Dobbyboy

Active Member
Dec 27, 2012
138
0
Sunderland
Hi

Has anybody had any issues with driveshaft hub nuts coming loose?. Noticed I had a knocking/clunking noise from o/s/f wheel yesterday. Got the car jacked up and removed plastic hub cap and the 36mm hub nut fell out!. Checked everything over driveshaft/ hub etc and splines fine. When I checked the n/s/f hub nut managed to get two turns on it. I've retorqued both sides to 120nm as precaution.

This got me paranoid as if any previous work had been carried out poorly?. Spent then best part of a hour checking major componets/bolts etc case anything else was loose.:shrug:
 
Those bolts should be replaced if they've been removed. Every chance they've been re-used, and not torqued properly.

I can;t remember the exact figure off the top of my head, but I would suggest 120nm is very low for them
 
Those bolts should be replaced if they've been removed. Every chance they've been re-used, and not torqued properly.

I can;t remember the exact figure off the top of my head, but I would suggest 120nm is very low for them


Just had a quick look - Elsawin manual and the haynes manual both say 50nm + 1/8 turn more.

Like vroomtshh - I am amazed it is so low.

It is self locking so it should not be used again.
 
Just had a quick look - Elsawin manual and the haynes manual both say 50nm + 1/8 turn more.

Like vroomtshh - I am amazed it is so low.

It is self locking so it should not be used again.

There you go :shrug:

I was expecting something like 150nm + 1/4.

Mine are probably overly tight :lol:
 
Hi

Cheers for the replies guys, just checked autodata technical book states 50nm + 45 degrees more of a turn. Dealers stated the same, I. Order two new nuts as piece of mind and retorque on pay day. In the mean time ill Carry a 36mm socket and powerbar in me boot.
 
That is a bit annoying as anyone trading as a car fixer should never have considered handing that car back with reused hub nuts. If you look at the inside face you will quickly work out why as the spring steel locking tang will have broken off or now be doing nothing in the way of any future locking.
 
Yes work for skoda they always come loose! Must replace as have arms on to catch the thread so they dont undo.

Torque is key as over tightening will crack the bearing casing and will trash it after a few hundred/thousand!
 
Yes work for skoda they always come loose! Must replace as have arms on to catch the thread so they dont undo.

Torque is key as over tightening will crack the bearing casing and will trash it after a few hundred/thousand!

I priced these up at £3.61 inc vat each from pulman seat which was no bad. What torque settings do would you advise for the nuts. 50nm 45 degrees of a turn further?.
 
That is a bit annoying as anyone trading as a car fixer should never have considered handing that car back with reused hub nuts. If you look at the inside face you will quickly work out why as the spring steel locking tang will have broken off or now be doing nothing in the way of any future locking.

Exactly! Bet they didn't have a 36mm socket and used a hammer and punch!
 
Does vary between model, some are 50nm plus 45 some are 80nm plus 90 and some mix and match. Safe bet is to call the dealer and say just bought these whats the torque, or autodata it.
 
For what it's worth, the Haynes quoted torque seems to have worked out okay on my wife's 2003MY Polo 9N 1.4 16V as I had the shafts out of both sides a few years and probably 40+K miles back, I think that it was the front shaft bolts on my 2000MY Passat 4Motion that forced me to buy a man sized torque wrench.