If you want to take a drive to Cornwall, we can stick her on a ramp and do it. I've done mine twice over the last week! Just before you spend £350 on a recon unit with miles on it, I sent mine to midland turbo's, £222 for seals bearings and chemical clean, obviously balancing too. If you send on a monday, you'll have it back by wednesday. Free carriage with this, gaskets also. It's not just a case of remove the 8 manifold bolts AT ALL!!!! theres an oil drain, 22mm spanner, you'll need 12mm sockets and spanners, (mine were 12mm but others are 13mm) To make your life alot easier, remove the o/s driveshaft. There is also a little heatshield with two 12mm nuts on, tricky to get too with tip fitted, but just unclip the tip and move it as far away as you can. Also, the OEM oil feed pipe is very easily bent, so be very careful, it.s a 17mm on top of turbo, with a 17mm banjo bolt on the engine end, which is a bitch to get back on with the two copper washers. I bought a darkside braided one, alot easier as it allows the pipe to be bent for access to the engine one, and it has a banjo bolt for the turbo, so it's easier to just put a 17mm socket on top of the turbo. One more thing, when you prime the turbo, leave the oil drain off and prime in lots of 10 seconds until oil pours out, but fill the turbo with oil before, a syringe works well. You'll probably be better off doing an oil and filter change, and obviously new gaskets. thoroughly clean the boost pipes whilst they're off, and I cleaned my cooler with hp air and just plugged the pipe in there with rags and left for 20 mins. I was surprised how much oil was in mine considering I didn't actually suffer a turbo failure. Whilst you're at it, you'd be a fool not to clean the inlet manifold too. Hope this helps, it's all in my RR with pictures too.