Cupra_Bod

Active Member
Oct 10, 2014
131
0
Hi Guys,

I Have just joined here as I have recently bought an Ibiza TDi cupra pd160 on 125k and have seen on youtube a bloke cleaning his turbo with Mr Muscle oven cleaner...

Is this a good idea as I know how corrosive that stuff can be, or will it just get blasted out and job done??

Any tips or advice would be great, thanks in advance!
 
It depends, DO NOT just spray it into the intake...that would be harmful.
However, if you was to take the turbo apart and clean the exhaust side of the turbo, then it would be fine.
Why do you want to do this anyway? You should only do this if you are experiencing sticking turbo vnt nozzles.

Cheers
 
Thanks for your reply, I wanted to give it a clean as prevention is better than cure and as mine is high mileage I thought it may have a build up of muck, also I have not done an EGR delete yet and some vids I've seen have a massive build up of muck in the EGR valve

Should I not bother yet then?
 
Personally, if it was me, I would leave it unless you get an issue, then get it properly cleaned.
As long as you clear the turbo out every so often with your right foot (floor it going onto motorway sliproad??) it should be fine....mines over 100k now and fine. My 2005 Mondeo has a similar type turbo, that was fine at 200,000 miles.

As for the EGR, I highly recommend a darkside developments EGR Delete kit. If you don't know what that is, it replaces the whole EGR Valve for a "straight pipe". Better MPG, better BHP...better all around :)
 
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Ok I will leave it then thanks, this is my first diesel so its a learning curve for me!
I have looked into the Dark side EGR delete, Allard also do one that is slightly cheaper so I thought as it is only a piece of pipe and a blank, I might as well go for that one and put the money towards something else, I have a few mods in mind but its what to do first...
 
Just buy two blanking plates from eBay (one for original EGR and other for Manifold) and fit them. Pull off the vacuum from the EGR valve and map out the light. This way retains the ASV and is loads cheaper ;)
 
Just buy two blanking plates from eBay (one for original EGR and other for Manifold) and fit them. Pull off the vacuum from the EGR valve and map out the light. This way retains the ASV and is loads cheaper ;)

Thanks mate, not a bad idea, but what does ASV stand for??
 
ASV = Anti-Shudder Valve

When working correctly it smooths the engine shutdown. It will also save your engine if it starts 'running away' as it seals off the inlet when you turn off the ignition.

People have removed it then their turbos have failed, pouring oil into the intake, getting sucked into the engine, compressing, igniting and the cycle goes on. As the ASV has been removed there is no way of stopping it unless you pull off the intake and block it or wait for the engine to go bang!
 
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ASV = Anti-Shudder Valve

When working correctly it smooths the engine shutdown. It will also save your engine if it starts 'running away' as it seals off the inlet when you turn off the ignition.

People have removed it then their turbos have failed, pouring oil into the intake, getting sucked into the engine, compressing, igniting and the cycle goes on. As the ASV has been removed there is no way of stopping it unless you pull off the intake and block it or wait for the engine to go bang!

Ahh I see, so excuse my ignorance but where would I find the ASV?
 
The ASV is built into or bolt onto the EGR valve.

It looks similar to a throttle body when you look through the EGR valve.

Ok mate, thanks for the info, I will search for the blanking plates and get to work!
 
Just don't forget, if you plan to keep the EGR, then clean it out.
Chances are it is full of dirt and restricting airflow.

If your engine was to "run away" which is a very low chance, you can just put the car in 5/6th gear and stall it, so removing the EGR/ASV isn't such a worry :) but doing this method is certainly a lot cheaper.

Personally I like to remove the EGR completely, because I like new shiney parts ;) oh, and you can run a boost gauge off the Allard EGR delete (its what I have)
 
Just don't forget, if you plan to keep the EGR, then clean it out.
Chances are it is full of dirt and restricting airflow.

If your engine was to "run away" which is a very low chance, you can just put the car in 5/6th gear and stall it, so removing the EGR/ASV isn't such a worry :) but doing this method is certainly a lot cheaper.

Personally I like to remove the EGR completely, because I like new shiney parts ;) oh, and you can run a boost gauge off the Allard EGR delete (its what I have)

Oh can you?, is it easy to do? Does it come with the pipework to plug and play or is it a diy job?
 
Just don't forget, if you plan to keep the EGR, then clean it out.
Chances are it is full of dirt and restricting airflow.

If your engine was to "run away" which is a very low chance, you can just put the car in 5/6th gear and stall it, so removing the EGR/ASV isn't such a worry :) but doing this method is certainly a lot cheaper.

Personally I like to remove the EGR completely, because I like new shiney parts ;) oh, and you can run a boost gauge off the Allard EGR delete (its what I have)

I wouldn't count on this, seen a few runaway engines that were revving so fast/hard that the clutch doesnt stand a chance at stopping the engine, and neither does the ASV, so don't think you are 100% safe in either situation.

I would just get it mapped out and clean out the EGR. The delete pipe won't make much difference unless going the whole hog and replacing/upgrading all of the pipework.

The other thing to note is Mr Muscle isn't a miraculous cure to all your VNT problems... At best it will 'help' and 'reduce' symtpoms, but it is not a proper fix by any stretch of the imagination.
 
Ok guys, thanks for the input,

I plan to get the car mapped at some point so I think I will get the EGR blanking plates and delete it via the map, do I have to remove the EGR valve to clean it or can I squirt clutch/break cleaner in the pipe to clean it out?

or is that a bad idea too lol?
 
Don't squirt brake cleaner anywhere near the inlet manifold whilst it is on the car, or you might get first hand experience of a runaway engine!

Remove from car to clean, it's not difficult at all.
 
Don't squirt brake cleaner anywhere near the inlet manifold whilst it is on the car, or you might get first hand experience of a runaway engine!

Remove from car to clean, it's not difficult at all.

Ok mate, that's what I'll do, thanks for your help