Help needed, car is undrivable

[Kyle2712]

So car is a 2005 Leon cupra r stage 1 remap badger 5, silicone tip just the standard mods for stage 1.
Went to drive car yesterday as soon as I accelerated and the turbo started to boost it was like someone slammed the brakes on almost like the traction control cut the power. The traction control was turned off for clarification. The car is un drivable. When idling any sort of revs upto 3k rpm just bog down and the dv (forge 007) opens, if trying to hold revs at around 2k the dv will open and the revs spike up to around 3k. I’ve checked the best I can and cannot feel of hear any boost leaks. I have taken the dv off and checked it’s not leaking and that’s all good. If anybody has any idea what could cause this help would be great. I plugged into a standard obd2 but no codes were found.

 

[bruceR]

Sounds like limp mode but if you’ve no codes then I’m no sure


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[Kyle2712]

Sounds like limp mode but if you’ve no codes then I’m no sure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I scanned with obd2 no codes come up, also no lights on dash it’s really hard to explain it idles perfectly but as soon as you give it any revs it’s almost like it’s not getting enough fuel it drives completely fine when reversing but as soon as you start to accelerate and the turbo starts to boost it just shuts power almost like someone has slammed the brakes on and then it will be okay for a few seconds and then like someone has slammed the brakes on. I have not found anybody with this problem after hours of searching so I’m really stumped.

 

[Alexis27]

You want to avoid throwing parts at it but it's tricky when you have no codes and don't know where to start.

Revs jumping and sudden cut in power is a symptom of a failing fuel pump. Does it ever stall?

 

[Kyle2712]

I scanned with obd2 no codes come up, also no lights on dash it’s really hard to explain it idles perfectly but as soon as you give it any revs it’s almost like it’s not getting enough fuel it drives completely fine when reversing but as soon as you start to accelerate and the turbo starts to boost it just shuts power almost like someone has slammed the brakes on and then it will be okay for a few seconds and then like someone has slammed the brakes on. I have not found anybody with this problem after hours of searching so I’m really stumped.

You want to avoid throwing parts at it but it's tricky when you have no codes and don't know where to start.

Revs jumping and sudden cut in power is a symptom of a failing fuel pump. Does it ever stall?

Yeah that’s my worry I don’t want to be throwing parts at it, it never stalls, drives perfect in reverse and idles perfectly one of the inly
Other ways I can describe it is like the car is just dumping boost as soon as the turbo starts to kick in even when accelerating, if I hold revs when stationary at around 2k the dv whoosh and revs spike to around 3k, honestly it’s so hard to try and describe it.

 

[DR-Smith]

I'm experiencing some of these issues as well mate, I've been having issues with start up too though so it's hard to tell if I have 2 separate faults or if the start up issue is also causing the issue, have you checked for any vacuum leaks?

I have been having issues with start up code reader is saying P0322 and P0312 which according to Google is crank/camshaft position sensor but I've just replaced both just to be sure and the bloody thing is still flashing up

I did notice however that the vac hose coming off the top of my Recirculation Valve was split a little bit so that may explain some driving issues I've been having. May also be your issue?

 

[Kyle2712]

I'm experiencing some of these issues as well mate, I've been having issues with start up too though so it's hard to tell if I have 2 separate faults or if the start up issue is also causing the issue, have you checked for any vacuum leaks?

I have been having issues with start up code reader is saying P0322 and P0312 which according to Google is crank/camshaft position sensor but I've just replaced both just to be sure and the bloody thing is still flashing up

I did notice however that the vac hose coming off the top of my Recirculation Valve was split a little bit so that may explain some driving issues I've been having. May also be your issue?

I’m fairly certain it isn’t a vac leak as I have a boost gauge just as soon as turbo kicks in it just cuts DV whooshes and that’s it it’s literally like turbo spools and someone slams the brakes on like driving a whooshing kangaroo

 

[DR-Smith]

Yeah I know what you mean mate I've also got that too. I'm stumped too tbh. I might try smoke test in my intercooler piping next

 

[Kyle2712]

Yeah I know what you mean mate I've also got that too. I'm stumped too tbh. I might try smoke test in my intercooler piping next

I still haven't solved my problem fully I have changed so many parts. Car eventually gave me codes for misfires I did a boost leak with a tyre compressor I just split the pipe work into sections and blocked off the ends I did tip to charge pipe which held pressure then I did intercooler to charge pipe hose to throttle body and found a hole in intercooler cross tube think that was an issue that isn’t helping but I don’t think that’s the primary cause of my problems only thing I have left to try on cylinders now is to clean and service the injectors.

 

[Nam-uk]

I still haven't solved my problem fully I have changed so many parts. Car eventually gave me codes for misfires I did a boost leak with a tyre compressor I just split the pipe work into sections and blocked off the ends I did tip to charge pipe which held pressure then I did intercooler to charge pipe hose to throttle body and found a hole in intercooler cross tube think that was an issue that isn’t helping but I don’t think that’s the primary cause of my problems only thing I have left to try on cylinders now is to clean and service the injectors.

not sure if your diesel but before having the injectors serviced try this or both its very good noticed a big difference its allot better than the older additives off the shelves as some have Alcohol in them and that does zero to modern fuels and injection systems,
The DPB-100 has polyetheramine in it and that's a very good cleaner, also they both go along way due to you Dilute it unlike one bottle per tank

HYDRA DPB-100: Cetane Booster + Lubricants + Detergents

Best Price for Diesel Additive | Diesel Additive| Cleaning Diesel Injectors | Fuel Injector Cleaner | Turbo Diesel Cleaner | EGR Valve Cleaner Diesel | 500ml treats 750L |

www.hydra-int.com

This is what is in premium fuels

HYDRA EHN-99: Cetane Booster

Cetane Booster Diesel | 2-EHN | 2-ethylhexyl nitrate |1 litre treats 1,000L | Best Price | Same Day Dispatch | Diesel Additive | Fuel Additive

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If your not diesel id defiantly try the petrol version just off what I've experienced

​

 

[Kyle2712]

not sure if your diesel but before having the injectors serviced try this or both its very good noticed a big difference its allot better than the older additives off the shelves as some have Alcohol in them and that does zero to modern fuels and injection systems,
The DPB-100 has polyetheramine in it and that's a very good cleaner, also they both go along way due to you Dilute it unlike one bottle per tank

HYDRA DPB-100: Cetane Booster + Lubricants + Detergents

Best Price for Diesel Additive | Diesel Additive| Cleaning Diesel Injectors | Fuel Injector Cleaner | Turbo Diesel Cleaner | EGR Valve Cleaner Diesel | 500ml treats 750L |

www.hydra-int.com

This is what is in premium fuels

HYDRA EHN-99: Cetane Booster

Cetane Booster Diesel | 2-EHN | 2-ethylhexyl nitrate |1 litre treats 1,000L | Best Price | Same Day Dispatch | Diesel Additive | Fuel Additive

www.hydra-int.com

If your not diesel id defiantly try the petrol version just off what I've experienced

​

Ill give it a go, thanks mate

 

[Nam-uk]

Ill give it a go, thanks mate

np, if that does help change the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed or change it before hand, also the air filter can effect limp mode if that's not been changed as they like free flowing air the more the better, what fuel are you using?

 

[Kyle2712]

np, if that does help change the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed or change it before hand, also the air filter can effect limp mode if that's not been changed as they like free flowing air the more the better, what fuel are you using?

Yeah I’ve already changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter and I either use shell v power or if I must I’ll use Tesco momentum

 

[Kyle2712]

np, if that does help change the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed or change it before hand, also the air filter can effect limp mode if that's not been changed as they like free flowing air the more the better, what fuel are you using?

I purchased a cheap vag com cable yesterday and scanned this morning (maybe found the issue

 

[Nam-uk]

Yeah I’ve already changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter and I either use shell v power or if I must I’ll use Tesco momentum

If you been using that regular id be surprised injectors will be blocking

 

[Nam-uk]

I purchased a cheap vag com cable yesterday and scanned this morning (maybe found the issue

That sensor should not be all that expensive

 

[Kyle2712]

I purchased a cheap vag com cable yesterday and scanned this morning (maybe found the issue

That sensor should not be all that expensive

Well it’s been very annoying, firstly thought yes I’ll change the map sensor and hope that’s it. Trying to take the sensor out the screws just spinning, other one was seized on and eventually snapped so had to drill them out and whilst drilling bolts out the map sensor pipe itself decided to break, hunted around for a map sensor pipe and cannot find one for sale at all apparently £200 from seat, saw someone else post the price. So went on eBay and every single map sensor pipe comes with the map sensor still attached. I’m going to assume they are notorious for not coming off very easily so people just leave them. Bought one of those with map sensor attached hopefully it works.

 

[Nam-uk]

Well it’s been very annoying, firstly thought yes I’ll change the map sensor and hope that’s it. Trying to take the sensor out the screws just spinning, other one was seized on and eventually snapped so had to drill them out and whilst drilling bolts out the map sensor pipe itself decided to break, hunted around for a map sensor pipe and cannot find one for sale at all apparently £200 from seat, saw someone else post the price. So went on eBay and every single map sensor pipe comes with the map sensor still attached. I’m going to assume they are notorious for not coming off very easily so people just leave them. Bought one of those with map sensor attached hopefully it works.

not surprised at that price, i changed the clutch pully on mine found the exact same INI pulley for £24 at seat they want £167 that's an expensive box lol, last i was told the locks were £267 the after markets or repair the original are allot cheaper, some sensors your ok going good branded makes but its that maf you need the same Bosch maf or it can cause havoc if its not, have you got the part number you searched?

 

[Kyle2712]

not surprised at that price, i changed the clutch pully on mine found the exact same INI pulley for £24 at seat they want £167 that's an expensive box lol, last i was told the locks were £267 the after markets or repair the original are allot cheaper, some sensors your ok going good branded makes but its that maf you need the same Bosch maf or it can cause havoc if its not, have you got the part number you searched?

I took a picture of it