Replacing Rear Springs
- Thread starter Mr Pig
- Start date
Yes, all you need to do is get both sides up onto axle stands then place a jack under each rear hub to support them while you remove the bottom bolt on each rear damper and with drop the jacks down and the springs will just be able to be lifted out if the car rear end was high enough up on the axle stands.
You should replace the bottom bolts and nuts. There is an alloy shim/washer under the rear springs, but I'd doubt if many people have actually ever seen them as the originals dissolve and all that is left will be white dust! I replaced them on my wife's 2002 Polo, just because I like doing things properly or as they were when first assembled.
You should replace the bottom bolts and nuts. There is an alloy shim/washer under the rear springs, but I'd doubt if many people have actually ever seen them as the originals dissolve and all that is left will be white dust! I replaced them on my wife's 2002 Polo, just because I like doing things properly or as they were when first assembled.
Rats. Just picked up the new springs etc but I didn't order new damper bolts. Just have to go with the old ones.
Yes, I've seen the alloy washer. I reckon its there to stop the end of the spring getting scratched which might lead to a stress fracture.
Can you do one side at a time? if you lower just one side will it drop enough to get the spring out? I've got two axle stands but only one trolley jack.
Yes, I've seen the alloy washer. I reckon its there to stop the end of the spring getting scratched which might lead to a stress fracture.
Can you do one side at a time? if you lower just one side will it drop enough to get the spring out? I've got two axle stands but only one trolley jack.
I've never tried to do one side at a time, that rear "axle" is a torsional device so it might be possible to twist one end of it enough to get a spring out, but I'd not bother doing it that way as you will be always be fighting against the axle trying to untwist itself.
Edit:- you will probably get off with only using one trolley jack, it is just easier using two.
Edit:- you will probably get off with only using one trolley jack, it is just easier using two.
My son is insistent that you can do one side at a time. My concern about jacking the middle of the beam is damaging something. I'm very wary about jacking on areas that aren't jacking points.
Talking of which, I need alternative jacking points so I can get the axle stands under the sill hard-points.
Talking of which, I need alternative jacking points so I can get the axle stands under the sill hard-points.
Jacking under the centre of the fragile beam is seriously dumb thing to suggest, what you are trying to do is, once the car is up on jack stands, is to control the dropping of the head hub points which happens when the damper bolt is removed, as well as aiding removing/fitting the bolt by getting things lined up as the damper will be hell bent in fully extending. The beam section is really only rotating and so not moving up and down much so very little point in jacking at its mid point once you have lifted the car up onto axle stands using sensible points like near the wheel hubs.
It's certainly not something I'd do. It's not a load bearing part, it could bend or distort, and the beam can slip on the jack relatively easily.
Yup. Completely agree with the guys above. Don't jack any modern car in the middle of the rear beam. You might get away with it but why take the chance because if you manage to bend it even by a very small amount that's going to be all your rear geometry up the spout and with no way to carry out adjustments a new axle will be the only "cure". I haven't actually worked on this particular vehicle yet but all the torsion beam rear axles I have worked on are pretty much the same so, If I was doing this with only one jack available I'd be jacking each side up and locating on axle stands under the body (in a suitably reinforced area) then, after removing the wheels and placing them on their sides under the sills as an extra precaution, put the jack under the end of the axle, jack up slightly, just enough to take the weight, on one side and undo the bottom shocker mount. Now you can lower the jack completely and repeat the exercise on the other side. You may need to press down on the axle a little to release the springs from the pans and you should be good to start reinstalling the new springs. At all times be wary of any tension in a spring, even quite a small amount of unrelieved compression can be surprisingly violent. I wouldn't be trying to take just one spring off with the shocker still restraining the suspension on the other side. Both shockers need to be disconnected to ensure there's nothing compressing the springs.
When you've finished leave the bottom shocker bolts slightly slack - maybe a half turn - and lower the car back onto the ground before finally tightening it up. Why? because if you fully tighten the bolt whilst the suspension is in full droop (unladen) it will slightly wind up the rubber of the eye bush and it will be likely to fail prematurely. It's generally good practice to treat all suspension bushes in this way.
When you've finished leave the bottom shocker bolts slightly slack - maybe a half turn - and lower the car back onto the ground before finally tightening it up. Why? because if you fully tighten the bolt whilst the suspension is in full droop (unladen) it will slightly wind up the rubber of the eye bush and it will be likely to fail prematurely. It's generally good practice to treat all suspension bushes in this way.
I knew about not tightening the bolts until the car is settled on the ground but I don't know if it's possible to reach both sides of the bolt. I'll check before the car gets jacked up. What I might have to do is sit the back wheels on wooden blocks or compress the rear suspension with the jack before sitting taking the car off the stands.
Many many years ago, a work mate handed his Lancia Delta into Stop and Steer at Piershill for new rear brakes, they seem to have used their "common sense" and lifted it or supported it by its Panhard link, that did not impress my mate one bit, so they paid to supply and replace that now bent link bar.
Luckily for me I made up a set of 4 solid wooden ramps, handy to improve access for that sort of thing.
Going back to your "compressing the rear suspension" I have started including "ride height check" to my list of annual service activities, now if you start doing that, you will have the correct figure for that Ibiza job final bolt torque'ng - no? I include in my service comments which wheels fitted and confirm that the pressure are correct - maybe I have too much time on my hands?
My point being wrt checking/recording ride heights, when or if a spring breaks or at least a bit breaks off one, the first thing that you notice will be the ride height, and so if you have your car's own previous figures, you can quickly check if they are still as before, same after replacing a pair of springs and starting to consider that the ride height is now a lot more or less than before - okay new springs will take a bit of time to settle, but even so, handy to have previously taken ride height figures taken on level ground with correct tyre pressure, to compare with.
This is something I was wondering about. My son's car an an Eco TSi which sits lower than a standard Ibiza. It actually sits about the same height as the FR but it is not the same springs, the FR springs are thicker.
To try and make sure I got the right springs I bought them from TPS but I'm still worried that the car might end up sitting too high at the back. I'm expecting it to sit a little high to begin with but how much is too much?
According to the Haynes manual for the Mk5 Ibiza, it does list standard models and FR model suspension ride height measurements front & rear, from 2008 to 2017.
(Front ride height)
Standard models 369mm
FR model 364mm
(Rear ride height)
Standard models 376mm
FR model 371mm
Also mentions that the rear shock absorber lower bolt is a load bearing shoulder bolt, which ideally it recommends should be replaced along with new nut, (think it's 8.8 high tensile shoulder bolt)
Torque setting is:
1) stage 1 = 40 Nm (30 Ib ft)
2) stage 2 = 90° turn
Lower shock shoulder bolt
Part number N90 517 304
from 2008 to 2017
But there's a choice on the nut that goes with above bolt, nylon lock nut, or collar nylon lock nut, or collar nut.
Nylon lock nut
Part number N10 295 101
From 2008 to mid 2011
Collar nylon lock nut
Part number N10 286 110
Up to mid part of 2011
Collar nut
Part number N10 332 002
From mid 2011 to 2017
Hope this helps
Si
(Front ride height)
Standard models 369mm
FR model 364mm
(Rear ride height)
Standard models 376mm
FR model 371mm
Also mentions that the rear shock absorber lower bolt is a load bearing shoulder bolt, which ideally it recommends should be replaced along with new nut, (think it's 8.8 high tensile shoulder bolt)
Torque setting is:
1) stage 1 = 40 Nm (30 Ib ft)
2) stage 2 = 90° turn
Lower shock shoulder bolt
Part number N90 517 304
from 2008 to 2017
But there's a choice on the nut that goes with above bolt, nylon lock nut, or collar nylon lock nut, or collar nut.
Nylon lock nut
Part number N10 295 101
From 2008 to mid 2011
Collar nylon lock nut
Part number N10 286 110
Up to mid part of 2011
Collar nut
Part number N10 332 002
From mid 2011 to 2017
Hope this helps
Si
That's some great info, thank you.
My son had 2014 Toca at the same time I had a 2016 FR and there was way more than 5mm of a difference in ride height. My other son's car, the one that's getting the springs, is a 2017 Ecomotive. One of the last made. The ride height on it is about the same as the FR but the springs and anti-roll bars are thinner.
You see variation. I reckon the manufacturers must change spec or use different suppliers as you see different examples of the same car with differing ride heights. I had a 2L TDi Golf GT which I thought looked really low. When I measured it and looked up the spec it turned out to have the same ride height as the Golf R. My wife and I have Leon FRs and there is a difference of about 10mm in ride height.
My son had 2014 Toca at the same time I had a 2016 FR and there was way more than 5mm of a difference in ride height. My other son's car, the one that's getting the springs, is a 2017 Ecomotive. One of the last made. The ride height on it is about the same as the FR but the springs and anti-roll bars are thinner.
You see variation. I reckon the manufacturers must change spec or use different suppliers as you see different examples of the same car with differing ride heights. I had a 2L TDi Golf GT which I thought looked really low. When I measured it and looked up the spec it turned out to have the same ride height as the Golf R. My wife and I have Leon FRs and there is a difference of about 10mm in ride height.
Yeah SEAT do like to change the specs on their cars quite often, plus I think on some models the main dealership can offer different option packages, including the suspension setup when purchasing the car new.
Looking on Etka it list's loads of different rear suspension spring options, looks like it identifies the springs with different coloured painted dots, I presume for different lengths and thicknesses of each spring, for 3 door & 5 door models as already mentioned by yourself.
I've got a 2015 Mk5 Ibiza myself which is the i-Tech model, this has fairly firm suspension as standard I presume close to the FR ?
I've driven a basic model Ibiza similar year to mine, and the suspension did feel a tad softer and looked like the car sat a bit higher then mine.
I think it must also come down to which engine is fitted and wheel size, plus like in your son's case if he's got one of the last Mk5 Ibiza's, SEAT or any car manufacturer do tend to fit the sportier options, I guess as it gets rid of old surplus stock parts, and well help to sell the car.
Like you say the variation in the same models is surprising i.e in your Leon FR and your wife's FR.
Si ?
Looking on Etka it list's loads of different rear suspension spring options, looks like it identifies the springs with different coloured painted dots, I presume for different lengths and thicknesses of each spring, for 3 door & 5 door models as already mentioned by yourself.
I've got a 2015 Mk5 Ibiza myself which is the i-Tech model, this has fairly firm suspension as standard I presume close to the FR ?
I've driven a basic model Ibiza similar year to mine, and the suspension did feel a tad softer and looked like the car sat a bit higher then mine.
I think it must also come down to which engine is fitted and wheel size, plus like in your son's case if he's got one of the last Mk5 Ibiza's, SEAT or any car manufacturer do tend to fit the sportier options, I guess as it gets rid of old surplus stock parts, and well help to sell the car.
Like you say the variation in the same models is surprising i.e in your Leon FR and your wife's FR.
Si ?
Strange the way that some times the different VW Group marques specify different part numbers for the same item.
I used VW when buying some parts including these bolts and nuts for a late 2009 Ibiza, I had to settle for a different nut as VW did not now use that item.
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