MK3 Cupra Track/Race car - New Build

[Chambers_CUPRA]

Empty ya in box bro haha

 

[Aaron87]

Done!


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[Aaron87]

A small update as I've not been keeping on top of this lately!

I was annoyed with how my older FMIC was installed and it was also pretty small.

So I set about removing the old one







While I was there I thought I'd better remove the rest of the AC parts I'd not go round to doing yet...



new intercooler fitted





Crash bar modified to fit & MSA tow strap fitted



Bumper back on



Next I decided I didn't like the white interior any more as it was always look dirty..

Easy fix.. Paint it black!



Then I picked up a set of wheels & slicks..



Test fit after modifying the wheel centre bore



Fit nicely so happy with that!

Currently modifying the gear linkage ends to accept rose joints to further improve the shifter quality..

More on that soon!

 

[cuprabaz]

Is that crash bar strong enough to take the load of towing? I've only ever seen them mounted on the towing eye thread.

What sprint rates are you changing to for using slicks?

 

[Aaron87]

Should be. I've moved it from where it is in the picture.. Now right next to the tow eye thread.. Couldn't think of a way to use the original thread.

Will be running the car in the CBT VW Classics dude. New championship for this year, looks really good and some good cars / drivers in it.

 

[cuprabaz]

I got a left hand thread bolt for mine, maybe one to watch for.

Nice one! Just had a quick squint at the regs, you must be pretty close to the bhp/ton limit?

 

[Aaron87]

Ah cool. Do you know what size it was?? I'll get one.. I thought of doing that but was told they're a custom thread.

Yeah, pretty much bang on the reg limit HP so should be competitive

 

[cuprabaz]

I'm not sure, I can't remember where i even got/found the bolt. I guess you could make one out of an old tow hook and weld a big hex head onto it, might work.

Perfect, will have to run ballast if you up the power?

 

[Aaron87]

Yeah that's what I was thinking about doing before.. Will have a dig around in the garage for the old tow eye..

Shouldn't have to run ballast. I'll know once I've had it power tested and weighed

 

[cuprabaz]

You might be able to grind down the tow eye to make a square head so you spanner it tight.

 

[Aaron87]

Finished off the shifter rose joints today.. Only took a couple mins, but as I had a few hours I decided to do something about the shifter height to make it more suitable for racing..

Originally I was going to weld some bars and bosses in (similar to Nige's Mk2) although if I ever wanted to change anything it would mean cutting stuff out etc.

So, I went for something easily remove able but also allows me to adjust the height of the shifter to suit me.

Firstly, rose joints.

Welded the adapters to my cable ends

The cable heat shields had fallen apart so I wrapped those

Fitted rose joints

Fitted to the box

For the shifter I simply got 4 300mm M8 threaded bars, some M8 Nylock nuts, some ally and a load of washers..

I installed the rods into the car, made up a reinforcement plate to sit under the shifter and help support the rods.. Dropped the shifter box on and set it to a height I was happy with.

Will neaten things up tomorrow when I have time.. I'll probably end up making a 'tower' with removable side, front and back plates to make it all look cleaner.

Height is much better now though!

B&M shifter next I think...







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[cuprabaz]

Shifter height is something i've been meaning to do for a long time, far better up high like yours. Is there much movement or are the M8 rods enough stop any movement while changing?

 

[Aaron87]

That was my main worry.. But I've put a 1.5mm plate the same shape as the shifter in and there's no movement at all, even with aggressive shifts


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[cuprabaz]

Nice one

 

[Aaron87]

Will take some better pictures of it this morning in day light


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[dean66]

With welding the adaptors on to the cable ends how do you adjust the length to get all the gears?

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[R4cup]

Nice work Aaron

 

[Aaron87]

Just measured the hole centres before removing the plastic ball joints and cut the rose joints to length. Nice and easy!


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[Aaron87]

BAD NEWS..

I'm breaking this for parts..

Anyone interested please let me know ASAP on here on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/299118353560970/ Or text me - 07469210820.

So many parts to sell but a list here;

Ibiza Parts
Roll cage - £550
Toyo FMIC & Pipe work - £150
Solid machined Engine Front Mount £45 *Provisionally sold*
Solid machined Gearbox Mount - £45 *Provisionally sold*
Vibratechnics Rear engine mount - £45 *Provisionally sold*
OMP Seat subframes - £80
Toyo FMIC - £30
Flocked Dash - £100
312mm Brake conversion – Full Cupra kit with braided HEL lines & EPB Pads - £230
Roll centre correction / ball joint extenders - £90
Rose joint steering arms - £70
Inner steering arms (New) - £25
Ball joints (new) - £15
Front Nuspeed ARB with Polybushes - £120 *Provisionally sold*
Rear Nuspeed ARB - £110 *Provisionally sold*
Front lower adjustable strut brace - £40 *Provisionally sold*
Upper strut brace - £25 *Provisionally sold*
K03s Turbo (low mileage & perfect working condition) - £150
Forge TIP - £35 *Provisionally sold*
Stitch welded & black series polybush wishbones - £100
AP Coilovers with Black series solid top mounts & custom made sleeves - £250
20mm hubcentric wheel spacers - £30
Front 8mm FK spacers - £20
2.5” downpipe & decat pipe (heatwrapped) - £85 *Provisionally sold*
Blue flame oval exhaust system – *Provisionally sold*
Engine - £130
SQS Plate race LSD (new since rebuild costing 1000 euros) – *Provisionally sold*
Cupra Stars in White with Toyo TR1’s on front budget on rear, all very good - £150
4 Bar FPR - £20

225 Walbro Fuel pump – New - £50
K03 Turbos x 2 - £30 each
CR Turbos 10 psi actuator – New - £50
Machined front hubs for reduced bump steer with motorsport stud conversion & D1 style nuts - £100
Drive shafts - £30 for the pair – *Provisionally sold*
Black series polybushed front subframe - £80
Black series steering rack bush - £20
K03s Ported exhaust manifold - £70
Side Skirts with jacking point covers in blue - £40
Rear beam - £30
Standard gearbox - £50
Standard fuel pump - £20
Drivers window regulator - £35
Drivers wing - £30
Passenger wing - £30
Front bumper - £50
Rear bumper - £30
Rose jointed O2j shifter - £50
Bonnet with lockable aero latches - £50
Tailgate with lockable aero latches & glass (chopped inner skin to save weight) £40
Steering rack (with brand new inner arms) - £50
Dump Valve (unknown make) - £30
Forge Blanking plate for SAI - £20
Light weight race wheels in Kawasaki Green with Dunlop Slicks fitted - £200
Digital smoked boost gauge - £30
Digital smoked voltmeter (battery gauge) £30
ECU with stage 1 (K03) Map - Made 192bhp on my engine - £50

 

[Aaron87]

ARB's, Mounts and braces still for sale. No provisionally sold.