Managed to fit Proshift oil temp and boost gauges this weekend

Hurrah! Hurrah etc etc!

Managed to fit Prosport oil temp and boost gauges this weekend, initially had a problem, well 2;

1) Oil was leaking from the sender/adaptor.

2) The oil temp gauge was moving by itself to the max, and min, when using the dimmer switch!


Solutions! For all those that may do this in the future!


1) It's a 1/8npt thread on the sender, and M10x1 apparantly for the blanking plug, however, some PFTE tape, a nice washer and the adaptor is not even needed, the sender screws straight into the block... (not sure if I was ever meant to get an adaptor but thought i'd read it somewhere)

2) I've wired the power for the gauges directly off the switched live, instead of the backlight live, although you can do that for the boost gauge, I have just used a seperate wire for both red power feeds into a connector block (not scotch blocks, they suck).

So I have a Red wire block feeding the power
Yellow wire block feeding the illumination
Black wire block earthing.

Oh, and the sender wires;

Black - wired directly onto battery negative terminal (with hoop adaptor)
Red - wired through grommit, into green oil temp gauge wire (connector block!)


All working great, my friend on here (pulsebass) we did his too.

I'll post pics asap!
 
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Nov 2, 2004
9,335
0
South Wales
Yeah the 1/8npt is a tapered thread so to a point it will fit fine, so i guess what you done will be ok, not ideal but ok.
 
Hey folks, yea, I just checked it, no leaks so hopefully it will do the trick, I had a 1/4npt to M10x1 adaptor, but thats what seemed to leak strangely enough! Ah well!

Here are some pictures as promised! (Rubbish picture quality is down to both me and Sony Ericsson phones being crap)

I know the boost gauge is off center, i've moved it now but that was after the pics were taken :)



OFF in daytime;

Offday.jpg


ON in daytime;

OnDay.jpg


ON in evening;

OnNight.jpg


Wiring;

Wiring.jpg
 
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I chose those ones because the amber is quite a nice look, but mainly because the oil temp gauge starts really low! Which means you get to see when the oil is at, say, 30 degrees, whereas a lot of gauges for oil temp start around 60 degrees C.

Surprisingly the oil temp doesn't take as long as I thought to heat up, I usually wait til its around 70-80 degrees before using any boost!
 

BHP Addict

Back in a SEAT!!
Jan 31, 2006
886
0
Birmingham
Well Done mate. I like them.

I have the Cupra R pods in mine but no gauges lol, been in for weeks now.

Need to give myself a kick up the a*se and get them brought.

Thanks for the wire pics too ;)

*EDIT* Where you get the gauges mate? I have been looking at Glowshift ones but they are in the USA.
 
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Hey mate, no worries - I advise not to use scotch locks, for behind the headlight switch they are ok because it would be a bit of a palava to cut wires there as theres not much space, but for the other part use those connector blocks, only £1 or so from B&Q for a block of 10 (you only need a few as above pic shows) You get a good connection as you strip the wires properly whereas scotch ones tend to either not cut through the wire properly, or cause weak connections.

The title is an error on my behalf, they are PROSPORT not proshift as I put in the title thread, but I got them on ebay from a UK supplier, have a look, if you can't find them, give me a message and i'll send you the seller link when I get in from work.
 
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