Front and Rear Brake upgrade advice
- Thread starter ClusterPutt
- Start date
Same set at a reseller https://www.killerbrakes.com/produc...95b615124f-mqb-direct-upgrade-with-lines-new/
BargainFor the front Porsche Macan 4 pot calipers plug and play on 340/345 mm cupra front brake discs.
Direct from the porsche dealer
Thanks! Do you know if these would work with bigger disks? Ideally wanted bigger disks front and backFor the front Porsche Macan 4 pot calipers plug and play on 340/345 mm cupra front brake discs.
Direct from the porsche dealer
If your not tracking every week it do you really need to upgrade the callipers? Good disks, good pads & brided lines are more than good enough for road and the odd track day, and a lot cheaper than pulling the whole lot off for a complete replacement.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
To be honest I want the rears bigger for the aesthetic, I think 380s on the front and 310s on the back looks silly. I'm happy to keep the rear calipers the same, as most of the breaking is done by the fronts.
310x22 is the biggest MQB rear brake I can see used by R/Cupra/RS3/RSQ3 etc.
To go bigger your looking at something like an RS4 at 330x22 or and RS6 rear at 356x22 but even the 2+ tonne turbo V8 RS6 has a single piston sliding caliper - similar to your caliper just a little bigger. No idea if these would fit/bolt on?
As I mentioned in your IM, one of the difficulties with going 4 pot rear caliper is loosing the handbrake function.
To go to a 4x piston rear brake your looking at an Audi R8 setup!! with 356x32 rear discs and a separate handbrake caliper.
Tuning company specialized in Big Brakes and Performance Brakes
Tuning company specialized in Big Brakes and Performance Brakes for VAG - VW Audi Seat Skoda Porsche AMG available at www.KillerBrakes.com
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Some BMW's and AMG's have 4 piston rear brake but the use a small drum/shoe in hat hand brake design - and would need the whole rear hub/bearing/suspension modifying.
Theoretically possible - but certainly very expensive, and these cars with big rear brakes also have massive rear tyres to make the most of these big brakes vs 225/235!
Just bolt on the SUB8 front brakes or the Porsche Macan caliper mentioned above - either of which you'd need to check your wheel clearance.
Thanks for the reply. I think I'm going to go for bigger discs (for the looks) and use the original caliper with a modified bracket. Them I can have more symmetrical looking discs, with 6 pots on the front
Been offline for a while, but I think that you’ve got the reply above. RS7 rear aftermarket discs and adapters are an option (a number of companies have similar to the VBT adaptors) - you use the standard rear calliper/electronic hand brake.
I recently changed from OEM to RTS performance j hook discs, yellow stuff pads, braided hoses and high spec brake fluid. I completed the bed-in as per EBC instructions, but twice have had brake fade and cooked the brakes when pushing the car soon after fitting - don’t think that I achieved the correct temperate during bed-in. The pads are performing much better now, but haven’t thrashed it for a while to see if the hot cycling has cured the fade issue. I think that the braided hoses have achieved the greatest benefit in terms of brake feel/responsiveness.
Another mod that I completed was the racingline subframe bolt alignment kit - once fitted I couldn’t get front camber quite in spec, but it has taken out a lot of the sloppiness at the front end.
I recently changed from OEM to RTS performance j hook discs, yellow stuff pads, braided hoses and high spec brake fluid. I completed the bed-in as per EBC instructions, but twice have had brake fade and cooked the brakes when pushing the car soon after fitting - don’t think that I achieved the correct temperate during bed-in. The pads are performing much better now, but haven’t thrashed it for a while to see if the hot cycling has cured the fade issue. I think that the braided hoses have achieved the greatest benefit in terms of brake feel/responsiveness.
Another mod that I completed was the racingline subframe bolt alignment kit - once fitted I couldn’t get front camber quite in spec, but it has taken out a lot of the sloppiness at the front end.
Thanks everyone. My next stupid question, can someone explain the difference between single and 2 piece disks, and if there are any benefits or fitment differences?
Single - are 100% cast iron. Cheap, work fine for everyday cars - but are heavier, and not great at thermal expansion/fatigue resistance.
2 piece discs - basically you still have cast iron friction surface (cast iron is a very good friction surface) but mounted to a lighter weight bell usually alloy or also lately thin steel. Can be joined via pins (Audi RS6), Rivets (BMW Msport) or bolted (usually used in racing discs even better thermal fatigue as they can be fully floating/though can be noisy) These discs are lighter - usually 0.5 - 1kg per disc and also have better thermal fatigue resistance - as the disc heats and cools it expands radially and contracts and as the mounting point is central there is little distortion/coning. Full cast iron disc link the tophat/bell to the friction surface to one side of the friction surface which can lead to coning as they heat/expand and also eventually cracking.
2 piece discs also look cool! though expensive!
So I've already decided I'm getting grooved front and rear discs. So if I can afford it, it would be better to 2 piece on both?
Yes composite discs are better 'in theory' though in the real world on a road car with regular tyres I doubt you'd actually notice any performance benefit!
But they look cool!
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