Temps would have to get alot higher before the metals strength and ductilty got to such an extent as to bend rods! But as m0rk said friction is the big killer! 
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OIL Temperature
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Mitchy said:I'll do an oil change this week to see if it helps.
I averaged 34.8mpg over 330 miles on the way up and 32.9mpg on the way down so i've been taking it very easy and still 120C
I'm not to sure if the temps would be different between LC's/LCR's and chipped examples of both
Perhaps i should change the sender or buy another gauge to compare.
If i give it the beans and high speed stuff, it will rise to 150 C120 C is normal operating temp it seems
Ive thought about a cooler but will the engine bay allow any room for 1?
Where's the gauge sender?
I imagine hes attached the sender in to the same place i have my pressure sensor- just above and to the left of the filter theres a blanking plate/screw- needs a hex bit to remove
YerMother said:Temps would have to get alot higher before the metals strength and ductilty got to such an extent as to bend rods! But as m0rk said friction is the big killer!
I was just thinking since were gettin near to their max torque rating- esp the bt boys(and them reving higher to- more friction) could the extra heat slightly weaken them making them more prone to bending?
Mitchy - here's some more qualified opinion from a friend of mine @ Castrol when asked about 150C
Is this water temp or oil temp? If it's oil temp it's high, upper limit
for short periods for most regular oils. Full PAO / Ester synthetics
will be better able to cope but it's still pushing them a little. In
terms of off the shelf, Formula RS / Mobil 1, Silkolene Pro S, stuff
like that will be best.
nothing will fail with regular oil changes, basically, this temp will
cause eventual oxidation of the oil so it will start to burn off, some
of the oil will form sludge, some of the additives will start to break
down etc - the more frequently the oil is changed the better protection
you will get.
if the bulk oil (i.e. in the sump) is frequently at those temps, it
means that in the upper part of the engine the the oil is going to be
very high, which is where the real problems are, 150 isn't as much as
the oil can take but that indicates a higher temp elsewhere. If those
temps are attained everytime the car is driven, i'd recommend changing
the oil 3 times a year just to be on the safe side, twice might be ok
but just personally speaking i wouldn't risk it.
Just as a comparison, on our f1 engines, we try to avoid the bulk oil
temp (tho it is dry sump...) going over 150 / 160 and that includes
heat soaks - 40 seconds on the grid with no cooling.
Is this water temp or oil temp? If it's oil temp it's high, upper limit
for short periods for most regular oils. Full PAO / Ester synthetics
will be better able to cope but it's still pushing them a little. In
terms of off the shelf, Formula RS / Mobil 1, Silkolene Pro S, stuff
like that will be best.
nothing will fail with regular oil changes, basically, this temp will
cause eventual oxidation of the oil so it will start to burn off, some
of the oil will form sludge, some of the additives will start to break
down etc - the more frequently the oil is changed the better protection
you will get.
if the bulk oil (i.e. in the sump) is frequently at those temps, it
means that in the upper part of the engine the the oil is going to be
very high, which is where the real problems are, 150 isn't as much as
the oil can take but that indicates a higher temp elsewhere. If those
temps are attained everytime the car is driven, i'd recommend changing
the oil 3 times a year just to be on the safe side, twice might be ok
but just personally speaking i wouldn't risk it.
Just as a comparison, on our f1 engines, we try to avoid the bulk oil
temp (tho it is dry sump...) going over 150 / 160 and that includes
heat soaks - 40 seconds on the grid with no cooling.
Mitchy,
I've got a chipped LC (guesstimate 220bhp), I fitted an oil temp gauge a couple of weeks ago with the sender fitted in the oil filter housing.
Regular temp around 90c, up to 105 when "playing".
Good luck m8
I've got a chipped LC (guesstimate 220bhp), I fitted an oil temp gauge a couple of weeks ago with the sender fitted in the oil filter housing.
Regular temp around 90c, up to 105 when "playing".
Good luck m8
JiM001
Guest
there is a small screw that you need to take out at the back of the oil fiter. Put the sender in its place (thats where mine is)
Make sure to use lots of sealant tho so you don't end up with horrible oil leaks!
Make sure to use lots of sealant tho so you don't end up with horrible oil leaks!
JiM001
Guest
JiM001
Guest
YerMother said:
you can get a sandwich plate to go between the block and filter.
i may have one for sale if you want it
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