Immobiliser/Electrical Fault

Feb 19, 2023
12
1
Hi all!

Unfortunately, I have been having an Immobiliser issue with my Seat Leon Cupra 1.8T 52' (around 95,000 miles on the clock)

The car will not start, it sparks, boots up then shuts down after a second. This is due to the orange immobiliser light coming on and blocking the ECU, resulting in the car not being able to start.

Things I have tried are as follows...
- Checking any broken connections on the Gauge Cluster (all connectors flowing and soldering in reasonable form)
- Had a specialist come to program a new key - could not be programmed and was attempted with several different laptops, therefore seems the issue is with the car rather than the key transponder (I have a key-cover which gives me this service for free!)

From reading previous threads, the above attempts to resolve this issue seem to cross off some common causes of the fault. It is worth noting that the car has had some damp in it as the car got flooded whilst I went on holiday. The seals have been replaced and the car has been dehumidified, however it is looking like an electrical fault has developed since. However, there has not been any other noticeable electrical faults/glitches.

At the moment I am in a position where I do not know where the electrical fault will lie, either on the ECU side, Immobiliser side or somewhere in between! Professional investigation on VAG electrical faults can be very pricey in London and will not always guarantee a fix. The car is mechanically sound and I would love to get her back up and running again!

Also, I wouldn't mind getting some thoughts on disconnecting the immobiliser to get her up and running (until I can find a sustainable fix!) - or whether this would even get the car running! Leaving the car on for a few minutes and disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will get her started up but is far from an actual fix, therefore can be excluded from this thread :)

Cheers in advance for any advice!
Ivaan
 
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mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
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You need vcds to get to the bottom of it really, The most obvious thing would be a fault in the coil connected to the ignition barrel, that is what reads the signal from the key. If you remove the lower steering column plastic cover, you should be able to see the wiring connector. Worth unplugging and cleaning with contact cleaner.
Other than that you can do what Alexis said, and either buy an immo off ECU, or send yours away and have it removed
 
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Reactions: BadBoy03
Feb 19, 2023
12
1
Hey guys, thanks for your advice here. I think I may actually check out the ignition coil @mty12345 as i've heard quite a few people mention this - could be worth giving as it sounds quite accessible.
Immo delete definitely looks like a solution though!
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,768
475
bristol
Hey guys, thanks for your advice here. I think I may actually check out the ignition coil @mty12345 as i've heard quite a few people mention this - could be worth giving as it sounds quite accessible.
Immo delete definitely looks like a solution though!
If you unplug the coil, i think it should measure around 25 ohms of resistance. try moving the wires around while measuring and seeing if you have a loose connection. If the coil is ok then get some isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud and clean both halves of the connector. Failing that then IMMO delete would probably be the best option. Let us know how you get on.
 
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Reactions: N4GE
Feb 19, 2023
12
1
Thanks for the help guys, had to resolve the issue by buying an ECU immo delete which sparks her up. Still get the immo warning light but that can be silenced also..
 
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