Leon MK1 purchase

[Mihwise]

Hi. I intend to buy a Seat Leon MK1 this month.
This will be my first car, so I'm kind of confused about what I should know about this model (or other models I got on my "chosen list") because It's not easy to find a guide or web page with specific info. I hope coming here could be of some help
Firstly, I got some questions about the patrol engines (I don't desire for the diesel ones).
Is it right that Leon shares the same engines with Volkswagen Golf IV?
Also.... what would be the best choice between 1.4, 1.6 and 1.8T ? What's the most reliable from these three? I need this car to be as cheap as possible to maintain. As I read, the 1.8T lacks reliability, the 1.4 is underpowered and the 1.6 is reliable but develops an "appetite" for oil and lambdas (which are very cheap to replace?).
Are the materials from the interior of good quality ? Do they rust as some VAG owners say?
What would be a list of common problems specific to this car ?

 

[SEAT Rule]

Hello there,

this is quite a comprehensive thread on things to look out for on the MK1 Leon,
link below.

Checklist for LCR/LC first-time buyers

Here's a checklist for LCR/LC (Mk1) newbies & first-time buyers, compiled from various posts on this site: LCR/LC/Leon specific: Uneven tick-over? Flat spots at 2,500-3,000rpm? Is the MAF clean? Engine code on a 225 should be BAM..., for 210s its AMK... Engine code can be found on...

www.seatcupra.net

Plus as the MK1 Leon is roughly 21 years old for an early model and almost 15 years old for a later one, you'll definitely want to have a good feel/look of the outer sils and inner wheel arch area's, I think these cars were possibly galvanized from new, so maybe rust free for the first 8 to 10 years of life, I've seen rust on MK3 Golfs and MK4 Golfs, so which ever model of Leon you go to see, if it's been kept outside all it's life, then yes rust is a real possibility anywhere on the car.

Also check for full history or at least if it's been MOT and serviced every year, ask about the cam belt.
Plus go online and check the cars MOT history if you've got it's registration number to hand, ideally look at any advisories from the last MOT, as that might help you to check the car on test drive, plus might even mention rust, plus may help on bringing the price down a bit.

Most none standard cars will be thrashed so be careful.
Most traders / sellers will have started the car before you arrive, if it's an arranged viewing, so have a feel of the bonnet to see if it feels warm.
Also depending on how much your budget is you could also go online and get a HPI check done, this'll tell you if a vehicle has been written off, or has outstanding finance on it.


My advice on purchasing any make of car is to watch YouTube video reviews of each of the models you're interested in, this will definitely give you even more knowledge of each one.
This is what I did before I even started to look at any cars.



Hope this helps
Si

 

[Mihwise]

Thanks for reply !
I've read all of above.
But I've also read some more articles on web, and I found that Seat Toledo Mk2 could be a bit more reliable and it's more spacious on the inside than the Leon. Is that true? For some reason, in my local SH market, all have lower prices than the Leon.
Also one thing concerns me... the safety rating.
The Golf IV scored 4/5 Euro NCAP stars (I know these numbers are somehow irrelevant for today standards but they still matter somehow I guess).
Because Leon Mk1 shares the same platform with Golf IV, can I assume the Leon "got" 4/5 stars at Euro NCAP?

 

[SEAT Rule]

MK2 Toledo is basically same as MK1 Leon, they share the same floor pan and similar chassis set up as the MK1 TT and MK4 Golf.

(MK2 Toledo, 4 door saloon) 1998 to 2005/6
Wheelbase = 2513mm
Length = 4439mm
Width = 1742mm
Height = 1440mm
Standard ground clearance = roughly 120mm
Weight = 1166kg to 1272kg
Boot size = 500 litre


(MK1 Leon, 5 door hatchback) 1998 to 2005/6
Wheelbase = 2513mm
Length = 4183mm
Width = 1742mm
Height = 1440mm
Standard ground clearance = roughly 160mm
Weight = 1136kg to 1220kg
Boot size = 340 litre

Both the SEAT models share the same engine's pretty much, and the same width and wheelbase, the Toledo is slightly longer and possibly just heavier in weight. As they share the same engine's the MPG will be very similar.
Regarding reliability again there's no real big difference between the two models.
Interior wise is pretty good to be honest half decent plastics used on door cards and dashboard, but just like any basic low level base model of car, the lowest models will have none sporty seats, where as the mid model rage or top model like the Cupra will have all the top interior trim including sports seats.

Both models in question appear to be of similar height, but the Toledo is slightly longer due to it's deeper/longer boot at the back, so possibly might be a very slight difference in rear leg room for the rear passengers, but to be honest any difference will be minimal here, as both car's are made from the same MK4 Golf platform, it's just one model is a hatchback with boot size 340 litres, and the other is a saloon with full boot size of 500 litres, the dashboard and front seats and engine/running gear will be the same.

I've managed to find this thread from our Forum here. Possibly looks like the MK1 Leon and MK2 Toledo had the same or very similar NCAP crash test results as the MK4 Golf, of at least a 3 to 4 star rating.
Link below

Was there a Ncap rating for the Leon?

Just wondering?

www.seatcupra.net

I think the NCAP safety tests first came in around 1997, basically 4 star passed NCAP test vehicles from 1999 to 2002 will be no way near as good as a 4 star rating vehicle in 2015 or 2020, but yes back then they were good at there time of testing.


Hope this helps
Si

 

[Sl1ced]

I bought a £750 cupra 180 Leon about a month ago now. I’ve had a lot of work to do but it’s all been simple, and rust free. They’re all going to have niggles as they’re as mentioned 20 years old . Good thing is this community know most of the answers. Shop around and if you don’t fancy having to tinker here and there make sure you get one that ticks all the boxes. Clutch cam belt and pump etc


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[chriswales6]

The mk1 Leon, mk2 Toledo, mk1 Skoda Octavia, mk4 golf and mk1 Audi A3 are all the same car underneath just with different bodies on them. All are part of the VAG group & share engines.

They're solid enough cars & shouldnt have any rust apart from Golf front wings. If there is a lot of rust then it's likely had accident damage & best avoiding.

They're very old cars now & almost anything could go wrong. Some things are very simple & cheap to fix other things could cost more than the car is worth. Best find a well looked after example. They are still reliable but buy one that's been neglected & it could cost over a £1000 within a year.

The cheapest to run are the TDIs I know you said you don't want a diesel. But they're the best option, the 1.4 would be the next cheapest but feel.a lot slower than a TDI.

 

[Sparkie]

The 1.8t s a pretty bullet proof engine tbh
I had a Cupra 20VT and did over 90k in it taking miage to 167k in total.
Original gearbox and turbo and although sensors etc fail over time if serviced and cared for they will last well. And my car was thrashed daily if I’m honest.
Not so with my current car.
Which was on 47 k when I bought it but had hidden things that needed doing and was a money pit. Exhaust, brakes, pads, turbo, VVT tensioner etc.
Crazy as it seemed perfect and low mileage.
As said check it’s been kept properly as had water pump and timing belts done regularly.
Check fans come on. Slow and fast.
Look for water in carpets front back and boot. Or musty smell is sign they are getting wet.
Big problem with door seals and other areas leaking into the car.
Door locking is another VW problem on this era of car. They fail over time and need replacement. eBay do a cheap replacement but then doors need re sealing. This is where the water problems start if not done correctly.
As said the Leon’s don’t really rust much. Unless crashed.
You didn’t say your budget or age as insurance isn’t cheap on a 1.8t.
There are some well kept versions still out there.
Plenty of spares on fleabay a lots are broken for parts.
Good hunting


Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.

 

[Mihwise]

The 1.8t s a pretty bullet proof engine tbh
I had a Cupra 20VT and did over 90k in it taking miage to 167k in total.
Original gearbox and turbo and although sensors etc fail over time if serviced and cared for they will last well. And my car was thrashed daily if I’m honest.
Not so with my current car.
Which was on 47 k when I bought it but had hidden things that needed doing and was a money pit. Exhaust, brakes, pads, turbo, VVT tensioner etc.
Crazy as it seemed perfect and low mileage.
As said check it’s been kept properly as had water pump and timing belts done regularly.
Check fans come on. Slow and fast.
Look for water in carpets front back and boot. Or musty smell is sign they are getting wet.
Big problem with door seals and other areas leaking into the car.
Door locking is another VW problem on this era of car. They fail over time and need replacement. eBay do a cheap replacement but then doors need re sealing. This is where the water problems start if not done correctly.
As said the Leon’s don’t really rust much. Unless crashed.
You didn’t say your budget or age as insurance isn’t cheap on a 1.8t.
There are some well kept versions still out there.
Plenty of spares on fleabay a lots are broken for parts.
Good hunting


Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.

Hi ! Thanks for the detailed answer
I got a budget of 1500-2200 £ and another 500 £ for repairs. The insurance isn't something I worry too much.
I've read a post on another local seat forum where a high-respected member from there said he spent only 1800 £ in the car repairs for 8 years (with the 1.6 BCB engine).
I've also read somewhere that the electrics on Leon are prone to defections frequently. Is that true?

 

[Sl1ced]

It all depends on how it’s been looked after. I’ve spent about 200£ and got most things done myself. Electrics have been very good so far to be honest. A few bushes here and there and the only expense I’m going to pay out for is a timing belt (don’t quite trust myself yet )


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[chriswales6]

No one can give you a detailed list of what you'd have to repair/replace. I've had my Leon 14 years, some years it's only cost me £40 in oil & filters. Other years it's cost me well over £500.

I've hardly used it this year because of lockdowns but so far its had:

Coil spring at the MOT
Front passenger door lock
Resealed the front passenger door 3 times after changing the lock
New battery
And would've need even more stuff like new tyres if I was using more

They're reliable cars, but I always have at least £500 a year ready to keep it on the road.

 

[Nam-uk]

only electrics issue ive had is the door lock since 2011 , thing is with door lock problem is the micro switch and i sourced them from chi-na and replaced them and that sorted two original door locks that cost 160 quid each as the failer was getting annoying so got one spare now, but was down to a bad seat main garage repair as the main plug was damaged, only door i resealed was drivers but was lock issue and replaced n75 valve and that was £56 due too the plastic pipe end broke due to brittle

 

[Alexis27]

Rear dampers
Rear springs
Rear discs
Rear pads
Rear calipers
Front discs
Front pads
Front wishbones
Clutch
Flywheel
Turbo
Wheel bearing
Battery
Cambelt
Filters
Oil
Plugs
Coils
N75
Gearbox shim
Crankshaft sensor
EGT sensor
Recirc valve
Four tyres
Splitter
Four door handles

All in 16 months! And it needs the wheels refurbing because they leak air.

But then again it's almost back to new! 80k on the engine, 1000 on the clutch, 100 on the turbo.

 

[Nam-uk]

Rear dampers
Rear springs
Rear discs
Rear pads
Rear calipers
Front discs
Front pads
Front wishbones
Clutch
Flywheel
Turbo
Wheel bearing
Battery
Cambelt
Filters
Oil
Plugs
Coils
N75
Gearbox shim
Crankshaft sensor
EGT sensor
Recirc valve
Four tyres
Splitter
Four door handles

All in 16 months! And it needs the wheels refurbing because they leak air.

But then again it's almost back to new! 80k on the engine, 1000 on the clutch, 100 on the turbo.

when i had my wheels refurbed 2 year after i bought it i also replaced the front left and right ball joints as one was going and they are a common fault as i was getting new tyres fitted and laser tracked, worth doing if they weren't done when wishbones were done and its not a big job also get the genuine joints as ive had aftermarket ones fail when i had my clio16v's