If your EGR is stuck open by some buildup of carbonised crud (TM) then it could still be causing limp mode. I would say the next step is to disconnect the boost hose from the EGR valve housing and have a look to see how bad the crud buildup is. Then clean the EGR and perhaps the inlet manifold as well, taking them off the car to do it.

The other suspect for limp mode is sticky turbo vanes. But you said earlier that they had been cleaned.

About all that's left is the actuator or the N75 valve itself. You can see if the actuator is free to move by getting under the car and trying to move it by hand.
 
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No EGR function. No exhaust gas will be recirculated to the inlet. Increased NOx emissions at certain throttle openings - not a lot. NOx is not measured at MOT and isn't likely to be for a while, it's hard to do. Peak combustion temperatures will rise - these are transient. Much less soot production. Improved fuel economy.
 
So all in n18 isn't really required, just a quicky, if I was to put a blanking plate on the egr or something, will this possibly sort my boost issue, if the egr is causing it even at bottom end?

Are there any guides on how to blank the egr out?
 
I had a look underneath the other day at the intake, and the bottom end egr, I didn't pull nothing but it's clear there absolutly caked in oil, carbon shite, it's that bad that it's actually flicked on to my radiator and across all the bottom guards, gonna disconnect Monday and clean out the crap see if that helps, as for egr blanking or deleting any good guides?
 
The inlet system gets oily from the crankcase fumes fed in by the PCV system. The oil pools in the lower pipe runs and leaks out of all the joints.

The EGR function can be turned down to practically nothing using VCDS - this has the advantage that the EML will not be triggered.

Otherwise, disconnect the EGR pipe from underneath the valve, trace the gasket and make up a blanking plate. Completely blanking the EGR will often set the EML off, and you can buy a blanking plate that has a small hole in it which avoids setting off the EML.
 
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You could probably just pull the pipe off the top of the egr and plug it on that one, I'm on a 2001 plate golf and don't get the light on for that.

Also I take you mean it's leaking a bit at the intercooler? The egr is the thing attached to the intake manifold.

Mine's leaking a bit and is also caked but I think a radiator repair man could reseal that.

Carinbits006.jpg
 
Where can I get the blanking plates from it seems eBay has one but its sealed ?

And yeah the intake at the Front is leaking as well as the pipes all ye way through well caked in oil and splashing everywhere

It needs resealing? I just thought it was all jubile, and tension clips?
 
I've never looked, I use VCDS. I seem to remember that the tuning companies do them, maybe Darkside Developments and/or Awesome GTI?
 
Yeh it is tension clips on the ALH, are you saying that all the joins are leaking?

And what do you mean ebay has one but it's sealed?
 
Yeah all the joints and stuff are leaking it's pretty much all caked so it's hard to tell ATM but joints are suspect

And also the blanking plates are solid there's no holes to stop the eml alerting, only holes are the two bolt holes...
 
Lol the clue's in the name, blanking plate? They're for blanking off the flow to the egr.


Have you tried pulling the vac pipe of the egr and plugging it? If you do that and don't get a light on then you're fine with the blanking plate. The earlier cars didn't have the warning, my 2001 golf doesn't.
 
Ok I'll give that a quick blast, I didn't try it as I done the n18 test instead but I'll do that and check for the light,

So once all the intake manifold is cleaned and stuff, if the problem still occurs, what should I try next?
 
Ok I went on the motor way today, I never got chance to clean my intake out btw, but I unplugged the n18 again and give it a nice steady cruise down the motor way for about 130 miles, and noticed that I could push my turbo without it cutting out

I'm insure what its going to be doing tomorrow but could this be a clue to my problem??
 
If the only change you've made is to disable the EGR, I'd say it points the finger firmly at your EGR valve sticking part-open. With the N18 disconnected the valve will stay shut.
 
Well I'd previously did this test and there was really no improvement only performance, it was still limping out, but since that motor way drive it seems a little better, I'm really at my witts with it