stoneyfordNI said:
not much more u can do than that hope u get an answer , let us know the answer watever the outcome


Will do - time for some ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZds cheers m8
 
sssstew said:
or invest in vagcom to see whats happening....


But isnt this why I leave it to more experience tuners and pay the fees for the developments - the people who know what there doing.
 
maxcars1 said:
But isnt this why I leave it to more experience tuners and pay the fees for the developments - the people who know what there doing.
Vag-com is a VERY useful tool to have, all sorts of sensor outputs you can monitor, log, graph, etc etc. You can run self tests, change settings (ever wanted to decrease the amount of assistance from the power steering, or enable your alarm chirp, or enable/disable to autolocking...). And of course read off and clear fault codes so you can start doing your own diagnosis when things go wrong. Being able to tell your dealer what the fault is when you take it in, is very useful !
 
muddyboots said:
Vag-com is a VERY useful tool to have, all sorts of sensor outputs you can monitor, log, graph, etc etc. You can run self tests, change settings (ever wanted to decrease the amount of assistance from the power steering, or enable your alarm chirp, or enable/disable to autolocking...). And of course read off and clear fault codes so you can start doing your own diagnosis when things go wrong. Being able to tell your dealer what the fault is when you take it in, is very useful !

All very well, but this kind of fault can't be reproduced by the dealer. Therefore, I'm using a well known proven specialists that use the software. Unfortunately, it's proving a little difficult this one. Clearly I understand the benefits of vagcom, and it's something I will be considering in the future.
 
Well I've spent all day trying another MAF and N75/N18 valve and tested the car after each change - car still goes into limp mode [:@] . The car is still in standard factory ecu map. I've now just changed back to my original induction pipe and factory air filter for another run. I'm now running out of ideas. MAP, MAF and N75/N18 changed and still limp mode as a standard car :confused: .
 
I don't mean to unset you, but as I previously said, this is almost exactly the fault I had, And it took 11 months to sort. And yes in the end a new turbo. :( Seat seemed very reluctant to admit this may be a group fault; but finally did on mine. If you are out of warranty, and need the turbo replaced, it might be worth pestering seat central.
 
i think everything has been cancelled out , only thing left is turbo , have u tried the likes of 10K boost to see if itll free it up , only thing id be wary of, is lumps of coke getting into the chambers
 
If you do write to Seat Central, try and refer to Angus's case if they admitted his was a fault, it might give more weight to your case.

When I complained about my cracked windscreen, three other people off here sent me photos of theirs cracked in the same place, which I printed and included in my letter; they backed down and replaced it under warranty :)
 
muddyboots said:
Have you tried cycling the actuator as suggested ?

This sounds like a very useful maintenance routine, think I might do it over the Christmas break.
Did you do this, and notice any improvement?

I've done it a couple more times now, and I definitely have noticed an improvement. It's quite subtle, but the engine is less laggy and the power delivery is a lot smoother. It's most noticeable when you're just pottering about gently: pulling away from junctions and onto roundabouts etc. I guess the VNT mechanism was being a bit slow to deliver the subtle little bits of boost that you hardly notice. It's only now I've done this procedure that I realise the engine was being slightly hesitant before.

The question is, is my turbo doomed to get stickier or will this procedure free it up fairly permanently - perhaps just requiring a bit of exercise every few weeks? I guess time will tell. Obviously I try to welly the engine whenever possible (otherwise I'd have bought a 1.0 Nova) but a combination of traffic jams and icy roads often prevent this for several days at a time.

For anyone with VAG-COM, it definitely seems worth a try. I don't think it does any harm. ;)
 
had this before on with alhambras wastegate seems to be working but when gets hot sticks causing it to overboost had to put car on rollers for 1/2 hor @ 70mph to get it to go wrong.changed tourbo all o.k
will be the fault guaranteed:)
 
dmjw01 said:
Did you do this, and notice any improvement?
No I haven't - to be honest I'd forgotten about it !

Thanks for the reminder, I'd go out and do it - but it's around -6º now so it can wait :)
 
goble said:
had this before on with alhambras wastegate seems to be working but when gets hot sticks causing it to overboost had to put car on rollers for 1/2 hor @ 70mph to get it to go wrong.changed tourbo all o.k
will be the fault guaranteed:)



the car in question has a VNT turbo-------no wastegate
 
turbo problem

I don't mean to unset you, but as I previously said, this is almost exactly the fault I had, And it took 11 months to sort. And yes in the end a new turbo. :( Seat seemed very reluctant to admit this may be a group fault; but finally did on mine. If you are out of warranty, and need the turbo replaced, it might be worth pestering seat central.

You have a PM


Hi guys,
I feel your pain. I have the exact same problem that you both have had. I took mine (ibiza 1.9 tdi) to my local dealer, the workshop manager took me and the car for a test drive, and whilst in the car admitted that these engines have a design fault, and that they had previously recalled cars to strip and clean the turbo's under warranty. but as is always the way mine is no longer under warranty and requires a turbo clean to correct the problem.

Angusrob you mentioned pestering seat central... did you do this? and did it work? if so how do you go about it?

Are your cars now cured?

thanks

Phill.