Stock boost 1.9 TDI ASV

[F3rAL]

Hello, everyone.

So I bought this leon a month ago and had nothing but problems with it.
As soon as I bought it, took the engine apart to find all 4 con rods bent, after changing them two days later turbo died, replaced it with used unit, that blew 1 week later, not replaced it with recon unit and still having my doubts if everything is ok or not.
I have nothing to compare this car to, but then my second turbo was boosting to 2 bar my car had so much power it was scary, but I know it was not right because of sticky vanes.
After I put recon turbo in there I still get boost to around 1.25bar spikes to 1.4bar or so.
Does anyone have what figure this ASV engine should be boosting at ? It is not remapped (not that i know of) decatted ( cat cut out and welded back, because it was full of soot).

Can anyone please help me, how much boost should I get ?
Thanks

 

[F3rAL]

Late bump, anyone has any ideas ?

 

[d1n93r]

best man to talk to is muttley. he had an asv 110. but what turbo did you put on. did you just replace it with the same one again or did u put a bigger one on. what history do you have on the car. ie miles, service history? could be that someone has changed the map sensor and put a bigger one in. gone from 2.5 to 4 bar. its strange that its bent all the rods. must have has some massive abuse cause these blocks normal stand up to of 350k. so goodness only knows what the previous owner has done. get us a few more detail and we can try and sort things out. and even post in the main section not a lot of traffic in here

 

[F3rAL]

Hi, thanks for your reply, I thought nobody can see my thread history is 112k miles, abused a lot judging from paintwork, some receipts, clutch, fly etc. I do not t think anybody did any performance mods on it, there is something wrong with it, because asv does not work and car boosts to 1.5bar sometimes, it is not very good for new turbo. Need someone with vcds in my area but noone wants to reply I don't know what else to do with it, power is there, but economy is rubbish 35mpg, but that could be because one od the injectors needs cleaning and timing was not correct, but that should not influence boosting or should it?

 

[Bondiblu]

Max set in the ECU should be 2050Bar absolute . As said you need to do some logs

 

[F3rAL]

Oh yeah and turbo is just a replacement not upgrade. The only reason for overboosting I can think of is remap, but I can not check requested vs actual boost without vcds, I might be wrong but normally it should be 0.9 BAR?

 

[F3rAL]

Anyone with vcds in east london would do it for beer?

 

[F3rAL]

Anyone can still help me with this ? Boost is spiking to 1.5BAR and no vanes are not stuck because it is reman unit.

 

[F3rAL]

Anyone point me in the right direction ? Adjusted vnt rod today and a stop screw, and not it is still boosting to 1.5 bar when water temp is not 90c but when it gets there it is boosting around 1.1bar. So what is happening ? I do not boost cold engine, oil was hot just water temp gone down while adjusting. Someone PLEASE help me.
What is stock pressure in ASV engine ? What is normal pressure for this turbo.
I used snapon scanner thingy and looked at some figures requested v actual and it was way off too high and boosting too early, I will scan it tonight again.
Thanks

 

[F3rAL]

Bumping again, still same problem

 

[d1n93r]

did u pm muttley

 

[d1n93r]

or speak to seatmann

 

[Seatmann]

Why not start from the beginning, what is actually wrong with the car?
Are you going into limp mode or something?
Are the vacuum pipes all ok and on the right way?
Have you had the car mapped and if so was it some cheap generic thing or custom?
Why did you not get a bigger turbo when replacing it? They can help get rid of spikes.
What's up with the asv? Vacuum pipe connected? Solenoid plugged in? Is the plastic arm broken?

I'm not sure exactly what your boost should be at but it should be around the same as the ALH, I'll have a nosey on the tdi club for info.

On a brighter note you have a good engine for tuning due to the piston design in the ASV Also these are usually very reliable strong engines and generally trouble free for the most part.


Bent rods suggest the turbo went before and the engine drank oil.

 

[Muttley]

Sorry, you are in the FAQ forum where I don't usually look. You could ask a moderator to move it into the Leon section, or the TDI engine section, where it will be more noticable.

What symptoms are you getting i.e. what is telling you that the car is not behaving properly. Come to that, how are you measuring boost? I presume an aftermarket boost gauge - are you sure it's plumbed in properly and is reading accurately?

What turbo is it that you've put on the car?

The only figure I can find for the ASV engine is 0.7-1.2 bar at 3000 rpm. You need to get someone with VCDS to check for fault codes and do some logs. The engine has had serious abuse to bend rods, so you need to check all the sensors. Otherwise we're in the dark. The ECU does diagnostics so you can get an idea of what's wrong - it would be foolish to start changing expensive components speculatively.

The N75 valve is one possible suspect, then the vacuum tubing. I assume you've been underneath and checked that the turbo actuator has full and free movement?

You said the ASV isn't working, which leads me to suspect the vacuum system. Check the lines from the vacuum pump and see if you can check that the pump is producing enough vacuum. Is there good vacuum assistance when you use the brakes?

The car has obviously had damage done to it, if all four rods were bent. That only happens if the car has been remapped or has run away. Cat blocked with soot kind of suggests runaway, or a turbo failure.

 

[F3rAL]

Hi muttley.
I have done "monitoring" of actual vs requested boost on Snap on and it was way too high and too early, so I adjusted rod screw 3 turn to make it longer. I changed N75 yesterday and I still get erratic boost, sometimes it goes to 1.5+ sometimes it stays at 1.2 bar. Turbo is a couple of weeks old, re manufactured unit, but what I saw with this that actuator does not close vanes properly anymore it sticks, 2 week old turbo :/
Vacuum tubing is all replaced and checked, egr and asv solenoids removed and all vacuum pipes blocked no vacuum leak, no boost leak.
1.2 BAR is what I was thinking but I just can not make it not overboost.
What is safe boost for my Turbo ? Thanks

 

[Muttley]

Safe boost isn't set by the turbo. The engine will take more boost - that's essentially what remapping does, increases boost and injects more fuel to give more bang.

Sounds like you've found the problem yourself, though. The actuator movement should be smooth, any sticking when not under load will cause problems on the road.

The vanes should start out fully open when the car is switched off, or if the vacuum is disconnected from the actuator. Wide open is the position for full revs, giving minimum acceleration to the gas flow into the turbine.

At lower revs the vanes are closed more and more to keep the gas speed up - with less rev's there's less gas, so narrowing the inlet to the turbine with the vanes makes the gas go faster, spinning the turbine up and keeping boost high.

Narrowing the turbine inlet has an effect on the engine, increasing back pressure, but this is more than compensated for by the boost, stuffing more air into the cylinder so it can burn more fuel. As long as the engine can stand it, more boost gives more power and better efficiency.

So you need to find out what's causing the actuator to stick. If you have the option, send it back to the seller and get a replacement.

 

[Bondiblu]

More fuel gives more power, but you need sufficient air to burn the fuel efficiently, that's where boost comes into play.

 

[F3rAL]

Yeah I thought about that and my mechanic said that, too much fuel going in, we do not know why yet. Could be pump on its way out.
I have another problem when I start the car in the morning after night it smokes like a bloody volcano, it's unburnt diesel, blue smoke. So it could be head gasket to thick (2.4mm) injector pissing or pump.
I have a lot of power and that eliminates all of these ? So I do not know now, I will need to wait for my mechanic to get second hand pump and see how it goes if not that we will change HG tfrom 2.4mm to 1.5mm and that might fix the problem. When car is started I get a lot of smoke and shaky engine with no power, 20 seconds later everything is fine, no smoke when accelerating, does it sound like pump problem ?

 

[Seatmann]

Blue smoke isn't so good, that's usually turbo seals but white or black is to much fuel. I don't think changing your pump will do anything except waste time tbh. If you are going that route though any pump from the ASV, AGR or ALH with a manual box fits fine. If you're planning on tuning then you could get the pump from an automatic as they're 11mm instead of the standard 10mm.

Having power doesn't eliminate anything really, could just be over fueling but I'd be looking more at the injectors for that.


Where's the pump timing and IQ at? Any juddering at idle?

 

[F3rAL]

Ok so let me get this straight. If turbo seals are gone it would smoke all the time, even though turbo is almost new.
If injectors are pissing there would be no power or smoke when accelerating unburnt diesel. So what could be the problem with starting? All cylinders 26BAR compression, could it be that head gasket is too thick? The one on there is 2.4mm and should be 1.5mm and there is not enough compression for diesel to explode on cold engine? Or is it pump problem overfueling and after starting 20 seconds later it adjust itself or just warms up?