I just wanted to say that the spring isn't too stiff, so the valve can operate properly (it leaks air to both sides).
As far as I know if I set it too hard, the valve won't open and I get turbo chatter.
Forge Split R - A Rough Guide
- Thread starter Klone
- Start date
As far as I know if I set it too hard, the valve won't open and I get turbo chatter.Now I really don't know what to do.
What about oiled panel filters? The oiling part is practically the same for both.
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I've also read the normal paper panel filter works proper and it might be an even better idea to open up the cold air feed to the original airbox. Check for R32 mod or something like this: http://intercoolerparts.nl/index.php?page=details&prod=211&cat=119&group=33
A cone filter like this works fine and is actually proven to improve airflow
http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=71113
http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=71113
oiled filters in general are bad for MAFs
i would get a jetex cone, or something like that.
as for your split-r 22 clicks doesnt seem too excessive?! i would consider maybe getting hold of a boost gauge and see if you are leaking if 22 gives you limp mode. i think im on 22-24 atm but i havent really checked mine since i checked a month after fitting!
i would get a jetex cone, or something like that.
as for your split-r 22 clicks doesnt seem too excessive?! i would consider maybe getting hold of a boost gauge and see if you are leaking if 22 gives you limp mode. i think im on 22-24 atm but i havent really checked mine since i checked a month after fitting!
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Jetex isn't oiled? I don't know the brand, I'm in Hungary, K&N and BMC are the most popular brands (and no name brands as well
).I don't know whether it's excessive or not, I'm just experimenting since I got limp mode at lower numbers.
It's a JR filter (same as Jetex just different name)
It is fine to run on your LCR. Many many people run these filters and have no MAF problems
Jetex isn't oiled? I don't know the brand, I'm in Hungary, K&N and BMC are the most popular brands (and no name brands as well
I don't know whether it's excessive or not, I'm just experimenting since I got limp mode at lower numbers.
Jetex isnt oiled no. i would avoid any oiled filter as the MAF really doesnt like it!
i dont think it is.
Will try, the official Hungarian reseller's home page doesn't say a word about this brand... Only high-end parts are shown there (Hartge, Väth, etc.).
But I'm not really surprised, here people still say that the FMDV004 is the best and only option if you want to replace the old DV...
Does it fit simply, or do I need any special part, heat shield, etc.?
I'm just curious, but how does this prevent the engine from sucking any small particles? Oiled filters use oil to prevent this happen.
Can you tell me what is the boost pressure of a non mapped LCR225? I've bought my car as a used one, the previous owner said it has no remap, but now I'm testing the valve and even with 23-24 clicks the valve sounds the same ("psssh" az before), no chatter...
yellowcupraR
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i really confused i have a splitter valve on my lcr 210. i have tryed it on full recirculating and tha part dump. if its in full recirculating position will it damage my turbo? i get chatter when it is but i dnt know if thats valve chatter or turbo chatter? any sugestions? i dnt know for sure if im not remapped either. so confused lol.
If it's in full recirc and you've set up the valve properly, it cannot harm your turbo.
I'm using the valve with 18 clicks (with 16-17 it seemed it's leaking some boost), I've got a little chatter coming from the valve, but only since I've done the N249 bypass.
I've tried with 15-17 clicks, the sound it makes is the same. Forge recommends 16 clicks for a standard Cupra R by the way.Forge Split R
Hi guys
Sorry to bring up an old thread but ive just bought a split r
I have a LCR 2004 BAM
Well i had a baileys one on there since i have bought the car and its been fine dumps well and car boosts up hard
So i thought il try the split r and the 007p which is on its way
Fitted the split r today but couldnt get it to dump at all as in no swooosh sound??
I tried 14 clicks, 16 clicks, 26 clicks and even 29,30,32 lol
No swoosh sound :/
The ca doesnt feel as fast as it was but not really going into a limp mode either
Now my question is how does it work?
Lower clicks e.g 16-20 more atmospheric?
Higher clicks e.g 28+ more recurculating?
Or vise versa?
I do want the swoosh sound but with the car boosting hard
Oh and im not sure which stage the car has been remapd to but deffo feels quicker than standard 225bhp as had one of these standard before
It does have turbo back milteck with decat resonated
FMIC
Jetex blue open cone
And i have bought a badger 5 3" TIP which needs to be fitted yet
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Hi guys
Sorry to bring up an old thread but ive just bought a split r
I have a LCR 2004 BAM
Well i had a baileys one on there since i have bought the car and its been fine dumps well and car boosts up hard
So i thought il try the split r and the 007p which is on its way
Fitted the split r today but couldnt get it to dump at all as in no swooosh sound??
I tried 14 clicks, 16 clicks, 26 clicks and even 29,30,32 lol
No swoosh sound :/
The ca doesnt feel as fast as it was but not really going into a limp mode either
Now my question is how does it work?
Lower clicks e.g 16-20 more atmospheric?
Higher clicks e.g 28+ more recurculating?
Or vise versa?
I do want the swoosh sound but with the car boosting hard
Oh and im not sure which stage the car has been remapd to but deffo feels quicker than standard 225bhp as had one of these standard before
It does have turbo back milteck with decat resonated
FMIC
Jetex blue open cone
And i have bought a badger 5 3" TIP which needs to be fitted yet
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
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