Front hub tightening torque & sequence

[Elduncano]

Hi Folks
Does anyone have/could get info on the front hub nut tightening sequence & torque settings for an Ibiza 2016 1.2 TSi (6P5 CJZC).
I am about to replace wheel bearing hub.

I have been searching various forums & workshop manuals, all with conflicting/confusing results.

Thanks in advanced

John

 

[RUM4MO]

Just one question before I look out what torques I used on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS CJZD.

Have you got hold of a Gen2 hub removal/fitting tool kit?

 

[Elduncano]

Hi, thanks for your response.
Yes I have the hub removal tool

 

[RUM4MO]

Okay:-

Front part numbers and torques:- Front Disc Brakes PR – 1ZC FN3 bleed valve 10Nm

TRE nuts 2-off – N 909 429 02 (M12 X 1.5) renew 20Nm+90deg 18mm hex plus 6mm Allen/hex to prevent rotation

Front disc retaining screw – T30 torque ??Nm

Lower swivel nuts 6-off – N 103 320 02 (M10 X 1.25 S/L) renew 40Nm+45deg 16mm hex

Lower swivel to hub carrier nuts 2-off – N 908 088 01 (M12 X 1.5 S/L) renew 20Nm+90deg – not disturbed when replacing the hub bearings

Drive shaft retaining nut – comes in kit renew 50Nm + 45deg 36mm bi-hex

Calliper Guide bolts 30Nm 7mm Allen/hex

Calliper carrier bolts 4-off – N907 085 04 (M12 X 1.5 X 35) clean if reuse 124Nm 18mm hex

Disc back cover bolts – 6-off WHT 005 227 (M6 X 12) 12Nm T30

ARB Drop Links nuts top N 909 081 02 and bottom N 102 613 10 renew 40Nm - not disturbed when replacing the hub bearings, but could make life easier if removed

ABS wheel sensor securing bolts N 014 740 11 M6 X 16mm torque maybe 9Nm 5mm cap head (Allen) hex



ABS wheel sensors:- front RIGHT side VW Group p/n WHT 003 860 Bosch p/n 0 986 594 501, front LEFT side VW Group p/n WHT 003 861 Bosch p/n 0 986 594 501

I hope some of that helps, just be very aware that even if you increase the cut out on these tools that is meant to allow it to clear the ABS sensor - if the rear of that hub is heavily rusted up, like my RHS one was, then the ABS sensor will get bent over and cracked, so should be replaced even if it continues to work for a short time. Removing these ABS sensors can be very tricky as they have a "waisted" section down their length that is inserted down into the hole in the hub, that allows rust to build up so effectively locks them in place - until you have moved them about enough to break up that rust. From what I remember, VW Group, in their official workshop manuals (ErWin), tend to consider these ABS sensors as "no hopers" so wasting time trying to save them is a waste of time. I got off with replacing the LHS but wrecked the RHS ABS sensor. The factory fitted brand of ABS sensor is TRW which is logical as the front brakes are TRW, I made sure that I bought a Bosch branded one from ECP because I thought that as the ABS controller is Bosch then so will all the other parts, I was wrong! Remember to use plenty of grease on the thread and nut of the lead screw! Good luck, I just bought 2 F-A-G branded hub kist from AutoDoc as I really could not tell which side was noisy, when I removed and checked both sides I could not work out which one had been causing this noise, though the RHS had suffered slightly from water ingress.

I had both sides of this car up on jack stands.

 

[RUM4MO]

If you were initially referring to the different ways of tightening/torques between SEAT and at least VW, then yes, I first came across that while working on a 2009 Ibiza using the workshop manual for a similar age/version of VW Polo, stupid really for a group like VW Group to use same items at factory, but seem to still be selling slightly different parts - some nuts for instance, as spare parts, than another marque from that group do, crazy.

 

[Elduncano]

Okay:-

Front part numbers and torques:- Front Disc Brakes PR – 1ZC FN3 bleed valve 10Nm

TRE nuts 2-off – N 909 429 02 (M12 X 1.5) renew 20Nm+90deg 18mm hex plus 6mm Allen/hex to prevent rotation

Front disc retaining screw – T30 torque ??Nm

Lower swivel nuts 6-off – N 103 320 02 (M10 X 1.25 S/L) renew 40Nm+45deg 16mm hex

Lower swivel to hub carrier nuts 2-off – N 908 088 01 (M12 X 1.5 S/L) renew 20Nm+90deg – not disturbed when replacing the hub bearings

Drive shaft retaining nut – comes in kit renew 50Nm + 45deg 36mm bi-hex

Calliper Guide bolts 30Nm 7mm Allen/hex

Calliper carrier bolts 4-off – N907 085 04 (M12 X 1.5 X 35) clean if reuse 124Nm 18mm hex

Disc back cover bolts – 6-off WHT 005 227 (M6 X 12) 12Nm T27

ARB Drop Links nuts top N 909 081 02 and bottom N 102 613 10 renew 40Nm - not disturbed when replacing the hub bearings, but could make life easier if removed

ABS wheel sensor securing bolts N 014 740 11 M6 X 16mm torque maybe 9Nm 5mm cap head (Allen) hex



ABS wheel sensors:- front RIGHT side VW Group p/n WHT 003 860 Bosch p/n 0 986 594 501, front LEFT side VW Group p/n WHT 003 861 Bosch p/n 0 986 594 501

I hope some of that helps, just be very aware that even if you increase the cut out on these tools that is meant to allow it to clear the ABS sensor - if the rear of that hub is heavily rusted up, like my RHS one was, then the ABS sensor will get bent over and cracked, so should be replaced even if it continues to work for a short time. Removing these ABS sensors can be very tricky as they have a "waisted" section down their length that is inserted down into the hole in the hub, that allows rust to build up so effectively locks them in place - until you have moved them about enough to break up that rust. From what I remember, VW Group, in their official workshop manuals (ErWin), tend to consider these ABS sensors as "no hopers" so wasting time trying to save them is a waste of time. I got off with replacing the LHS but wrecked the RHS ABS sensor. The factory fitted brand of ABS sensor is TRW which is logical as the front brakes are TRW, I made sure that I bought a Bosch branded one from ECP because I thought that as the ABS controller is Bosch then so will all the other parts, I was wrong! Remember to use plenty of grease on the thread and nut of the lead screw! Good luck, I just bought 2 F-A-G branded hub kist from AutoDoc as I really could not tell which side was noisy, when I removed and checked both sides I could not work out which one had been causing this noise, though the RHS had suffered slightly from water ingress.

I had both sides of this car up on jack stands.

If you were initially referring to the different ways of tightening/torques between SEAT and at least VW, then yes, I first came across that while working on a 2009 Ibiza using the workshop manual for a similar age/version of VW Polo, stupid really for a group like VW Group to use same items at factory, but seem to still be selling slightly different parts - some nuts for instance, as spare parts, than another marque from that group do, crazy.

Yes, agreed!

 

[Elduncano]

Many thanks for your comprehensive response, very much appreciated.

I have FAG bearing and both splash plates coming from Autodoc, thought I would treat it to brake disc splash shields while I am in there doing discs & pads.
The shields are hanging by a thread with all the salt etc. in Lanarkshire.

I will try my luck with the ABS sensor and see how I go, prob end up like yourself picking a replacement from ECP or somewhere.
Sacrificial fittings we love...not.

So for now, waiting for my delivery........

 

[RUM4MO]

One of the splash guard screws ended up being hidden behind the hub, so I had to place the correct short bit in there and sort of wedged it into the screw head using a large screwdriver blade, then used an adjustable spanner to turn that screw on both sides.
These screws are quite tight, but their threads were all clean, it is just the rust around the screw heads that makes them feel very tight.
I just bought maybe 6 from my local Audi dealer, I was directed there from my local Skoda dealership who is easy to get to and so that parts department is where I buy and order in anything I need - though obviously that only works for common parts across the marques.
The splash guards on that 2015 VW Polo, in August 2022, were still okayish, so I just attacked them quickly with an angle grinder with a wire brush on it and used up some old satin finish Hammerite.

Edit:- that Polo is coming up for needing its rear bump stops replacing, I've bought them from Skoda £85 for them and all the "should be" replaced bolts and nuts - that was a bit more than I expected, also the exhaust joining sleeve must be due soon as well, both these issues are common for these cars at 8 years old.

 

[RUM4MO]

I've checked some new not used disc splash guard bolts I still have, and they have T30 heads on them, not the T27 that I said on that earlier posting, maybe as they were rusted up I guessed T27 when in reality they were T30.

I've edited that earlier posting.

 

[Elduncano]

Thanks again and for interesting reading.
I got all 6 studs removed from my guards, bit of WD, hammering in a really tight torx, bit of heat and gentle "persuasion" until they "cracked" loose.
Real gentle as the heads of the studs were so soft.

Wow, you routinely replacing bump stops and flexi what a guy
My 'to do list' has a bit ahead of it before I get to that

My back box outer skin is deteriorating, might peel the skin off and leave until needing a replacent, or if I find steel, re-line it as others have done on YouTube.

Also, my heat shield is loose, my plan is to use aluminium beer can base over the studs to refix, will get to that when I have my 'oavis' on doing the bearing, when they eventually arrive....
I am going to try putting the bearing in the freezer before install, controversial I know but every little will help when pressing in.

Hope your bumps and flexi is easy, I done the front springs last year and they were a doddle,

🫡

 

[RUM4MO]

Yes, the material that VW Group uses to manufacture these rear bumps stops - and they are exactly the same part number has they have been since the Skoda Fabia was first introduced back in maybe late 1999/2000, start off life looking pure white, as soon as they start aging and get exposed to UV light, they start heading towards yellow>orange>brown and by then they start to really harden up - ie going "crispy" and as the rear damper piston sleeve has a sharp edge, and it gets pushed onto and so located over these rear bump stops, they help to start cutting into/through that bump stop material, they start to crack and flex and just shear off and drop down, so this time my plan is to get in there just before that happens, that gives me a chance to check if the rear dampers are still "dampers", so all good. The solid, not flexi joining sleeve is just another of these VW Group things that rots out/off by 8 or 9 years, well at least up North where salt is used on the roads - as you know!

The front front springs etc I did on one of these small VW Group cars, was my wife's 2002 VW Polo when it was just over 5 years old - one spring broke at half height on New Years Day - charming, that added a bit into the challenge of finding new tools that working on VW Group cars forces you to buy. Before this spring failure, I had only ever worked on Ford and a single VX Cav GSI 4X4, ending up needing to fight all the way taking that Polo to bits shocked me! I needed to do that job maybe 6 years latter when a single top mounting bearing failed - I had replaced both top mounting and bearings the first time, very annoying! Next spring broke when I was looking after my older daughter's 2009 Ibiza SC 1.4, it failed again maybe at the almost 6 year mark, this time in warmer weather BUT while my wife and I were driving to the airport going on holiday, I stopped, turned round to check and pick up the broken off part, was happy enough that the car was still sitting high enough at the front, and continued to the airport. The third spring was on my old 2000 Passat 4Motion, that one snapped just outside Oxford as we were travelling down to near M-K for my sister's funeral - cars can chose the worst time to give trouble! That time, after the funeral had passed, I phoned the AA and they made it clear from the time the guy showed up, that he ws going to sort this out ASAP and on the driveway, that was convenient and worked out okay!

Heat shields, I bought a few of these circular retainers and made up maybe 10 repair discs from maybe steel food tins, drilling a hole in the centre and dishing them as it seemed like that was a good idea.

Which Gen2 bearing tool kit did you buy - a cheap China made one from ebay? The bearing is best lightly greased after cleaning up the hole in the hub right to the back and tends to pull in very easily, so no need to bother freezing it. I'm guessing that you have studied YouTube videos on this until you have become cross eyed, it all helps I suppose. I played safe and guessed that the kit that I bought was just a copy of a "better" kit, so I looked for the same kit on the Sealey website, and bought a set of forcing pins as I had read that they were possibly the weakest part of these cheap kits, and I used these forcing pins - so I can't comment on how "good" the pins supplied with that kit are - I just didn't fancy ending up with a seized/jammed bearing stuck half in - half out, of the hub.

One other comment that I noticed when I read through my comments about using this tool - just in case I needed to use it in the future, after unbolting the 3 bolts - or maybe nuts to drop the lower arm so that you can remove the drive shaft, reconnect it as having it back in place while you "winding in/up" this Gen2 tool kit, can only be useful - I added in to disconnect the droplink as doing that must make "parking" the driveshaft easier, just things that you learn after doing this job.

 

[Elduncano]

Wow Rum4mo!

Cannot thank you enough for spending time replying & providing interesting reading.
Sad as i am, really enjoyed reading through your experience & tips.
I forgot about the drop link, I have hit & miss experience with them, some end up getting cut off & renewed!
Lets see how the Ibiza behaves...

I have been lucky with springs in the past, done a few now I come to think about it.
Had a Cavalier with both front springs broken for months before I got round to them, prob most memorable was my sons mini front broke into the runflat tyre ripping it appart.
Recovery from Loch lommond back to his Dads house for a quick repair and new tyre.

The bearing kit I got is a cheaper spec, prob chinese made.
My plan is to treat it slowly, delicately and let it ease into its designed usage.
You will probably hear my tourettes if it bends/breaks. If so, I have yet another test of my innovative skills & tricks to get over that hurdle.

I will keep you posted, whenever the parts come....