Forge Split R - A Rough Guide
- Thread starter Klone
- Start date
I'm just curious as why the Split-R, essentially a 007 with a port in the side runs in 'reverse' to the OE valve/007 recommended fitment 
andy_lang ran his the way your describing... with the trumpet facing the firewall right?
Thing there is you have the "bigger" opening (the original recirc opening) venting atmos and the "smaller" (original venting) recircing so might not be enough air going back in for the ECU.
Andy never had problems but i think his was stage 2.
Thing there is you have the "bigger" opening (the original recirc opening) venting atmos and the "smaller" (original venting) recircing so might not be enough air going back in for the ECU.
Andy never had problems but i think his was stage 2.
I hope you can help me, I've installed an FMDVSPLTR last weekend, but I couldn't manage to get the best setting. 
Under 16 clicks, I get limp mode after 2-3 minutes (usually after cruising with constant speed). 17-18 clicks seems fine in town, but on the motorway, I still get limp mode after 20-30 minutes (constant speed as well). Above 19 clicks I get limp mode almost immediately. I've tried everything between 14-21. Accidentally I've even tried with 31 clicks (my friend adjusted it, I said 15 clicks after 16, he added it to the previous amount 
), no sound, only a little chatter, so I pulled over to reset it.
My car is a 2004 LCR with 225 BHP (engine code: BAM), no remap.
What should I do? I switched from an FMDV004 because it didn't work on my car (limp mode always), so I really want to make this work.
Under 16 clicks, I get limp mode after 2-3 minutes (usually after cruising with constant speed). 17-18 clicks seems fine in town, but on the motorway, I still get limp mode after 20-30 minutes (constant speed as well). Above 19 clicks I get limp mode almost immediately. I've tried everything between 14-21. Accidentally I've even tried with 31 clicks (my friend adjusted it, I said 15 clicks after 16, he added it to the previous amount ), no sound, only a little chatter, so I pulled over to reset it.My car is a 2004 LCR with 225 BHP (engine code: BAM), no remap.
What should I do? I switched from an FMDV004 because it didn't work on my car (limp mode always), so I really want to make this work.
Some LCRs run fine, others don’t like it all and go limp regardless of the settings. It’s the limp mode lottery and it sounds like you’ve lost.
My advice would be to sell it and buy a recirculating dv like the forge 007p and 008. Then go for a open cone filter to get the dump noise.
My advice would be to sell it and buy a recirculating dv like the forge 007p and 008. Then go for a open cone filter to get the dump noise.
i tried 4 split r valves and got limp mode every time in every setting. from what i gather only certain types of ecu will tolerate the air leak without going into limp mode. getting limp mode from a split r valve is not a bad thing, it means your ecu is doing its job. my open cone filter with a forge 008 dv is much louder than the split r.
Is there any possibility to update the ECU without changing the unit itself? Maybe a remap...?
I'm a little bit afraid of cone filters. I've heard a lot of bad things about them. Now I'm using a K&N panel filter, I don't want to do any harm to my turbo.
This doesn't sound good...
I don't think is can sell it here easily... LCRs are not to common here, besides that people prefer cheaper valves (or cheap copies). But I can run the FMDVSPLTR in full recirculating mode as I've seen in the manual.
Thanks, I'm experimenting a little before doing this.
Do you think I should try the valve with 10 clicks (or less)? Yesterday I did 11 clicks, but I haven't tested it yet. When I've opened the box before fitting it, I've checked the valve, it was set to 2 or 3 clicks.
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Default Forge setting is 16 clicks if I remember it correctly. Mine is still set at 16 clicks, yesterday when pulling up full throttle, I received an error (System too lean, interemittent, thank god for vagcom). I cleared the code when I arrived home and went to 15 clicks.
LC180, non mapped. Powerfilter, Toyosports tip, Powerflex dogbone.
LC180, non mapped. Powerfilter, Toyosports tip, Powerflex dogbone.
I didn't clear the fault codes yet, maybe that's why I keep hitting limp mode in every setup?
With the FMDV004 I only got an error which says check DV.I've read the recommendation of 16 clicks, first I tried with 15, then went up to 21 (accidentally 31 too as I said it earlier
), now I'm winding down step by step after each limp mode.My car has no modifications, it's an LCR225 (no remap), K&N panel filter and the Forge FMDVSPLTR, everything else is the same as it came out of the factory.
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I hit limp mode (0.4 bar if I remember correctly) with 17 clicks, when I clicked down to 16 I could hit normal boost again (0.8 bar), but the error remained (cleared it as soon as I arrived home).
I need to get a boost gauge to check exactly which condition I get limp mode...
A lot of stage 1 Ibiza Cupras are running with 6-8 clicks as I saw here (I believe the performance of those matches the factory LCR225's
), now I don't really know which way to go. 
Boost gauge gives valuable information, you will notice rightaway if you have a boost leak and/or if you're ride is running in limp mode.
Is there any possibility to update the ECU without changing the unit itself? Maybe a remap...?
I'm a little bit afraid of cone filters. I've heard a lot of bad things about them. Now I'm using a K&N panel filter, I don't want to do any harm to my turbo.
Cone filter won't do your turbo or any part of your car any harm. Lot's of people run them with no problems
Oiled cone filters can and will hurt your MAF if I read correctly. Im running a dry cone (cotton) filter
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