electric window issues seat altea 2006

cdamorrell

Active Member
Feb 14, 2014
7
0
Hi all

Both of my front electric windows are sticking, when they close the make a horrid squeeking noise and I can't seem to get it fixed
one machanic said I need new rubber surround for £100 each
another machanic said the rubber needs oiling up
we all know rubber and oil don't go and the fix won't last

Can anyone help??

Thanks
 

robint

Full Member
Apr 12, 2006
168
9
UK, Essex
Find another mechanic....and look up 'squeaking windows' in the search - common Altea problem. You need new regulators at around £100 each plus fitting - the cables in the old ones go rusty and corrode. Fitting is not that easy unless you are a confident home mechanic. Doing anything to the rubber seals is a waste of time and effort.
 

cdamorrell

Active Member
Feb 14, 2014
7
0
Thanks for your replies
I have brought a new regulator and it has only fixed half of the issue
The window now goes up and down without the noise but it really struggles when going up and looks like it could fail at any point
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
It will be the cables failing which operate the mech, the cables tend to not wind into wheel properly as they age, also the squeaking is prob coz there is imbalance in the mech due to cable age so is not lifting the window true on the runners.
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
I repaired both my windows a while back £20 for parts per window off eBay. With instructions on how to fit cables, fiddly job thoa
 
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Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
When installing the new cables don't fully tighten the nuts retaining the runners and allow the window mech to do a few 'dry' runs without the window on, it allows all the cables to seat properly. Also you may have to fiddle with the adjustable runner to ensure its true. If one runner is out of alignment the as the window rises it with create strain/noise.
 
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Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
Also make sure the wheel is right way up in the housing , so the cables move freely, if it's placed in wrong the cables will still run but at an angle so won't move freely. Good luck.
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
But robint is right about the window rubbers, the noise may well be coming from the rubber, But the cause is defo window mech, waste of time touching rubbers. if the window is struggling to raise my first punt would be improper installation of cable wheel in housing and or cables wound around it.
 
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lewlau

Active Member
Feb 27, 2014
36
0
essex
Just done my drivers side, bought the kit from euro car parts 70 pound (cheaper on ebay) but easy job only about a hours work the old one got stuck about 3 quarters up when I took the old one out the wires where well and truly knackered, it's defo not rubbers I thought it was them aswell
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
Yeah you can either buy them ready loaded on new runners or repair old runners, I decided to repair old runners, bit more fiddly but way cheaper, yeah not too bad of a job, just fiddly. the first door took longer than the second door lol! I think if you went to a dealer they would replace them with ready loaded runners for an easy fuss free job. Unbolt old ones, bolt in new ones job done-prob an hour labour at most per door, Seat dealer quoted me £200 per door to fix! And I did both doors for £40! :) but anyone who does it make sure you got a nice selection of star key pieces of various sizes lol
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
I've got air con but I can't believe how much I missed being able to open the window!
 

SeatJay

Active Member
Jul 25, 2015
293
0
I should be taking this on next weekend, any tips or pointers aside the extensive guides to make this a bit easier?
 

Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
Hi Jay, well the difficulty of job depends on what is being replaced- either new cables repairing old runners(more fiddly) or new runners complete ready loaded with cables and motor wheel. Any tips? Well a good bowl(magnetic is handy) for all the star screws. A good set of various size star screw pieces also. Firstly time- depending on individual and type of repair then obviously it will vary, but I viewed the first door as a learning curve and the second went much more swiftly, but it's one of those jobs to allow yourself a free day to do, It's a bit blury as it's been a while but my first door prob took about 3hours but the second under an hour...i think, then if you've no garage there's weather to consider. First job removing door card, this isn't too bad just a bit of a pain. My car was 07 Altea xl so obviously it may vary. First job the pull
Handle/ window switch panel, if my minds serves me correctly, the face of the switch handle pulls off to reveal 2 star screws, second the faux leather door panel simply pulls off, don't be afraid give it a good tug, I cannot remember what this revealed but I do remember plenty of star screws here and there. Then you need to remove the plastic rear cover behind the metal door open handle so the card will lift over it, Central locking mech may need disconnecting also, disconnect the wire for the window switch, remove all star screws in bottom of door and any which you can find. Also I don't think it's needed but it is handy to remove to door speaker, prize off mesh cover to reveal, yes more star screws!! Once you are confident all screws have been removed start by prizing the door card away bottom first, a large plastic lever/bicycle tyre lever is handy, anything which will lift the card without scratching the door is good, once you can get your hands under it you have to pull and lift slightly upwards at the same time, pulling it off can be a bit of a bitch but persevere, there are a lot of snap in clips and hook clips which require the upward lifting remove and also two hook type things. Once door card is removed you will see the window and runners, probably a load of frayed cables leading to a motor, quick tip take pics as you go it will help remember how things went back. Loosen the two nuts the grip the window to the runner, carefully lift window pane and simply place inside door, there are more star screws holding the runners on, four I think? Remove these, then remove motor. At this point my memory is a bit sketchy, I cannot remember whether you have to take out whole motor or simply remove the cover and winding wheel, if you have new runners an cables then determine correct set for which door and fit in reverse of removal, I have an old thread on here which has a tuition video of runner repair, in which you will see the motor winding wheel and cover, it takes a bit of force to load it in just ensure it goes in correct way around, my tip here is to use a good blob of grease around the wheel and all cables, a preventative measure that seems to be overlooked in factory fitting of window mech, once you have fitted new parts operate the mech without the window in to ensure it is going up and down, when fitting the runners one of them has slight sideways adjustment or movement, do not fully tighten this runner, place window back on mech adjusting this runner if needs, the window mech may make a few strange sounds on it's first couple of runs but this can be normal, if the window is not lifting correctly then installation will need checking, don't forget to tighten the remaining runner when you are happy, also you have to ensure the window is placed in correctly so as it rises it's straight. Ultimately the difficulty of the job will vary as I said, I found it to be mildly challenging on first door but then very easy on second. I'm sorry I cannot give the process in greater detail as I do not have the car anymore to recall my absolute steps, car got written off a while back shunted in back, and I had not long had fitted a recon engine too !
 
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Rich07

Active Member
Feb 15, 2015
104
0
But really the only thing I can say to make the job easier is buy runners ready loaded? and prep well before you start, but for me I would say it's not a hard job at all.
 
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