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Dead Battery
- Thread starter ChrWh
- Start date
I'm not sure if it has an automatic shut off for the radio
How to use Jump Leads :
Use the red jump lead to connect the positive terminal of the donor vehicle's good battery to the positive terminal of the flat battery.
Then use the black lead to connect the negative terminal of the good battery to a suitable earthing point on the engine or chassis of the other vehicle. This earthing point must be away from the battery and fuel system.
With both leads connected wait three minutes for the voltages to equalise before starting either engine.
Start the engine of the donor car and allow it to run for a minute then, with it still running, start the engine of the other car and leave both running at a fast idle for ten minutes. Do not remove the jump leads while the engines are running as this can cause serious damage to the electronics on either car.
If the jump leads get hot, then avoid a possible fire by switching off both engines and allowing the leads to cool.
Turn off the ignition on both cars and then disconnect the leads carefully in the reverse order to the way that they were connected. Be careful not to touch the clips against each other or against the car bodywork.
Start the car that had the dead battery using its own battery power. If it won't start this could indicate a more serious problem with the charging/ignition system that will need investigating by a professional.
How to use Jump Leads :
Use the red jump lead to connect the positive terminal of the donor vehicle's good battery to the positive terminal of the flat battery.
Then use the black lead to connect the negative terminal of the good battery to a suitable earthing point on the engine or chassis of the other vehicle. This earthing point must be away from the battery and fuel system.
With both leads connected wait three minutes for the voltages to equalise before starting either engine.
Start the engine of the donor car and allow it to run for a minute then, with it still running, start the engine of the other car and leave both running at a fast idle for ten minutes. Do not remove the jump leads while the engines are running as this can cause serious damage to the electronics on either car.
If the jump leads get hot, then avoid a possible fire by switching off both engines and allowing the leads to cool.
Turn off the ignition on both cars and then disconnect the leads carefully in the reverse order to the way that they were connected. Be careful not to touch the clips against each other or against the car bodywork.
Start the car that had the dead battery using its own battery power. If it won't start this could indicate a more serious problem with the charging/ignition system that will need investigating by a professional.
That contains a lot of stuff that I don't do...
First, I always have the donor engine running, far too many times I've had the donor engine not running and ended up with two flat batteries.
I also connect the lead straight to the terminals on both positive and negative. I don't know what the thinking is behind attaching it to the chassis? The various AA patrols I've had come out to a flat battery just plug it straight to the battery as well.
Jump leads getting hot means that you bought cheap leads. The good ones don't get hot.
And I also don't stop the engines before disconnecting the leads. If the car is running and the battery is known to only have a minimal charge, I'm not going to switch the engine off and run the risk of not starting it again.
I'm not disputing that text, I've seen it before on lots of websites. I just don't follow them to the letter...
My radio has an auto shut off, but it's a timer rather than voltage controlled. I guess it's to ensure that if you leave your car with the radio on, it will eventually turn off. It can be frustrating when I'm listening to music while fixing the car, and I'm having to turn it back on every ten minutes!
First, I always have the donor engine running, far too many times I've had the donor engine not running and ended up with two flat batteries.
I also connect the lead straight to the terminals on both positive and negative. I don't know what the thinking is behind attaching it to the chassis? The various AA patrols I've had come out to a flat battery just plug it straight to the battery as well.
Jump leads getting hot means that you bought cheap leads. The good ones don't get hot.
And I also don't stop the engines before disconnecting the leads. If the car is running and the battery is known to only have a minimal charge, I'm not going to switch the engine off and run the risk of not starting it again.
I'm not disputing that text, I've seen it before on lots of websites. I just don't follow them to the letter...
My radio has an auto shut off, but it's a timer rather than voltage controlled. I guess it's to ensure that if you leave your car with the radio on, it will eventually turn off. It can be frustrating when I'm listening to music while fixing the car, and I'm having to turn it back on every ten minutes!
I would tend to follow what Slimy has said, that is pretty much how I have always done it.
ALWAYS have the donor car engine running before connecting the leads, otherwise you WILL end up with two flat batteries. Again Slimy has it spot on in my opinion.
ALWAYS have the donor car engine running before connecting the leads, otherwise you WILL end up with two flat batteries. Again Slimy has it spot on in my opinion.
Hot jump leads sounds like a safety issue with poor quality thin leads. 
I agree with Slimy for the exact same reasons but will also add that I would always connect the earth leads first so that everything on both cars is earthed.
A far simpler way if you're not in a rush is to connect a battery charger over night and charge the battery up properly.
I would do this after the jump start anyway to ensure the battery is fully charged. driving a car with a low battery will take a while to fully charge it, especially if you are using wipers, heating, AC, lights and radio etc.
A partly charged battery can and will start an engine but keep doing it and your battery life will be shortened.
I agree with Slimy for the exact same reasons but will also add that I would always connect the earth leads first so that everything on both cars is earthed.
A far simpler way if you're not in a rush is to connect a battery charger over night and charge the battery up properly.
I would do this after the jump start anyway to ensure the battery is fully charged. driving a car with a low battery will take a while to fully charge it, especially if you are using wipers, heating, AC, lights and radio etc.
A partly charged battery can and will start an engine but keep doing it and your battery life will be shortened.
My advice is to trickle charge the battery to ensure a proper and full charge. A jump start will give the battery a boost enough to start it but this isn't what I would consider a full and proper charge.
Ibiza 09
Guest
i jump started mine last month and yes it does turn it self off automatically but the radio display should also say "Battery Low!" with a slight bin noise
Ibiza 09
Guest
i no doesnt take that long! the reason i had to jump start mine last month was because when i went to malta for a week i left the car side lights on so the battery died
Yeah I had 2 weeks of just crawling to and from work and covered 50 miles over 10 journey's, radio presented with battery low. So I called work and said I was going to be an hour late as I was at the garage with the car sorting out a problem that I didn't fully understand myself (so they don't ask what was wrong). Spent the next hour and a half bombing around country lanes with radio and other electrics off to give the battery a good boost.
To top it all, work paid me the hour because my boss loves my car.
ED
To top it all, work paid me the hour because my boss loves my car.
ED
Ibiza 09
Guest
Just hope your boss don't read this forum
He struggles to work his emails so I doubt he'd use this forum.
ED
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