Missing Power!! please help :)

[Mark27LCR]

ok cool I will switch the sensor first, and see if the actual matches up.

yea from what I read I kinda got the idea that if you adjust it the ECU tries to correct it anyway,

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...p-adjusting-my-fuel!-with-unisettings-that-is.

I was looking at post #23

I will replace o2 first do a another couple of logs then I might try some small adjustments to see what the actual fuel reading is and if it changes, this is just to make it safer though i'm not expecting more power from doing this, thanks again for you input.

 

[leon cupra r]

ok cool I will switch the sensor first, and see if the actual matches up.

yea from what I read I kinda got the idea that if you adjust it the ECU tries to correct it anyway,

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showth...p-adjusting-my-fuel!-with-unisettings-that-is.

I was looking at post #23

I will replace o2 first do a another couple of logs then I might try some small adjustments to see what the actual fuel reading is and if it changes, this is just to make it safer though i'm not expecting more power from doing this, thanks again for you input.

I'm pretty sure you can't use unisettings - you will be increasing main fuel trim which will then be adapted back down by the ECU to hit requested fuelling. You add 10% with unisettings, ECU then adapts out 10% to hit requests and throws an EML because it thinks something is wrong.

That's how I was always told it is anyway - feel free to experiment and if you manage to sort it even better

 

[Mark27LCR]

Hi Guys well since my last post I've done the following work

Oil flush, Oil change and oil filter change
New fuel filter fitted
New o2 sensor fitted
turbo to downpipe gasket replaced ( was blowing)


This weekend I will be fitting a custom catch can
and replacing all the jubilee clips on my boost hoses for the mikalor t-bolt type
i'm going to clean out all the hoses with brake cleaner and also attempt to empty my intercooler as I think there maybe a pool of oil in there judging by the state of my boost hoses.

I do have nother question though I mentioned in a previous post about a weird noise on cold startup for a couple of minutes, well while working on the car over day it was cold after we changed the oil and it stared to happen so I got my mechanic mate to remove the aux belt to cancel out any chance of being alternator/power steering/ air con pump

the noise remained I think this is one of two things from what I've read..

Low oil pressure
or the timing chain tensioner
this thing
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111178992972#ht_863wt_1399

i'll post a vid up later if I can any one have any ideas? and could this be related to my timing retard issue?

 

[brad_barker12]

If the engine makes a slight rattle on startup for a second then this is normally the VVT unit.
Caused by
Low oil pressure due to faulty oil pump or most commonly oil pickup pipe
Or fooked VVT unit

 

[swedey21]

I had a stage 1 remap some time ago..
"Dimsport" software used too...

My EGTs were sky high...protection was kicking in when booting it...
Here's my thread..
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=338817

Suffice to say...I couldn't wait for it to get removed..

Hope you get it sorted...all I could think of is it running lean...not good..
Ticking time bomb.

 

[Mark27LCR]

Thanks for the advice guys, as for my running lean issue I've kept my boost down for now and tend not to race it around until I get it mapped properly, but my thought is that if there's such a drop in power from what it had when mapped by jabba there must be something causing it, which getting it remapped wouldn't rectify so i'm trying to get some bhp back before sorting my fueling issue out. last RR was 216hp lot's of changes as in my first post and 7 years have past since it had 276 but it's a lot to lose.

The Noise that happens is loud when started cold and it is still there when at operating temperature just a lot quieter so i'm guessing it's the mechanism (timing chain tensioner) which controls the VVT that's at fault, but other than fitting an oil pressure gauge is there a way of checking pressure? can a garage do it for example? i've never had a light on for it? by the way I forgot to mention when I did my oil change, I removed the sump to check the pickup pipe and it was pretty clear, this may have been because of the flush but yeah didn't have anything to remove.

I'll get a vid up tonight because it's hard to explain but my guess someone will know if they hear it.

 

[Mark27LCR]

This is the noise when cold

View My Video
or
http://tinypic.com/r/1rc5jc/5

and when warm;

View My Video
or
http://tinypic.com/r/29lzsev/5

the higher pitch whining is it as obvious when warm but it's still a bit tappety

 

[Mark27LCR]

Hi again, I finished my catch can install/pcv delete over the weekend and refitted all my boost hose clamps, and did a run with it, , I did however use Unisettings to add 5% more fuel to channel 10 Primary fuel enrich this was just to see if it can get enough fuel in regarding the fuel pump, it was still running lean as it didn't adjust WOT and EGT's still high but while I was looking at my AFR that was like high 13's @ WOT, using my phone's torque app it read out it this code, no light on the dash though,

plugged vagcom in and got this? is it related to the noise above when cold?

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0
Monday, 07 October 2013, 10:21:35:0
Control Module Part Number: 1ML 906 032
Component and/or Version: 1.8l R4/5VT 01 0001
Software Coding: 10510
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
Additional Info: VSSZZZ1MZ3R099322 SEZ7Z0C1924061
1 Fault Found:
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-00 - -


I do realise I still need a proper map just trying to fix everything first, appreciate the help guys

 

[Mark27LCR]

This was running @ 1.3bar

 

[brad_barker12]

That fault code is the same one my mates cupra r is getting. Its down to the VVT unit. New one is needed.
He also has the rattle on cold start and is down 40 bhp

 

[leon cupra r]

That fault code is the same one my mates cupra r is getting. Its down to the VVT unit. New one is needed.
He also has the rattle on cold start and is down 40 bhp

Also heard it can just be low oil pressure which stops the VVT being able to operate... Usual suspect sounds to be oil pick up pipes clogged up...

Mark be careful running your car hard - it's not able to meet the fuel enrichment neccessary to keep cool and therefore it has no way of regulating temperatures - hence they are getting hotter and hotter past 920 as you keep accelerating. Its not good for it.

 

[brad_barker12]

Also heard it can just be low oil pressure which stops the VVT being able to operate... Usual suspect sounds to be oil pick up pipes clogged up...

Mark be careful running your car hard - it's not able to meet the fuel enrichment neccessary to keep cool and therefore it has no way of regulating temperatures - hence they are getting hotter and hotter past 920 as you keep accelerating. Its not good for it.

Yea it can be low oil pressure due to blocked pick up, the OP said he checked this and all was good. Only thing left to do is change the VVT unit.

 

[leon cupra r]

Yea it can be low oil pressure due to blocked pick up, the OP said he checked this and all was good. Only thing left to do is change the VVT unit.

Fair enough, must have missed that part

 

[Mark27LCR]

Hi guys thanks again for the comments and suggestions,

I don't drive like this all the time only when testing to see if its made any difference I have had the boost down to 1 bar for the last month or so only put it up to make sure pipes are holding on etc, I will get the fuel mapped correctly once hardware issues out the way.

ok so I did check the pickup which wasn't blocked but i'm still on the same oil pump which Is probably the age of the car as nothing in the history to say otherwise.

I'm going to and arrange an oil pressure test with a local garage just to be sure the pump is ok,

i'm going to order the VVT unit although I'm abit baffled by the amount of revisions for this, but this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111178992972#ht_863wt_1239

is a seller local to me in Birmingham and assures me it's for the cupra r (AMK/BAM) as well as the other cars listed??

12 month warranty with it? and it's between £150 & £250 cheaper than places like GSF or OEM from seat/audi.

Leon Cupra R (whats your name by the way I keep referring to you as leon cupra r lol) when you told me before to check my IDC's I did that last log for that, as I now have a new o2 sensor to read fuel received correctly, but some of the calculations are still over 100% but only when EGT protection kicks in.. do you think I still need a new fuel pump too?

 

[leon cupra r]

Sorry mate me name's Ben... If you get your car mapped correctly so it doesn't need to kick in EGT mode all the time you might get away without a new fuel pump. The way yours is running now it gets very hot very quickly, then needs to fuel dump like crazy to cool down... If it's mapped to run richer as soon as you boot it it should stay cooler for longer and might only need slight EGT dumping in extreme circumstances when you've been driving hard for a long period of time.

I don't know anything about VVT units, but that link you've put on certainly doesn't look right to me?? Looks like thats just the half moon gasket and tensioner?

 

[ibizacupra]

beware of these copy vvt's..... most often they dotn work and cause as many issues as you're trying to fix

 

[Mark27LCR]

Ok thanks for your advice Ben & Bill, well I though that might be the case and I've just messaged them for info on this unit,

this is the company
http://www.gap-turbos.com/about-us/why-gap-turbos/

and i'm no expert but it looks very similar to one offered up by GSF when I put my Reg in
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/023vg0140

would you just bite the bullet and go with the one from GSF, or go OEM for £300+


My plan is now

Oil pressure test this weekend,
replace VVT unit if oil pressure is ok,
then down to B5 for mapping

Bill I meant to ask my friend has a VXR corsa with just an induction kit, do you map these too, as if so he'd want his done too at the same time I come down.

 

[Mark27LCR]

Ok so I couldn't find anywhere to do an oil pressure test in Birmingham and by the responses I was getting from garages it was gonna be £30-50 if I did find somewhere, so I bought a £12 ebay job and did it myself yesterday, It was an electronic sender unit so no need for oil pipes, just took the test plug out and unbolted a bracket that was in the way, screwed in the sender unit and tightened it up, connected it up to the dial only temporary as I didn't want it in the car anyway (think i'll save it our mk2 1.8t project car ), and I was pleased to find my oil pressure is perfectly fine.

Cold idle - 75psi
warm idle- 25psi
warm 2000rpm - 50psi
warm 3000rpm - 75psi
higher than 3000rpm upto 100psi

happy with that so it's my chain tensioner making a noise at cold startup and possibly messing up my cam advance/retard i'm going to get this swapped out at the end of the month and update again.

 

[Mark27LCR]

Hi Haven't updated for a while thought i'd let you know what i've done since,

Not long after my last post my clutch started slipping also the year before i lost 1st and 2nd gear on my 02m box, at the time i needed a quick fix so bought one off ebay for £100 and had it fitted, it's lasted well but always whined. So before my clutch completly gave up on me i stripped down my older box located the issue with the fork had the M8 bolt and weld job done following this guide

http://newbeetle.org/forums/transmission-talk/50942-turbo-s-just-lost-1st-2nd-my-02m-6-speed.html

and then paid for new bearings and a rebuild £350 quid later oh well, i then got the Valeo clutch and SMF kit for £280 had them fitted along with a powerflex dog bone mount. I'm kinda impressed with it tbh not as bad as alot of people made out, occasional slight wobble felt at idle, i adjusted my idle RPM to about 900 and problem solved .


So back to my other issue's..

The VVT actuator was going to cost me £200-300, then fitting and i wasn't convinced it would solve all my issue's with the cold start noise, oh and starting to lose water again like last year before my headgasket was done, so i bought a BAM head with 40K from rear ended LCR for £250 complete.

Couple of questions if i may .

What i am planning is the IE rod kit from the US, new piston rings, already purchased a Relentless v2 that's had the face machine for better fitting and all the welds re-done, i bought it like this for £200 so thought it was a bargain. And a Hybrid k04 from BBT, i don't want to max it out i'd be happy with 320bhp and about the same torque.

is there anything else i should definitely do to achieve this? supertech valves are an option with the rod kit, will i need them?

Is it worth me getting it ported & polished while it's off?

I know alot of people just go straight to large port but i don't plan to make this BT monster.

I'd be grateful for any info on this guys, thanks in advance.

 

[leon cupra r]

Sounds like you've had a nasty couple of months, but glad you've got everything on track

Hopefully Bill is still subscribed, if not, you need to speak to him. If you're thinking of getting the car mapped there anyway then I'd have a chat with him about the fitting of rods/manifold

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone porting a cylinder head on a 1.8t to be honest, just done a quick google and a couple of posts are saying there's little point as they flow so well out of the box... Certainly if you're only aiming at 320bhp I don't think you would need to.

As for valves, I would hope a head with 40k on should keep up pretty well for the figures you're thinking of. For info, if I remember correctly Bill did some testing and found 7500rpm to be the point where stock valves start floating on these engines. Again Bill would be best to discuss this with.