tripdiesel

Leon Cupra R 225
Mar 21, 2009
162
0
Isle of Wight
Since im picking up my cupra next week, i'd like to get a heads up on whats what under the bonnet, does anyone have a good guide for the BAM engine, also information on what type of parts are used, this is my first turbo car so i need to do my research. Any links or infor would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks
Tripdiesel
 
Don't have any guides i'm afraid but its a great car and i hope you enjoy it like i enjoy mine. What engine have you gone for?
 
Someone put up a small guide to the engine ancillaries

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2359149&postcount=10

The BAM engine is 1.8L (1781cc) with a KKK turbo 'K04' producing approx 225PS or 222BHP. It has a four cylinders and 20 valves (5 valves per cylinder, 2 intake, 3 exhaust).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#1.8_20VT_110-176kW

A stage 1 remap from the likes of Custom-Code will produce about 275PS or 272BHP but usually requires changing the diverter valve, which doesn't like the increased boost. The stock valve is a Bosch unit which most people change to a Forge 007P with yellow spring.

Also worth changing is the paper air filter to a lightly oiled cotton gauze such as Jetex or Green. Nothing else really needs to be changed unless you intend to move to stage 2 where a front mounted intercooler and stronger turbo inlet pipes might be required along with a faster flowing exhaust from the likes of milltek.

Most of this can be found using the search on this forum.
 
Last edited:
Someone put up a small guide to the engine ancillaries

URL Edit

The BAM engine is 1.8L (1781cc) with a KKK turbo 'K04' producing approx 225PS or 222BHP. It has a four cylinders and 20 valves (5 valves per cylinder, 2 intake, 3 exhaust).

URL Edit

A stage 1 remap from the likes of Custom-Code will produce about 275PS or 272BHP but usually requires changing the diverter valve, which doesn't like the increased boost. The stock valve is a Bosch unit which most people change to a Forge 007P with yellow spring.

Also worth changing is the paper air filter to a lightly oiled cotton gauze such as Jetex or Green. Nothing else really needs to be changed unless you intend to move to stage 2 where a front mounted intercooler and stronger turbo inlet pipes might be required along with a faster flowing exhaust from the likes of milltek.

Most of this can be found using the search on this forum.

Thankyou, the forge valve i was looking at from recommendation from a mate with a golf, they seem easy enough to fit, which is also handy, i see you have a custom code remap, what is your opinion on there work/code. What sort of gains are you seeing?

My Short terms plans are just a new filter, diverter valve and source a good remap. I dont think i need to start with stage 2 as im going from a 1.4 100hp to 225 i think thats a fair change to start, when i get bored with that ill look to stage 3.

Many Thanks
Tripdiesel
 
Thankyou, the forge valve i was looking at from recommendation from a mate with a golf, they seem easy enough to fit, which is also handy, i see you have a custom code remap, what is your opinion on there work/code. What sort of gains are you seeing?

My Short terms plans are just a new filter, diverter valve and source a good remap. I dont think i need to start with stage 2 as im going from a 1.4 100hp to 225 i think thats a fair change to start, when i get bored with that ill look to stage 3.

Many Thanks
Tripdiesel
I did a lot of research into remaps before opting for custom-code. Their map is very smooth and linear compared to a lot of the others, which was just what I was after.

It depends how you like to drive - I am really a petrolhead and diesel-style torque just doesn't suit my driving style - I like continuously increasing power all the way to the rev limiter - as it means when overtaking I can use the full rev range and know that I am getting more power.

Revo (and many others) seem to give you all the torque straight away and this then dies out as the turbo can't sustain this - the problem is it means peak power occurs around 5.5k revs which is far too small a power band.

I had my car on the RR before and after the remap and I achieved 234bhp@6700rpm stock and 281bhp@7500rpm mapped. I don't fully trust rolling roads and I think it over-compensated for losses and was reading about 300rpm too high seeing as the CC rev limit is actually 7200rpm. I think a more accurate reading is 225@6400rpm and 272@7200rpm.

Either way as you can see the power is very progressive - matching the stock map - I like to think of it as the stock map on steroids!

I'd agree on the remap, filter and dv - they're the only engine mods I've needed to do so far!
 
Well its not taken be long but got a few things for the motor already,

Forge 007P
Green Cotton Filter
Smoothed & Drilled the air box
Bosch Aerotwins
Touran Rear Wiper Converstion

Planned: Remap Stage 1