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Front bulb changes
- Thread starter OLDOILER
- Start date
Sorry, my mistake. I meant sidelight.
Over here in the Netherlands we call them citylights.
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
Replacement for the Astra or the Leon ?!?
I'm changing the Leon, I wanted another Leon on an 11 plate with the 170CR engine,Leather,18's,xenons,winter pack,con pack bla-bla-bla and it was going to be £10k to change. Looking at an Exeo SE Lux 170CR on an 11 plate with all of the stuff I want worked out to £3k to change. It was a no brainer really................
DTUK box, honeycomb grill, LCR splitter and maybe some springs to lower it a little and I reckon I have a much better deal.
andyj
There's no F in Quality..
I think you'll notice a massive difference between the Leon and the Exeo. The build quality/design of the Exeo is a step above the Leon.
Anyway, that's enough thread-hijacking from me
(Sorry Oldoiler )
Got some Can Bus compatible LED DRLs off ebay.
They look awesome, but sadly they still throw up a bulb error.
Search continues
They look awesome, but sadly they still throw up a bulb error.
Search continues
Got some Can Bus compatible LED DRLs off ebay.
They look awesome, but sadly they still throw up a bulb error.
Search continues
When I installed my non-Canbus LED DRLs I placed in parallel a resistor of appr. 22 Ohm / 50 Watt.
You might want to check what the resistance of those Ebay LEDs is.
See my earlier post in this topic: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3486757&postcount=20
I dont suppose you have a pic of the resistor installed. When I remove my bulb its just comes out on the grey socket housing (wire free).
I modified the grey sockets:
At the moment I have 2 resistors of 39 Ohm parallel at each LED which equals a resistor of 19 Ohm. One resistor of 22 Ohm will do it also.
Best is to solder the wires coming from the socket directly to the resistors instead of using connectors has shown in this pic:
My LEDs are from Benzinfabrik.de. After some testing I decided to use the LEDs only.
Result:
At the moment I have 2 resistors of 39 Ohm parallel at each LED which equals a resistor of 19 Ohm. One resistor of 22 Ohm will do it also.
Best is to solder the wires coming from the socket directly to the resistors instead of using connectors has shown in this pic:
My LEDs are from Benzinfabrik.de. After some testing I decided to use the LEDs only.
Result:
Last edited:
Thanks for the detailed images.
I really didnt want to have do additional cabling and then find a place to mount the resistors and be concerned about heat.
Why cant these things just do what they are supposed to
BTW have you then mounted that metal bracket somewhere in the engine bay? Or was just just for testing?
I really didnt want to have do additional cabling and then find a place to mount the resistors and be concerned about heat.
Why cant these things just do what they are supposed to
BTW have you then mounted that metal bracket somewhere in the engine bay? Or was just just for testing?
The aluminium angle bar has 2 purposes:
- extra / better cooling of the resistors
- mounting
At the moment I have mounted the angle bars in the engine bay using ty-raps and double sided tape.
The plan is to go to 1 resistor for each LED instead of the 2 resistors. This will make mounting the angle bars in the engine bay a little more simple.
- extra / better cooling of the resistors
- mounting
At the moment I have mounted the angle bars in the engine bay using ty-raps and double sided tape.
The plan is to go to 1 resistor for each LED instead of the 2 resistors. This will make mounting the angle bars in the engine bay a little more simple.
You would think though, that someone makes a can bus LED DRL that just works though.
I mean most people given the option (who care about style ) would go LED as it looks alot better, and has better functionality.
I mean most people given the option (who care about style
) would go LED as it looks alot better, and has better functionality.
The problem is that with Canbus the resistance has to be low like the old bulbs. LEDs have a high resistance what results in a low current.
By lowering the resistance to say 20 Ohms there's some current going through this resistors and generate some power (Watt). Because of this the resistors cannot be placed on the LEDs itself.
When I started with the DRL LEDs the temperature of the original ceramic resitors became very high, appr. 150 degree Celsius indoor during testing. See picture below.
Due to this high temperature I decided to go for 50W resistors with an aluminium body for cooling. These resistors become appr. 40-50 degree Celsius during driving on a sunny day.
On YouTube I've seen a video where an additional computer fan for cooling the resistors is used. This isn't necessary I think.
The power consumption of my DRL LEDs with resistors is appr. 10W each. The old bulbs were 21W.
By lowering the resistance to say 20 Ohms there's some current going through this resistors and generate some power (Watt). Because of this the resistors cannot be placed on the LEDs itself.
When I started with the DRL LEDs the temperature of the original ceramic resitors became very high, appr. 150 degree Celsius indoor during testing. See picture below.
Due to this high temperature I decided to go for 50W resistors with an aluminium body for cooling. These resistors become appr. 40-50 degree Celsius during driving on a sunny day.
On YouTube I've seen a video where an additional computer fan for cooling the resistors is used. This isn't necessary I think.
The power consumption of my DRL LEDs with resistors is appr. 10W each. The old bulbs were 21W.
If I was to do it I would go with a 50W 6 Ohm RESISTOR.
All I mean is surely an LED bulb is either can bus or not, if its not you need resistors, if it is its built in.
I am just ranting now.
All I mean is surely an LED bulb is either can bus or not, if its not you need resistors, if it is its built in.
I am just ranting now.
Quick (numpty) question which bulbs are the right ones to replace Halogen fronts headlights - is it H1 or H7?
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