'm told that this happens to keep the cylinder temps down at higher loads, as the extra fuel cools things down in there. This is basically what my car is NOT doing!
Like James Walker says, multiply any of the lambda numbers by 14.7 and this gives you the air:fuel ratio, so on your second log at 6000rpm you showed a lambda figure of 0.86 in the first column (not sure if this is requested or actual or whatever) but multiply that by 14.7 gives 12.642, meaning the air to fuel ratio there is 12.642 to 1. I'm presuming this is in terms of volume.
In your case it could be that your ECU has a dodgy fuelling map on it which is causing it to request strange values, yes. That said, there must be other possible causes for this, as I said my car has the standard, OEM map on it and it's not requesting any more fuel up the rev range.
Hmm... so basically these logs have told us that something is wrong somewhere but its pretty much impossible to find out what is wrong without using trial and error swapping parts over left right and centre lol.... oh dear 
so if the values are supposed to be 0.8, mine is completely wrong the whole way throughout the revs? brilliant! 8bit you will have to keep me updated on what is happening with yours and if you manage to sort it out!
I will look at getting fuel filter swapped although I have a hectic couple of weeks coming up at work typical!
so if the values are supposed to be 0.8, mine is completely wrong the whole way throughout the revs? brilliant! 8bit you will have to keep me updated on what is happening with yours and if you manage to sort it out!
I will look at getting fuel filter swapped although I have a hectic couple of weeks coming up at work
typical!
Hmm... so basically these logs have told us that something is wrong somewhere but its pretty much impossible to find out what is wrong without using trial and error swapping parts over left right and centre lol.... oh dear
so if the values are supposed to be 0.8, mine is completely wrong the whole way throughout the revs? brilliant! 8bit you will have to keep me updated on what is happening with yours and if you manage to sort it out!
I will look at getting fuel filter swapped although I have a hectic couple of weeks coming up at work
0.8xx under full Load don't forget
yeah i did notice that cheers james, like i said the runs were literally foot flat on the floor, so presumably they should have been 0.8xx on every single value (obviously except the last few when I had let off the throttle?)
what else do you reckon it could be? I am willing to try the filter, although personally would think that if it was an issue with supply (clogged filter/ knackered fuel pump) wouldnt it be the other way around - leaning off as the revs increase and more fuel is wanted but cannot be supplied?
what else do you reckon it could be? I am willing to try the filter, although personally would think that if it was an issue with supply (clogged filter/ knackered fuel pump) wouldnt it be the other way around - leaning off as the revs increase and more fuel is wanted but cannot be supplied?
those graphs are interesting chris, don't see how using a stiffer spring would give you less lower down though.... I would have thought the opposite - less likely for the DV to open under hard boost so should stay closed and let your boost be used to its full potential?
quite a noticable difference between the two though....I wish more people had the forge map so could directly compare with them and see how mine is against what it should be!
quite a noticable difference between the two though....I wish more people had the forge map so could directly compare with them and see how mine is against what it should be!
What I was told by the operator at the RR day where my fuelling issue was discovered was that the fuel/air ratio is meant to richen up as the exhaust gas temps increase, typically due to higher engine RPM. This means that it'll start about 14.7 to 1 from low engine speed and should drop steadily towards about 12.5 to 1 near the redline. 14.7 = 1.00 in the lambda figures, 12.5 = 0.85. Yours is doing that, just it's jumping about a bit in the process. Here's my fuelling graphs:
Ignoring the very high figures at the start, those were when the throttle was closed just before starting the run. You can see that the numbers stay pretty well bang on 14, they're suppose to curve downwards to about 12.5 by the end of the run.
In your case it could be a faulty fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator or possibly the vacuum hose going to the regulator. If you remove the engine cover you'll see the fuel rail sitting just on top of the intake manifold. At the passenger-side end of that there's a small round thing which will have a black (probably) hose coming off it, that's the regulator. Worth checking that the hose is in good nick and secured properly.
Here's my thread if you want to read up on what's going on with mine so far - http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=282854 - I'm taking it to a garage to get fuel filter changed and injector seals replaced (among other things, due a service anyway). I'll post back in the above thread if there's any news.
Ignoring the very high figures at the start, those were when the throttle was closed just before starting the run. You can see that the numbers stay pretty well bang on 14, they're suppose to curve downwards to about 12.5 by the end of the run.
In your case it could be a faulty fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator or possibly the vacuum hose going to the regulator. If you remove the engine cover you'll see the fuel rail sitting just on top of the intake manifold. At the passenger-side end of that there's a small round thing which will have a black (probably) hose coming off it, that's the regulator. Worth checking that the hose is in good nick and secured properly.
Here's my thread if you want to read up on what's going on with mine so far - http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=282854 - I'm taking it to a garage to get fuel filter changed and injector seals replaced (among other things, due a service anyway). I'll post back in the above thread if there's any news.
Actually, I just remembered I meant to put this earlier but didnt - there has been a slight ticking that seems to be coming from somewhere near the fuel rail somewhere... I am presuming this is likely related to my issues... dodgy injector or something maybe? could this cause this? Yeah good point there I'll check the hose for the FPR.
Thanks for the graphs and explanations (they were needed lol), it does appear to be sitting pretty firmly around the 14 mark doesnt it.... I'll try take a read through your thread at work tomorrow....
At least with your problem you could just pass it off as a tree hugging feature and tell everyone its to save pushing extra fuel in haha!
Thanks for the graphs and explanations (they were needed lol), it does appear to be sitting pretty firmly around the 14 mark doesnt it.... I'll try take a read through your thread at work tomorrow....
At least with your problem you could just pass it off as a tree hugging feature and tell everyone its to save pushing extra fuel in haha!
The 1.8T engines are all pretty "ticky", there's a thing on the driver's side called "carbon canister" (i think, heard a few names for it) which is part of the fuelling system, they make a fair tick. If you have the engine running with the bonnet open and the engine cover off it will sound pretty ticky.
Wish my issue was just a fuel economy thing but have been told that long term it's accelerating the rate of wear on the engine and been advised against track days or 1/4 mile days
Wish my issue was just a fuel economy thing but have been told that long term it's accelerating the rate of wear on the engine and been advised against track days or 1/4 mile days
ouch thats not good news to hear!
Yeah i know the carbon cannister ticks, I don't think it is this though, it definately seemed to be coming from the fuel rail/intake manifold sort of area.....
Yeah i know the carbon cannister ticks, I don't think it is this though, it definately seemed to be coming from the fuel rail/intake manifold sort of area.....
Regarding your erratic fuelling, read something in another thread while looking for something else. Turns out one possiblity could be excessively high exhaust gas temps, the ECU will dump extra fuel into the cylinders to lower the cylinder temps as a safety thing. Altho, if the exhaust gas temp sensor is faulty (or in this guy's case, the cable between it and the ECU is damaged) then that could cause the same effect:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=244532&highlight=injector+duty+cycle&page=2
Someone said you can log exhaust gas temps on block 118 but according to the Rosstech website that's Engine Speed, Intake Air Temp, Boost Duty Cycle and Actual Boost, not sure if the EGT can be derived from any of that by some formula tho.
Could be a red herring but worth checking out...
EDIT - Check the "Symptoms" bit in the first post on page two that I linked to above, one of them is lambda's dropping to 0.751 intermittently, which is much like yours seemed to be doing.
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=244532&highlight=injector+duty+cycle&page=2
Someone said you can log exhaust gas temps on block 118 but according to the Rosstech website that's Engine Speed, Intake Air Temp, Boost Duty Cycle and Actual Boost, not sure if the EGT can be derived from any of that by some formula tho.
Could be a red herring but worth checking out...
EDIT - Check the "Symptoms" bit in the first post on page two that I linked to above, one of them is lambda's dropping to 0.751 intermittently, which is much like yours seemed to be doing.
Hmm thanks for that 8bit, an interesting read... it does seem to show some of my symptoms like you said... although I've never had any EGT related fault codes present............ Im going to have to get hold of a copy of vagcom and start looking at all this ASAP!
Im going to have to get hold of a copy of vagcom and start looking at all this ASAP!Ive just changed my fuel filter - The car feels to be running better, and seems to be slightly more perky... before, it seemed to pick up, then pull back slightly, whereas now it doesnt feel to be doing the pulling back part....
going to disconnect battery to reset ECU and take it out later to reset any fuel trims etc and see how she performs from there..
8Bit I highly recommend you try this first off, as a new filter is only about 6 quid, and its literally a 3 minute job to change yourself, rather than sending it in for all the work you are about to do (been reading your thread too)... although I presume the fluid by your injectors problem will still need fixing....
going to disconnect battery to reset ECU and take it out later to reset any fuel trims etc and see how she performs from there..
8Bit I highly recommend you try this first off, as a new filter is only about 6 quid, and its literally a 3 minute job to change yourself, rather than sending it in for all the work you are about to do (been reading your thread too
)... although I presume the fluid by your injectors problem will still need fixing....That's good news I had my long-term fuel trims checked last night, turned out it was showing a bit of leaning-out, possibly as a result of my leaky injectors. Car's booked in for Wednesday next week, got a few things needing doing that I can't do myself so just asked them to do the filter and injector seals while they're at it so will see what happens.
Be interested to see your logs when you get a chance.
I had my long-term fuel trims checked last night, turned out it was showing a bit of leaning-out, possibly as a result of my leaky injectors. Car's booked in for Wednesday next week, got a few things needing doing that I can't do myself so just asked them to do the filter and injector seals while they're at it so will see what happens.Be interested to see your logs when you get a chance.
OK just had it out for a quick run.... I would say it feels smoother and less lumpy but still doesnt seem to feel as fast as it should.... I'm not optimistic about the logs, reckon they will be similar to before oh well at least fuel filter is crossed off the list of things to do now...
oh well at least fuel filter is crossed off the list of things to do now...Similar threads
