KO3S won't listen!

[footlong]

Righty oh. After hearing a few good reports from people i know, I opted to let Ben from MAS performance come and map my recently fitted KO3S in. Lovely bloke, plenty of knowledge. The poor Guy was at it for about 6hours and left under the cloud of defeat. He said no matter what boost he requested, the car wouln't boost any harder than 10 psi. it got there and held at 9 psi. on the one occsaion he did get it past 10psi the car hit 12-13 psi and hesitated. the odd thing was, it would only pass 10 psi in 34th and 5th! car still drives as smooth as ever, no hesitation, no smoke. At the end of the day, he was genuinely Pi$$ed by this, reverted my car back the original 180bhp and left, mumbling something about "wastegate duties". Not got VAG COM. unplugged maf, no change. Electrically disconnected N75 and makes about4-5psi.. dv replaced with original bosch, no change. i have noticed that down the right hand side of the block is a join of two black pipes with what appears to be a black N/R valve in line. there is a t piece here which has had a port blanked off, essentially making this a hose joiner. is this normal?
acuator not been touched. i'd like to check it but not touch it. seems to be wound about half way down the rod.

I wish i'd never bothered. i'm now questioning that i've done the n249 correctly and correctly connected the single vac from the turbine.
one other thing is that it some times seems to be "searching" when holding boost by 1-2 psi.

Some one please help before i have a very expensive bonfire.
I'm off to bed with the arse on
Dan

 

[footlong]

Can't believe i haven't had a single reply! i'm searching and reading loads of old threads!

 

[Ibiza125]

I would check the actuator. Get up ontop of the engine and try and push the actuator open. Then when you have it open let it go and if it clunks (i.e. a metallic noise) it should be closing correctly. If it isn't closing correctly adjust it so that it is fully closed and then see what happens.

It could also be that you have connected your lines the wrong way. Only way I can tell is by a picture as I can't follow when people describe vac lines to me...

 

[-pseudonymous-]

As Josh said, we need a photo of your vac lines to so if they're plumbed in correctly. Have you completely removed the N112 and N249 valves?

As a guide as standard there should be around 11-13 threads showing before the first nut on the actuator rod.

 

[mr_D]

i think i know what your problem is. same as myki had which i spotted ages and ages ago


have a look at your n75. if this is plumbed in the wrong way this is what will happen. myki had his mapped and nothing would work. even tried different ecu's and everything. on compaing his and mine i spotted the difference N75 was wrong way


and as for your ass being on fire i would stop eatiing hot curries

 

[footlong]

I did have a few vac lines out of place (D'OH!). 249 is done but not 112 as i wasn't keen on messing with resistors. so my current set up is now correct (i think). i have dv correct, actuator correct BUT i now seem to have no-where to connect my "silver UFO" thing down the right side of the block. I think it maybe something to do with SAI????

 

[-pseudonymous-]

Yeah the silver ufo thing is the combi valve and is part of the sai system. Just block it off with a bit of vac hose and a screw in the end.

 

[footlong]

right, combi valve blocked off. been following the 249 guide. The N 75 connects to : charge pipe, tip. the third connection- actuator or does it connect to the pipe that has a braided cover and eventually reaches the carbon cannister? i ask this because i have a t piece on that line running to the carbon cannister and no idea where it should be connected to. all the pictures on the guide seem to omit which piece connects to the actuator. Sorry for being a pain.

 

[-pseudonymous-]

The third hose on the N75 valve goes straight to the actuator. From memory the hose from the carbon canister runs to the bottom of the tip near the turbo.

 

[footlong]

right, which means i block off the second outlet on the n112?

 

[footlong]

i've checked and the line to the carbon cannister is running to the bottom of the tip, but next to the combi valve is a t piece on the same line. this is the one i have spare.
As it stands my lines are:
N75 to tip, actuator and charge pipe.
from under inlet manni to fpr with front nipple. back nipple to check valve and d/v (t-piece) through to the bottom of the 112 valve. top of 112 valve is spare.
does that mean that the carbon cannister t piece is to be connected to the top 112 nipple? i'm lost!

 

[-pseudonymous-]

If i was you i would do a proper job and just remove the N112 and N249 valves and replace them with 330ohm 10w resistors as its straight forward enough to do and really simplifies things once done. You will end up with just two vac hoses coming off the inlet manifold, one to the FPR and the other to the DV.

If your going to keep the valves in situe then run a hose from the inlet manifold to a y-piece which splits into the N112 via a check valve and the other to the DV. The port on the top of the N112 valve should go to the combi valve on the engine block.

Im not sure about this t-piece you have in the carbon cannister pipework. You really need to get a picture of it.

 

[footlong]

I'm going to use common sense and stop messing with my car. I'm off to look at a standard 1.8 turbo and plumb the n249 back in. This messing about is like a chronic joke. i'm not going to wade in even deeper and start to f**k the electiral side of things up too. Thanks for the help in trying to sort out this infernal car.

Dan

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

Shame your so far away as id do it for you as it would take minutes....

Tottally remove the n112 and N249 as there not needed plus they make your DV alot louder..

Also on the N75 u have the Long outlet to TIP...Then one to charge pipe and the other to actuator..

 

[PitmanCupra]

hi

Shame your so far away as id do it for you as it would take minutes....

Tottally remove the n112 and N249 as there not needed plus they make your DV alot louder..

Also on the N75 u have the Long outlet to TIP...Then one to charge pipe and the other to actuator..

Sorry 2 butt in on this convo, i think i had the same problem with my k03s turbo, ive tried get 2 grips with what has said but not really goin in. i was wondering if 1 of u guys cud leave ur mobile number so i cud call u? be a great help

Thanks ollie

 

[tom w]

Shame your so far away as id do it for you as it would take minutes....

Tottally remove the n112 and N249 as there not needed plus they make your DV alot louder..

Also on the N75 u have the Long outlet to TIP...Then one to charge pipe and the other to actuator..

so danny are you saying that the long outlet on the n75 goes into the tip not the actuator?

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

so danny are you saying that the long outlet on the n75 goes into the tip not the actuator?

yeah the n75 has 2 short outlets and 1 long outlet ...

Long one goes to the tip....

 

[tom w]

ahh that solves that issue ,mines round the wrong way round lol hopefully it will boost properly then

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

make sure the Charge pipe vac and Acutator are the right way around...

 

[tom w]

charge pipe on the right... actuator on the left is this right?