Dave, you are now offically the world expert on the installation of the eliminator turbo and large bore inlet.
In the same way Dr Frankenstein led his area of expertise....
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DPJ's GTRS Eliminator Install and Development
- Thread starter DPJ
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In the same way Dr Frankenstein led his area of expertise....
Dave been thinking, did you use the gasket that came with the manifold or an OEM one from the dealers?
Read this.... re: the gaskets
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2808178
Read this.... re: the gaskets
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2808178
I used the ATP supplied one when I fitted the manifold Dec 06 and it failed 7k miles later with a 9mm gap mising at the back. I've fitted a dealer supplied one this time. My concern isn't really about gasket failure, it's that I'll end up with bolts snapped off in the turbo again....
I managed to give it some attention this afternoon.
I quickly decided that I wasn't going to get the engine side bolt in that holds the oil drain to the bottom of the turbo. I undid the driveshaft coupling, but the driveshaft wouldn't clear the drive flange. A quick email to m0rk and the answer came back to undo the bottom ball joint plate from the wishbone. With the driveshaft to one side, it was easy to refit the oil drain.
***Tip for future installers, take the oil drain off the car and fit it to the turbo before you put the turbo down the back. You'd need to have the driveshaft uncoupled otherwise there wouldn't be sufficient clearance for fitting the turbo.
Tightened the driveshaft back up and then managed to completely slip the ball joint bracket off the end of the wishbone. With a nice stiff ARB on, the bracket was sitting 3" lower than the wishbone. I had to undo the droplink and f*** about with a jack and leverage to get it back on. (much harder with the wheel still on) The joys of working on your own.
I checked the gap between the driveshaft coupling and the bottom of the oil drain. 4mm! I decided I'd just see what happened if I refitted the curved shield that goes over the coupling. I managed to get it on but the coupling rubs it. It's plastic with heatproof material on the top to protect the rubber boot. The catching wasn't too bad, so I thought I'd just let the coupling wear it's way into it when the car was running. I had second thoughts about this later. I'm going to cut the shield through where it touches the oil drain as it's obviously this that's pushing it against the coupling.
I then spent 2 hours f***ing about with the little hose that is below the coolant temperature sensor as one of the shifter cables was rubbing on it. I couldn't position it any more towards the engine, so I ended up removing my shifter cable bracket and drilling new mounting holes so the bracket would sit 12mm further out. I refitted the cables. I'm not 100% happy with the angle of the cables but that can be resolved when I build a new bracket. I'm quite pleased with the feel of the change, it's not nearly as stiff as I thought it might be.
I've checked over all the turbo connections. The least satisfactory part is the air intake. My RamAir is actually touching the inner wing. I'll need to try and find a bit of slack somewhere so it doesn't transmit shocks to the MAF.
Tomorrow morning, I should be able to reconnect the charge side and fire up....
I quickly decided that I wasn't going to get the engine side bolt in that holds the oil drain to the bottom of the turbo. I undid the driveshaft coupling, but the driveshaft wouldn't clear the drive flange. A quick email to m0rk and the answer came back to undo the bottom ball joint plate from the wishbone. With the driveshaft to one side, it was easy to refit the oil drain.
***Tip for future installers, take the oil drain off the car and fit it to the turbo before you put the turbo down the back. You'd need to have the driveshaft uncoupled otherwise there wouldn't be sufficient clearance for fitting the turbo.
Tightened the driveshaft back up and then managed to completely slip the ball joint bracket off the end of the wishbone. With a nice stiff ARB on, the bracket was sitting 3" lower than the wishbone. I had to undo the droplink and f*** about with a jack and leverage to get it back on. (much harder with the wheel still on) The joys of working on your own.
I checked the gap between the driveshaft coupling and the bottom of the oil drain. 4mm!
I decided I'd just see what happened if I refitted the curved shield that goes over the coupling. I managed to get it on but the coupling rubs it. It's plastic with heatproof material on the top to protect the rubber boot. The catching wasn't too bad, so I thought I'd just let the coupling wear it's way into it when the car was running. I had second thoughts about this later. I'm going to cut the shield through where it touches the oil drain as it's obviously this that's pushing it against the coupling.I then spent 2 hours f***ing about with the little hose that is below the coolant temperature sensor as one of the shifter cables was rubbing on it. I couldn't position it any more towards the engine, so I ended up removing my shifter cable bracket and drilling new mounting holes so the bracket would sit 12mm further out. I refitted the cables. I'm not 100% happy with the angle of the cables but that can be resolved when I build a new bracket. I'm quite pleased with the feel of the change, it's not nearly as stiff as I thought it might be.
I've checked over all the turbo connections. The least satisfactory part is the air intake. My RamAir is actually touching the inner wing. I'll need to try and find a bit of slack somewhere so it doesn't transmit shocks to the MAF.
Tomorrow morning, I should be able to reconnect the charge side and fire up....
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Good luck Dave,
Don't forget oil, coolant and to prime turbo with oil.
Once the car gets warm the coolant level will probably drop (like mine did) causing a dash warning light to illuminate and bleep, at which point you'll shite yourself thinking your loosing coolant, so take some coolant with you on your test run.
Personally I'd let it idle 10 mins before driving so that any faults should show themselves. Stay off the main roads with your test run so you can pull over in safety if you need to. Run it in for a min of 30 miles before giving full beans.
Don't forget oil, coolant and to prime turbo with oil.
Once the car gets warm the coolant level will probably drop (like mine did) causing a dash warning light to illuminate and bleep, at which point you'll shite yourself thinking your loosing coolant, so take some coolant with you on your test run.
Personally I'd let it idle 10 mins before driving so that any faults should show themselves. Stay off the main roads with your test run so you can pull over in safety if you need to. Run it in for a min of 30 miles before giving full beans.
Nightmare of a day! Had to modify quite a few things. Bolt on kit, my arse!
It's running now - seems ok.![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
We've just had guests turn up (of the staying/partying kind) so I'll have to post a full report late tomorrow or Monday.
Thanks for the support guys!
It's running now - seems ok.
We've just had guests turn up (of the staying/partying kind) so I'll have to post a full report late tomorrow or Monday.
Thanks for the support guys!
wow thats the best time ever for me to find an interesting thread
Just spent the last half hour reading all the progress............ Quality work there mate.. My hat is off to you
Cant wait to see the write up
Just spent the last half hour reading all the progress............ Quality work there mate.. My hat is off to you
Cant wait to see the write up
Edit: Now we just need to convince you to loose the body kit
Glad its a runner tho dave, even tho i was expecting more of a post with smilies, but i guess your just glad its done.
Edit: Now we just need to convince you to loose the body kit
perhaps BT power will blow it off!
Interesting point. I bought a 30 month old car with 20k on the clock for not a lot of money. Why - because the bodykit made it cheap. I've come so close to taking it off loads of times... mainly haven't because I've had to spend the £££ on the kids' cars instead.
It's fated to look that way - as it has from birth!
Actually, the next stage of the saga is interesting. I'm going to throw it open. Seriously what do we do next to maximise performance?
To start......
I intend to do some logs and then put up an 60-100. I'll pay for two RR runs at any point. suggestions? The intake side is shoite and I'll put up some photos to show you - I have ideas for improvements and i'll discuss.
Own up, - I'd forgotten but my downpipe is 2.5". I was persuaded on the custom build that it was good for much more bhp. It's now booked in at Pipewerx end of this month for a 3" DP.
Please throw ideas and suggestions at me.
Triple D
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