download the pdf manual from LEE69 on here, and have a look at the oil pressure section. It says that an audible alarm should sound at engine speeds above 1500rpm as while as the light being lit/flashing as a warning not to drive it! So if that was happening the mechanic shouldn't have even driven it. Plus surely the oil light must be red not amber, or are the LCR lights different from my LC180?
help guys..what should i do about this?
- Thread starter rideonracing
- Start date
hmmm...not sure how i would do that?? im possitive amber oil light means oil low, and red light means no oil or oil pressure problem. The amber light was only on when he started it up, and first thing he done was checked the dipstick. and because the oil level was fine he took it out.
Pop down to trading standards and explain the situation, Will probably reduce your headache mate. Maybe name and shame as they have driven your car without permission, see if anyone else has had bother from them
I don't know if I'm reading this right but from what you have said you dropped it off all fine....they started it them oil light, he checks oil and level is ok so takes it a drive....on said drive the car warns again of oil level/pressure?? Car cuts out due to busted rod etc...towed back to find hole in sump/case??
If the above is correct then the damage has occurred due to malpractice and or neglect of his duties as a mechanic....he/they cannot assume that because the levels are correct that the car does not have an underlying oil level/pressure fault and he has taken it out anyway.....whilst the car is in his care and on his test run the rod has gone....therefore they are liable FULLSTOP!
Same if he were to crash it on a test run....they would be liable....
Approach them and explain this to them in a polite manner and advise them that you want the car remedied....if they refuse contact cab, a solicitor and trading standards....
If the above is correct then the damage has occurred due to malpractice and or neglect of his duties as a mechanic....he/they cannot assume that because the levels are correct that the car does not have an underlying oil level/pressure fault and he has taken it out anyway.....whilst the car is in his care and on his test run the rod has gone....therefore they are liable FULLSTOP!
Same if he were to crash it on a test run....they would be liable....
Approach them and explain this to them in a polite manner and advise them that you want the car remedied....if they refuse contact cab, a solicitor and trading standards....
Pyro
Guest
mechanic - oh oil light better check the level is ok..... yuo that's o,k then were fine there's no other possibly that this light on the dash could mean something else like a fault with the engine............................................ 
what he should of done - oh oil light, better check the level is ok........... yup the levels fine
why is there a light on then maybe i should run it the dig machine and see if there's any faults still better not drive it with an unknown fault and ill ring pete and tell him the situation and see if he would like us to investigate as to why this light is before he drives it, just encase.
there fault there mechanics are thick as ****!
what he should of done - oh oil light, better check the level is ok........... yup the levels fine
why is there a light on then maybe i should run it the dig machine and see if there's any faults still better not drive it with an unknown fault and ill ring pete and tell him the situation and see if he would like us to investigate as to why this light is before he drives it, just encase.there fault there mechanics are thick as ****!
I agree with the above statements,
If a customer bought a jet engine into work with a problem, excessive oil consumption for example, we would not just top up the oil and take the engine for a run, we would try to find the cause first, and use a function test as a last resort. This is the same with a car, you dont just top it up, without finding out why it was low. Yes I know some people forget to check oil, but not everyone does, so you would expect them to ask when you last topped it up before adding oil.
IMO its not an acceptable way of running things regardless of what underlying issues there may have been with the car, or how it was brought to them.
Also, to put a rod through the block, you would have to be giving it some abuse, otherwise it would have bent/snapped and stopped dead.
If a customer bought a jet engine into work with a problem, excessive oil consumption for example, we would not just top up the oil and take the engine for a run, we would try to find the cause first, and use a function test as a last resort. This is the same with a car, you dont just top it up, without finding out why it was low. Yes I know some people forget to check oil, but not everyone does, so you would expect them to ask when you last topped it up before adding oil.
IMO its not an acceptable way of running things regardless of what underlying issues there may have been with the car, or how it was brought to them.
Also, to put a rod through the block, you would have to be giving it some abuse, otherwise it would have bent/snapped and stopped dead.
yeh thats what iv been thinking.. hes trying to make it out its my fault saying the amber light is an oil pressure light and this is where noise has been coming from. I told him 'im not stupid' the noise was coming from front passenger wheel ONLY when i go round a round-about, then he said to me well u may have gone round a sharp corner and oil would flow over to other side of sump and cause the oil pick up pipe to stop picking up oil!!! lol!!! hes only saying this to stop his knuckles from being wrapped for fu**ing a car up! iv bought a new engine for £700 engine code AUQ. just waiting on delivery. Another thing im going to say to him is "Gentlemans Agreement - You bent it, You snap it, You break it...YOU PAY IT!!"
When he showed me the conrod, it was in two bits, bent and all other 3 rods are bent aswell and im sure i seen a small chip out the bottom of a piston. one of his excuses was "it could have been oil starvation" yet when he showed me the broken rod, the bearing on it was as smooth as hell! no scratches or nothing...
When he showed me the conrod, it was in two bits, bent and all other 3 rods are bent aswell and im sure i seen a small chip out the bottom of a piston. one of his excuses was "it could have been oil starvation" yet when he showed me the broken rod, the bearing on it was as smooth as hell! no scratches or nothing...
I think it's just an engine failure. New engines have had conrods snap under low load, not always ragged to fail.
I'd suggest he puts the new engine in foc
I'd suggest he puts the new engine in foc
i was going to say that... but how do i go about saying this to him? im scard incase he turns round to me and said NO, if ur not happy get some1 else to fix it, when my car is lying in there garage in bits!
you say you were told the mechanic took the car along a bumpy road which makes any noises from suspension 'hearable' within 5mins of being out on road test this happened so he had to be towed back in to the garage.'
sounds to me as if the mechanic in question took it down some nasty bumpy roads at speed not realising just how bad the LCR is with clearance issues over speed bumps and road gradients and hes ended up smashing the sump and damaging the engine along with it,
pretty sure the damage has been caused by hitting something rather than the engine just giving out
sounds to me as if the mechanic in question took it down some nasty bumpy roads at speed not realising just how bad the LCR is with clearance issues over speed bumps and road gradients and hes ended up smashing the sump and damaging the engine along with it,
pretty sure the damage has been caused by hitting something rather than the engine just giving out
Last edited:
my engine should still be 225bhp as im using my own ECU and same turbo.. its only internals wich are diferent. im jst wanting my leon back on the road and if i went the road of making them pay for a BAM unit, i think id be waiting months for it to b finalized...
yeh iv already spoke to seat about this as i thought the exact same thing. U can use any 20v block and use ur own ecu, turbo, manifolds, injectors etc and this will giv u the power of the 225bhp. Its jst the internals that are different, the block itself and all mounting points are the exact same.
Similar threads
