Stuttering leon 20VT
- Thread starter Tobester
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Forcedinduction
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I've fitted the n75 J, it has improved things as the sudden power loss is controlled more. So its improved the symptoms but not provided the cure. Which other sensors are there, it has to be something related to the induction, I wish I had VAGCOM to see what the ECU is reporting when it happens.
The n75 controls the wastegate actuator, the j is from the 225 engine so I believe it can regulate higher boosts better.
I was thinking of trying to reset the ECU, can this be done just by disconnecting the battery?
The n75 controls the wastegate actuator, the j is from the 225 engine so I believe it can regulate higher boosts better.
I was thinking of trying to reset the ECU, can this be done just by disconnecting the battery?
Mine does this too, only for about the first minute after it's been turned on.
I'd really like to sort it before it gets any worse!!
Also... if i install an n75j in my car (LC+revo) how will it affect it. Obviously the map was written for the standard n75... will it cause a larger boost spike?
I'd really like to sort it before it gets any worse!!
Also... if i install an n75j in my car (LC+revo) how will it affect it. Obviously the map was written for the standard n75... will it cause a larger boost spike?
Forcedinduction said:
I have vag-com and this "issue". No fault codes are generated. Might try and use vag-com scope to get some graphs from it.
Disconnecting the battery for a period of time will perform the throttle body alignment, and resets the ecu AFAIK. Hasnt helped my idling problem.
I was actually thinking of increasing the idle rpm speed? Would this help, or even, would this cause any problems? I believe it is set at 720rpm, and i know some vag owners have set it to 800 or so.
Im getting 2 temperature sensors replaced by SEAT at the weekend because they think that could be the cause of this. Will report back on monday...
Some thoughts on this.
Caveats. Due to the nature of the adaptive ECU I've thought I've found solutions before but then they return, however, so far so good. As you can see I run the (when standard) 180 lump. I'm not sure of all the various SEAT versions, sorry. My car has always been a dog when clock cold but 5 minutes and it's fine, I'm talking about when the car is run in here. It's a Skoda
Now, does this sound familiar? For example I'm accelerating, I'm in third, I'm doing about 40. The traffic suddenly slows and I drop down to second, the revs drop to below the point the turbo is kicking in, say 12-1500rpm, as I let the clutch back out and try to pick up speed again the car stutters and then picks up. Sometimes the stutter is more pronounced and is a genuine, full on flat spot. It picks up for a second then seems to flatten out, then goes again. All this makes town driving a bit of a chore but you can drive around the problem by generally using more revs. But that isn't a solution. There is something wrong.
I've had all the above for about 18 months and it was driving me mad. As it turned out I actually had two problems.
Firstly, my Forge DV was FURBAR. We (me and Kev at JBS) had never really considered the DV because, well, it was Forge. As it turned out the spring was yellow (stronger) than the standard green and as I spend most of my time pootling around town the delivery was a little harsh. Also, somehow, the DV was full of general grot and metal filings from the top of the spring where it was rubbing on the housing. Changing the DV (we didn't have a maintenance kit to hand) transformed the power delivery. It was like driving another car. The full on flat spots had now gone.
Secondly, even after changing the DV, I noticed the stutter was creeping back. The car always seemed to improve after doing a throttle body alignment so I guessed the problem must be related. So back to JBS to have the throttle body cleaned. It looked simple enough but I know my limits Basically the unit comes off, a liberal spray with carb cleaner and a wipe and then back on. Kev realigned everything again and so far the car has been as good as gold.
If any of this does sound familiar forget your MAF, N75, coilpacks etc etc. I've changed them all and only changing (or servicing) the DV and cleaning the throttle body have made a difference.
Sorry for the long post
Caveats. Due to the nature of the adaptive ECU I've thought I've found solutions before but then they return, however, so far so good. As you can see I run the (when standard) 180 lump. I'm not sure of all the various SEAT versions, sorry. My car has always been a dog when clock cold but 5 minutes and it's fine, I'm talking about when the car is run in here. It's a Skoda
Now, does this sound familiar? For example I'm accelerating, I'm in third, I'm doing about 40. The traffic suddenly slows and I drop down to second, the revs drop to below the point the turbo is kicking in, say 12-1500rpm, as I let the clutch back out and try to pick up speed again the car stutters and then picks up. Sometimes the stutter is more pronounced and is a genuine, full on flat spot. It picks up for a second then seems to flatten out, then goes again. All this makes town driving a bit of a chore but you can drive around the problem by generally using more revs. But that isn't a solution. There is something wrong.
I've had all the above for about 18 months and it was driving me mad. As it turned out I actually had two problems.
Firstly, my Forge DV was FURBAR. We (me and Kev at JBS) had never really considered the DV because, well, it was Forge. As it turned out the spring was yellow (stronger) than the standard green and as I spend most of my time pootling around town the delivery was a little harsh. Also, somehow, the DV was full of general grot and metal filings from the top of the spring where it was rubbing on the housing. Changing the DV (we didn't have a maintenance kit to hand) transformed the power delivery. It was like driving another car. The full on flat spots had now gone.
Secondly, even after changing the DV, I noticed the stutter was creeping back. The car always seemed to improve after doing a throttle body alignment so I guessed the problem must be related. So back to JBS to have the throttle body cleaned. It looked simple enough but I know my limits
Basically the unit comes off, a liberal spray with carb cleaner and a wipe and then back on. Kev realigned everything again and so far the car has been as good as gold.If any of this does sound familiar forget your MAF, N75, coilpacks etc etc. I've changed them all and only changing (or servicing) the DV and cleaning the throttle body have made a difference.
Sorry for the long post
Similar issues here - picked up by a RR at Aldon Automotive before remap, and now i notice it a fair bit - First is fine if you progressively press on, but dump the pedal (with Traction Control off) and there is slight hesitation (1/3 of a second), slight power, then it dies a bit, then all hell breaks loose and there is the usuall wheelspin and takeoff.
The mechanics made a point of it at Aldon, but to be honest, but it dioesnt bother me really, i seldom dump the accelarator because of the mental spin and vibration with traction control off; and with it on the power dies anyway because of the extra kick from the REVO 4 bar map.
Weird, my old fiesta si used to do this, but my old pug gti was like a rocket in first, with no hesitation at all.
The mechanics made a point of it at Aldon, but to be honest, but it dioesnt bother me really, i seldom dump the accelarator because of the mental spin and vibration with traction control off; and with it on the power dies anyway because of the extra kick from the REVO 4 bar map.
Weird, my old fiesta si used to do this, but my old pug gti was like a rocket in first, with no hesitation at all.
mine took a turn for the worse today. but i can now recreate the problem (and it ain't good to do so).
basically, when i start the car from cold, then try and drive away without revving it too much, the engine just dies. it doesnt stall, but instead idles at about 450 - 500 rpm. nothing at all can revive it from this, apart from turning it off and starting again.
absolutely lethal, especially when pulling out of side roads. is THIS the same problem as is discussed here, or is the problem being discussed the low speed drivability issue (unsmooth power delivery when driving slowly). p.s. i have that problem too from time to time.
basically, when i start the car from cold, then try and drive away without revving it too much, the engine just dies. it doesnt stall, but instead idles at about 450 - 500 rpm. nothing at all can revive it from this, apart from turning it off and starting again.
absolutely lethal, especially when pulling out of side roads. is THIS the same problem as is discussed here, or is the problem being discussed the low speed drivability issue (unsmooth power delivery when driving slowly). p.s. i have that problem too from time to time.
just wanted to bump this thread...
my car went for the MOT today. it passed, but on the way home the idle problem went spaz. i couldnt let the car idle at all, otherwise i couldnt start again. had to use the handbrake to slow in traffic and hold it at 2000rpm.
so the aa man came out, and gave the throttle body a quick clean with carb cleaner. he wouldnt take the throttle body off, as he didnt want to break the gasket. so i need to buy a spare gasket and clean it properly.
but the cleaning he did made it run a lot better. i'm happy for now.
he did mention that 1.8T engines dont run very well at idle, because they cant get enough air in. this is by design.
my car went for the MOT today. it passed, but on the way home the idle problem went spaz. i couldnt let the car idle at all, otherwise i couldnt start again. had to use the handbrake to slow in traffic and hold it at 2000rpm.
so the aa man came out, and gave the throttle body a quick clean with carb cleaner. he wouldnt take the throttle body off, as he didnt want to break the gasket. so i need to buy a spare gasket and clean it properly.
but the cleaning he did made it run a lot better. i'm happy for now.
he did mention that 1.8T engines dont run very well at idle, because they cant get enough air in. this is by design.
QMA
Guest
QMA said:
hmmm, strange as so many people have this very issue. The cupra R doesnt, but the cupra does. I know lots of people who have suffered this. I have had throttle body etc cleaned to make sure all is ok, and it did run better for a while, admittedly.
Think i might have to learn to do this myself at some point...
i am so glad i am not the only one with this problem .
i got a 2001 20vt and it idles lumpy and some times the revs drop to the point of cutting out changed to a forge 007 ,n75j ,and new maf also the car is chipped
if i boot the car from cold i dont get limp mode and it runs ok if i wait for the car to warm up it idles crap when in traffic and i sometimes get limp mode
and to top it all sometimes when in traffic waiting for the car to warm up the temp needle will shoot up to 90 and then instanly go back to 0 it sometimes does this 2-3 times .......
getting to the point where im using my bike more and am thinking about selling
i got a 2001 20vt and it idles lumpy and some times the revs drop to the point of cutting out changed to a forge 007 ,n75j ,and new maf also the car is chipped
if i boot the car from cold i dont get limp mode and it runs ok if i wait for the car to warm up it idles crap when in traffic and i sometimes get limp mode
and to top it all sometimes when in traffic waiting for the car to warm up the temp needle will shoot up to 90 and then instanly go back to 0 it sometimes does this 2-3 times .......
getting to the point where im using my bike more and am thinking about selling
Pabs said:
Hi Pabs
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html
Says that a TBA should be done after the battery has been disconnected and reconnected.
Give it a spin
I noticed a difference in throttle response
yeh, thats what i meant
Disconnect the battery for 4 or 5 mins - then on reconnection and ignition on a tba should occur.
Disconnect the battery for 4 or 5 mins - then on reconnection and ignition on a tba should occur.
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