green pannel filter on petrol fr

[luke c]

Done a search and cant find any threads on green pannel filters on petrol models . what can i expect just swapping standard to the green not bothered about performance more interested in increasing the tubo noise will the filter help .

 

[rashcupra]

there is tons on this IM SURE but anyway when i had a standard ko3s i got loads of turbo noise from doing the following

bypassing the n279valve
forge recirculating valve
forge tip
smoothed airbox, modded inlet, remove the trumpet in the top half of airbox
green pannel filter

this really does make it breathe loads sound alot loader too but icant temp you more to purchase a milltek sports cat and downpipe it can be twinned with your standard rear system till you have the cash to uprate the rest of the system but i bought it for £280 then when i put ihi on this didnt fit anymore so had to get a custom 3" de cat pipe so im selling a sports 100cell cat for 170 if your interested this makes the turbo breathe more spool up earlier and sounds loads loader!

 

[luke c]

what is the dirrence with just the air filter on

 

[Yella Beeza]

With the panel filter alone, not a lot. It fits inside the airbox so don't expect much of an increase.

You'll need to do as rashcupra suggests - get a Cupra intake pipe and remove the flap on the adapter on the front panel that attaches to the end of the pipe. Plus modify the inside of the airbox.

 

[rashcupra]

bypassing the n279 valve makes a huge diffrence but ul need a forge 007 to do this aswell! as the standard recirculating valve will blow to bits!

with just a green pannel filter you wont notice it in a releistic world!

 

[luke c]

thanks for the info might give it a miss and just save up for the remap

 

[rashcupra]

oh it is worth it asit breathes better and you dont have to replace it just clean/oil it but remap is a great mod!

 

[cuprakel]

i havent done any smoothing or chopping just replaced the filter. im pretty sure mine has an improved tone (unless im imagining it!), its not louder, just a bit smoother sounding if that makes sense, and for about £40 id say its worth it. the standard seat one is a heap of junk! and everything rash says is also more reason(s)^^^^^^ get one!

 

[Adam*FR*]

just got a forge split-r does any1 know if bypassing the n279 valve will make it louder haven`t got it bk yet

 

[Nath.]

green filter and cupra intake on my FR petrol and the sound is batter, A little wistle under load

 

[rashcupra]

yes bypassing the n279 valve will make it loader try a search i think it on like page 7 on gaz joneses thread on the pd160 air intake thread

 

[Adam*FR*]

nice 1 rash

 

[gazjones]

makes bit of difference just the filter but as said best to get cupra intake and smooth the inside of the airbox out to get a smooth air flow to the turbo. i actually found the best turbo whistle was when on standard map. as i think the wastegate is venting more to keep the boost lower compaired to remapped. reminds me get pannel filter for r32 anyone think it will sound better!

 

[rashcupra]

yer should do gaz!

 

[Nath.]

hey Rash, what's with this n279 valve bypass trick ?

I did a search and came up with nothin'

 

[rashcupra]

il try and finf it hang on

 

[rashcupra]

cant find it now maybe gaz can remember where we spoke about it maybe it was over p.m anyways heres a few pics that may help

i noticed a diffrence in sound personnaly

 

[gazjones]

page two of my timeline thread i think ill look for it

 

[gazjones]

you have two pies coimnig off the top of the inlet manifold, one goes to the fuel pressure reg ( round brass thing) the other goes into a t piece. the pipe coming off the t piece goes into the n249 valve. this valve also has other pipe going in the back. and one coming out of it to the dv. remove the pipe going to the dv at the n249 and remove the pipe going to the 249 from the t piece join these with conetcor in line sort. thats the first bit, this way saves removing pipes from t peice i brok my t pice trying to this lol.
next bit is to run a pipe from the back of the non return valve, this is located just after the t piece, this valve has a pipe going into a right angle conector remove the pipe from the right angle conector and get some new vac hose and another connector, then you will see another valve like the 249 at the back of the engine bay. remove the hose that joines into the frame of pipe that connects to the vac chamber. and attach hose from the connetor you installed on to this
sounds complicated but if you look at the pics of my red hosing you will se what im meaning

thats what i wrote in page 3 on my timeline thread