Error codes where to start?

Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
So recently done a fault code reading and I am getting back 328199 and 328197 both for the AC Right temperature flap codes, I have been having issues with the heating for a while such as it only giving heat the very odd time and its barely warm. majority of the time its cold etc and also started to have a very slow coolant leak ( after a month it goes to empty ) So I think it all may be linked to 1 issue, can anyone recommend where to start? Its a 2016 FR 184.
I have done a flap calibration etc already and no joy, tried clearing the codes and they came straight back.

Thanks in advance for any help
 

BillyCool

Active Member
Jan 16, 2020
655
249
Leicestershire, UK
I would strongly recommend that you consider replacing your heater matrix.

If you search the forum, you will find lots of links between the blocked heater matrix, loss of cabin heat and loss of coolant during DPF regens.

Not sure about the fault codes though.
 
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SRGTD

Active Member
May 26, 2014
2,420
1,300
Maybe a blocked or partially blocked heater matrix - there’ve been a few instances of this with the mk7 Golf reported on various forums. With the 2.0 184 diesel engine, it’s sometimes caused by casting sand being left in the engine block after manufacture and the sand working its way around the cooling system into the heater matrix and blocking it. Another possible cause is the small bag of silica in the expansion tank - there‘ve been instances of this splitting and silica entering the cooling system and blocking the heater matrix (not all cars seem to have the silica bag). In expansion tanks that were originally fitted with the silica bag, ‘mit silikat’ should be printed on the outside of the tank. You can sometimes see it if you remove the cap off the expansion tank (don’t remove the cap when the cooling system is hot / pressurised). Some expansion tanks are double walled and the silica bag is sandwiched between the two walls.

If you do a search on the forum for ‘blocked heater matrix, I seem to remember there’re been similar cases with the mk3 Leon. Also, a general Google search for ‘mk7 Golf blocked heater matrix’ and you’ll find others.
 

Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
Appreciate the replies from both of you, I think I will get the heater matrix replaced as a next step.. I have removed the silica bag a couple months ago so don't think that is the issue. Again appreciate the replies I just wasn't sure what to do as there doesn't seem to be much information on these fault codes I've gotten..
 

BillyCool

Active Member
Jan 16, 2020
655
249
Leicestershire, UK
Just so you know, SEAT worksheet says 8 hours and removal of dash to change heater matrix. I was quoted over £1000.

Wiith help on this forum and the following video, I did it myself in 2 hours + €90 for the new matrix. I also repaced my expansion tank for one without the silicant bag for another £30. I've had no issues in 2+ years.


Hope you get it sorted.
 
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Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
Just so you know, SEAT worksheet says 8 hours and removal of dash to change heater matrix. I was quoted over £1000.

Wiith help on this forum and the following video, I did it myself in 2 hours + €90 for the new matrix. I also repaced my expansion tank for one without the silicant bag for another £30. I've had no issues in 2+ years.


Hope you get it sorted.
Appreciate it mate, I will most likely do a full coolant flush and replace the matrix myself in the near future. Will also replace the coolant tank because I might aswell. Thanks again!
 

Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
Just so you know, SEAT worksheet says 8 hours and removal of dash to change heater matrix. I was quoted over £1000.

Wiith help on this forum and the following video, I did it myself in 2 hours + €90 for the new matrix. I also repaced my expansion tank for one without the silicant bag for another £30. I've had no issues in 2+ years.


Hope you get it sorted.
Would you by chance have the part code for the heater matrix? I don't wanna buy the wrong one 😂 I've found this, would it do?
1663879571254.png
 

BillyCool

Active Member
Jan 16, 2020
655
249
Leicestershire, UK
Would you by chance have the part code for the heater matrix? I don't wanna buy the wrong one 😂 I've found this, would it do? View attachment 33754

Yep - that's the same that I fitted:


It's a like for like replacement.

Other info that I shared with a few other people to help make life easier and to avoid the mistakes I made:

-----------------------

Extra tips:

Line the footwell with thick plastic sheeting and then have some towels and kitchen towel ready. You WILL spill some, although only about 300ml actually comes out of the matrix (it's the smallest of the 3 coolant circuits).

There are 3 screws holding the blower motor in place. The one at the back is hard to get to, so a short T25 (or whatever size it is) on a small ratchet works best. Anything longer is hard to fit in the footwell.

When you remove the glovebox/multimedia unit - label all of the wires and remember (write down) what order things came out. There is a footwell light and glovebox light and it's easy to forget what goes where.

When you re-attach the pipes to the matrix - on the lower pipe make sure that the pipe is fully in and the retaining collar on the back is fully engaged and clips on to the back properly, otherwise it will leak a little (there is a small lip and it need to sit over that).

Also be careful when sliding in the new matrix. They are very easy to damage. Just be patient and take your time. Don't force it if it doesn't feel right.

The coolant circuit on the car is quite complex and you need special tools to fully flush/bleed it. As I was having my water pump changed (another known issue), I just got my mechanic to drop the main rad hose so most of my coolant got changed anyway. I never got it properly (professionally) flushed but it's been fine for 3 years.

I bought my matrix from Europe due to lack on UK stock. Cost me about €90.

It took me a couple of hours to do and I faffed a bit.

I did take some pictures as well so let me know if you need anything.

--------------------------------
 

Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
Yep - that's the same that I fitted:


It's a like for like replacement.

Other info that I shared with a few other people to help make life easier and to avoid the mistakes I made:

-----------------------

Extra tips:

Line the footwell with thick plastic sheeting and then have some towels and kitchen towel ready. You WILL spill some, although only about 300ml actually comes out of the matrix (it's the smallest of the 3 coolant circuits).

There are 3 screws holding the blower motor in place. The one at the back is hard to get to, so a short T25 (or whatever size it is) on a small ratchet works best. Anything longer is hard to fit in the footwell.

When you remove the glovebox/multimedia unit - label all of the wires and remember (write down) what order things came out. There is a footwell light and glovebox light and it's easy to forget what goes where.

When you re-attach the pipes to the matrix - on the lower pipe make sure that the pipe is fully in and the retaining collar on the back is fully engaged and clips on to the back properly, otherwise it will leak a little (there is a small lip and it need to sit over that).

Also be careful when sliding in the new matrix. They are very easy to damage. Just be patient and take your time. Don't force it if it doesn't feel right.

The coolant circuit on the car is quite complex and you need special tools to fully flush/bleed it. As I was having my water pump changed (another known issue), I just got my mechanic to drop the main rad hose so most of my coolant got changed anyway. I never got it properly (professionally) flushed but it's been fine for 3 years.

I bought my matrix from Europe due to lack on UK stock. Cost me about €90.

It took me a couple of hours to do and I faffed a bit.

I did take some pictures as well so let me know if you need anything.

--------------------------------
Legend!!!
 

Aero843

Active Member
Feb 23, 2021
30
7
Yep - that's the same that I fitted:


It's a like for like replacement.

Other info that I shared with a few other people to help make life easier and to avoid the mistakes I made:

-----------------------

Extra tips:

Line the footwell with thick plastic sheeting and then have some towels and kitchen towel ready. You WILL spill some, although only about 300ml actually comes out of the matrix (it's the smallest of the 3 coolant circuits).

There are 3 screws holding the blower motor in place. The one at the back is hard to get to, so a short T25 (or whatever size it is) on a small ratchet works best. Anything longer is hard to fit in the footwell.

When you remove the glovebox/multimedia unit - label all of the wires and remember (write down) what order things came out. There is a footwell light and glovebox light and it's easy to forget what goes where.

When you re-attach the pipes to the matrix - on the lower pipe make sure that the pipe is fully in and the retaining collar on the back is fully engaged and clips on to the back properly, otherwise it will leak a little (there is a small lip and it need to sit over that).

Also be careful when sliding in the new matrix. They are very easy to damage. Just be patient and take your time. Don't force it if it doesn't feel right.

The coolant circuit on the car is quite complex and you need special tools to fully flush/bleed it. As I was having my water pump changed (another known issue), I just got my mechanic to drop the main rad hose so most of my coolant got changed anyway. I never got it properly (professionally) flushed but it's been fine for 3 years.

I bought my matrix from Europe due to lack on UK stock. Cost me about €90.

It took me a couple of hours to do and I faffed a bit.

I did take some pictures as well so let me know if you need anything.

--------------------------------
Finally done it, dropped the rad hose and emptied that out, changed the matrix and have hot air again!! Just trying to bleed the system now atm, took the cap off and left it running with heat on but still getting slushing/gurgling sounds when air is turned off from being on etc, also driver side is warm but passenger seems warmer so might be just an airlock I’m hoping resolves itself as i drive it😬😬
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,344
594
Finally done it, dropped the rad hose and emptied that out, changed the matrix and have hot air again!! Just trying to bleed the system now atm, took the cap off and left it running with heat on but still getting slushing/gurgling sounds when air is turned off from being on etc, also driver side is warm but passenger seems warmer so might be just an airlock I’m hoping resolves itself as i drive it😬😬
If you have diagnostic interface (VCDS etc..) there is a coolant system bleed procedure which might help.
There are several circuits and many one way valves which can trap air.
 
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