If you get the FR you will just start getting all the bits to basically make it a cupra. It's probably as well to get the Cupra in the first place. Just depends on whether you want the higher insurance costs.
hey dead eye cheers for the reply, is that 189hp a proven result if so how much have thoose mods cost ya. seems good what sort of 0-60's and 1/4 miles you reckon you get
First had the car rolling roaded at Marlins with filter, pd160 intake and Milltek Catback. It pulled 143bhp and 256lb/ft. Had the remap at Ptorque and then had it rolling roaded at Superchips HQ getting the figure in my sig.
Green filter was £40
PD160 intake was about £46
Milltek was around the £270 mark but was done through a friend in the trade.
Remap was £225
No idea on ¼ mile times or 0-60. Been too busy looking at the road to worry about timings But it gave a PD160 Cupra a nasty suprise a couple of weeks back.
Id say your 1/4 figures are near on right, in theory a phase one one a perfect day with perfect shifts and no grip issue on a TDi Sport PD130 with a remap @ 180bhp and 290lb/ft's should hit a 14.55 I believe,
Most that have tried hit 15's and a lucky few hit lower 14.7's-14.9's
0-60 time so depends on grip doesnt it! Im sure if I timed mine this morning in the pooring rain, it would have been around 10 seconds!
Yeah the figures that day were a bit odd, though the cars without remaps and just simple mods did very well or were bang on the nose. But always as well to take it with a pinch of salt.
I would say go for the Cupra if your already planning on modding it. Only reason I could think for going for the FR is if you wanted a more comfortable car with a bit more bearable smoother suspension. Or maybe save a few quid on insurance/running costs.
The little extra's on the Cupra make it worth the extra, though I did get a good discount buying new on mine. The brakes are absolutely brilliant. Feel better than my Scooby which has 330mm 4 Pot Brembo's because the car is 200+ KG's lighter
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