B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
IMG_20200222_121336.jpg
 

mty12345

Active Member
Jun 17, 2011
3,727
450
bristol
They look in nice condition. Depends if you want to go to the hassle of fitting the looms I guess. Unless you're doing it yourself then it's gonna be expensive in terms of labour.
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Yeah got lucky with them..... So there's a good chance looms won't be hidden in there anywhere?
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Hey folks, hope everyone is safe and well.
Sorry haven't been back for a while..

I have a question about these leccy front seats.... Will they be heated? I'm just looking on eBay for a loom... Figure while I've got time off work I should get cracking and put the stuff in. Any ideas folks? Thank you please
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Hi Thai-wronghorse, Ive now had another inspection of the seats and there is only one plug so im guessing no heating... can i just redneck it in there as the plug only has two pins.....? if so , i see in the fuse box diagram, that No17 is free and has a 7.5 amp fuse in.. and No44 is for Heated seats and uses a 15amp.... any pointers gratefully accepted... then i might be able to both these seats in... :)
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
1,036
Kent
I've just had another look at the picture above, is there only red & yellow plugs?
No green?

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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
1,036
Kent
In that case you'll just need a live feed and earth to operate the seat motors.

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B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
So do i have to return to the fuse box for those? as i said 17 is free.. and 44 is heated seats... any idea of amps fuse required? 20A maybe?
im just gonna go in the garage actually and make a wire with inline fuse.... when they stop fying thats what size i need.. lol
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Can I test them outside of the car using a couple of wires and car battery with a fuse in line? Will I risk setting the airbag off?
 

Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,195
1,036
Kent
Yeah, just wire the red plug up. Just dont touch the yellow one!

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B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Cool thx... Thought I better check... I've got an online fuse holder wired in... I'll start with a 15amp n see if it holds..
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Hey dudes how's it going? Lockdown continues unabated.... So does my learning of the Leon!!

I've got the passenger seat out from my Leon so I can start running some wires in from the battery for the leccy ones.... Any hints on where to come in from the battery to redneck a cable through!?
 

B1gM477

Active Member
Feb 19, 2020
38
2
Hey folks.... Just popping on to give a heads up and ask for more advice......

So I got the seats in ok and they have been working for ages now .. the advice given here, instrumental... Thank you...

Now to the door cards and subsequent massive fk up!!!

It's been some time and they stayed in the garage a while...still in good nick mind you.

Well anyway... The pas side window regulator died so that put me in a better position to do the door card swap, or at least forced the issue...

That's when we finally discover that there is a minor difference in the door card.... Fitment is exactly the same so no hassles there...
Issues came when we got so far along putting everything back together that we realized the new black leather cards don't have the popping rod hole for popping the locks... Ok... Rang a local specialist quick.... He says either, drill a hole in the new card to mount the small lock rod surround or, remove the rod..
We went for the latter....

Get it all back together and its looking dandy...
I even days to my mate, wow the handle doesn't even get caught so its back together right this time...
He says check the locking first... Ok then.

Now.. here's where it goes to ****..
When I checked the windows worked ok there was a small pop.

Well..
I locked the car and unlocked it... But only the driver's door boot and bonnet..
Now the pass door and rear doors won't open...
What the flaming heck happens now..
We reckon that even as careful as we were to get cables neat, the window mech had pulled the plug out the lock, and hence its spanners the rest...
Sound about right..

Sorry if that's all jargon but... I'm on beer 3 and still going .. where's me peanuts...

Throw me a bone someone...

How in god's name do you unlock a disconnected door.....? ..... Without a 4inch grinder?
Many thanks..
 

Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
A massive ball ache.
The 2 screws along the bottom edge of the door card can be removed with the door shut. Either take the seat out to make space or try and find a screwdriver that is short enough to get to the screws, leaving the seat in (both ways are possible although a right pita!). Work the seat forward, backward, up n down to suit.
Undo the screws etc behind the door handle.
Go have a cuppa tea or coffee. Lots of refreshing drinks available.
Now the **** bit.
You have to brace yourself. Grab the inner door handle and lift and pull with a fair amount of force. The door card will come out witha bit of force/luck.
May end up with some collateral damage. Mine broke a couple of the small popper clips on the back of the card.
Re-connect the catch plug and open the door.




Theres a little round popper on the loom to the door catch that clips to the metal panel (the one the regulator rivets to) and it holds the wiring clear of the drop glass when its lowered.

Hope this helps.

Rich


P.S Leave the 2 screws from the bottom of the door card in the ashtray and remove them from the other front door also.
You'll thank me later lol
 
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