Sump plug question

GS16LRHP

Active Member
Feb 17, 2014
247
3
Hi all,

I have a question about the sump plug for a 1.0 TSI (110 PS) engine (code CHZC)
When I had my car serviced last year I see that the invoice lists a sump plug N9028890 and a washer N0138157.

When I search for compatible parts for the engine, I also see sump plug N90813202 mentioned which has an integrated washer, for example the following link displays two different types of sump plug in the third image:

EKTA also displays N9028890 and a washer N0138157 for the sump plug and that engine code, but I don't see N90813202 listed.

Are there any differences between the two different sump plugs mentioned above?

Thanks
 

SEAT Rule

Active Member
Nov 19, 2019
188
62
Hello there,

looks like the slightly smaller sump plug with part number N90 288 901 was used on VAG vehicles from 1975 up to roughly early 2002 or 2003, on 1.0 litre engines and above, but they had an abundance left over in stock, which is possibly why on Etka it can sometimes list the old part number above on VAG vehicles after 2003 onwards.

Also the above sump plug uses the most common washer, a copper flat washer part number N0138492 from 1975 to roughly 2013 this is the most common washer used with above sump plug.

Also the above sump plug uses a compression copper or alloy washer which needs replacing every time the plug is unscrewed. Washer part number N0138157 this is used on the later VAG vehicles from roughly 2010 onwards, plus I think is used on Peugeot & Citroen engine's from early/mid 1990s onwards.


The other slightly longer sump plug with part number N90 813 202 this comes complete with an integrated washer, I think this new replacement part number possibly supersedes the older one that ends 288 901 from roughly 2002 onwards, but like I say this new part number and the older one above, they did run alongside each other for some years after 2003.

Also there was another sump plug which was used from roughly 2001 onwards part number N0160276 this has a Allan key (used on 1.2 litre engines up to 2.0)
this plug normally uses the flat copper washer = N0138492
But I have seen them with the compression copper/alloy washer also = N0138157



All the above sump plugs are M14 and thread pitch is 1.5mm, the differences between N90 288 901 and N90 813 202 are minimal it's just one has a separate washer you replace, and the other has an integrated washer, you can fit either one on your engine I believe.

N90 288 901 = 19mm hex head plug
plus has choice of two washers depending on engine and year.

N90 813 202 = 19mm to 22mm hex head plug, this has integrated washer.

N0160276 = 12mm Allen key plug
normally used with flat copper washer, but sometimes can have the compression type.


Hope this helps
Si
 
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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
536
145
Good Morning. My old 1.9tdi Cordoba (with the VE engine, steel sump) used the short plug with copper washer. Both my boy's Fabia 1.9 PD's and my 2016 CHZB engine's 95 hp 3 cylinder Ibiza used/use the same longer plug with the captive washer as, I think, did his 1.6Cr engined Fabia Scout. The only comment I would make is that, as most now have ally sumps and are somewhat prone to stripped threads if abused (always tighten with a torque wrench to minimize this risk) I favour the longer plug. Although I do buy a new plug each time, as recommended, I notice the old plug always looks as good as new when removed and I suspect could be reused.
 
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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
536
145
Oh dear. I just keep on finding more things to worry me about my Ibiza's wee 1.0 3 cylinder CHZB engine. She's going to get her cam belt renewed at her next service time (Easter next year when she will be 5 years old)

As many will know this new(ish) EA211 engine series does not have it's water pump integrated into the cambelt drive train - It's actually on the "back end" of the cylinder head - flywheel end - and is driven by it's own wee synchronous belt. Of course this means that should it pack in it's not going to potentially right off the valve gear/engine (as long as you "catch it" before the engine cooks off).

The trouble is I've become so used to automatically doing a water pump when changing a cam belt that it's seeming strange not to do one this time? Seat don't quote a change interval as far as I'm aware, and why should they? The engines of old, including my VE engined 1.9tdi Cordoba, were the same and you just kept an eye on coolant level and weeping from the pump.

Anyway, feeling "nervous" about it I've been researching how easy it is to do the pump and I've come upon the attached guidance. I know these engines have separate coolant circulation for head and block and it's very interesting to see there are actually two thermostats to control this - oh dear, more "needless" complexity and "stuff" to go wrong? It's very interesting also to read that there are leakage problems due to warping of the plastic housing. I've recently had a very interesting time trying to sort an oil leak on my boy's '07 Astra 1600 VVT. After struggling valiantly with new seals etc I discovered, by talking to our local Vauxhall indy that these plastic covers are famous, not only for warping but also for the built in PCV valve to stop working - which causes running problems. Don't struggle with it, just fit a new cover complete! Is it just me that thinks a plastic component heated up to "pretty hot and then some" is going to distort? Forgone conclusion I would say?

So. Have a read of the attached and start to feel sorry for me. I knew I should have bought that 1.8 ivtec estate instead?
 

Attachments

  • 1.4 TSI EA211 Coolant pump.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 403

SEAT Rule

Active Member
Nov 19, 2019
188
62
Good Morning. My old 1.9tdi Cordoba (with the VE engine, steel sump) used the short plug with copper washer. Both my boy's Fabia 1.9 PD's and my 2016 CHZB engine's 95 hp 3 cylinder Ibiza used/use the same longer plug with the captive washer as, I think, did his 1.6Cr engined Fabia Scout. The only comment I would make is that, as most now have ally sumps and are somewhat prone to stripped threads if abused (always tighten with a torque wrench to minimize this risk) I favour the longer plug. Although I do buy a new plug each time, as recommended, I notice the old plug always looks as good as new when removed and I suspect could be reused.

Yeah that's a good shout regarding torquing up your sump plug, and yes some sumps are alloy also.

From what I've read through some of the manuals I have, the metal sumps on the VAG vehicles from 1975 up to 2002 with 1.0 litre to 2.8/2.9 litre engines using shorter sump plug N90 288 901 the torque setting is: 30Nm to 31Nm (22 ft Ib to 22.8 ft Ib) depending which washer you're using, i.e copper / alloy compression single use type or flat copper washer.

****************************************

Also regarding the slightly longer sump plug with integrated washer N90 813 202 this has various torque settings for metal sump and alloy sump, plus engine size, as pointed out by Mr Crossthreaded ?

1.0 litre up to 2.8 litre engine with metal sump 2002 onwards, torque setting 30Nm to 32Nm (22 Ib ft to 23.6 ft Ib) MAX no more.

With alloy sump 1.0 litre up to 3.2 litre engines 1999 onwards 30Nm (22 ft Ib) MAX no more.

****************************************

Sump plug N0160276 I think is normally used on the alloy sumps on the larger VAG engines, from 2001 onwards 2.8 litre to 4.2 litre.
Torque setting 30Nm (22 ft Ib) MAX no more.

Hope this helps
Si
 

SEAT Rule

Active Member
Nov 19, 2019
188
62
Oh dear. I just keep on finding more things to worry me about my Ibiza's wee 1.0 3 cylinder CHZB engine. She's going to get her cam belt renewed at her next service time (Easter next year when she will be 5 years old)

As many will know this new(ish) EA211 engine series does not have it's water pump integrated into the cambelt drive train - It's actually on the "back end" of the cylinder head - flywheel end - and is driven by it's own wee synchronous belt. Of course this means that should it pack in it's not going to potentially right off the valve gear/engine (as long as you "catch it" before the engine cooks off).

The trouble is I've become so used to automatically doing a water pump when changing a cam belt that it's seeming strange not to do one this time? Seat don't quote a change interval as far as I'm aware, and why should they? The engines of old, including my VE engined 1.9tdi Cordoba, were the same and you just kept an eye on coolant level and weeping from the pump.

Anyway, feeling "nervous" about it I've been researching how easy it is to do the pump and I've come upon the attached guidance. I know these engines have separate coolant circulation for head and block and it's very interesting to see there are actually two thermostats to control this - oh dear, more "needless" complexity and "stuff" to go wrong? It's very interesting also to read that there are leakage problems due to warping of the plastic housing. I've recently had a very interesting time trying to sort an oil leak on my boy's '07 Astra 1600 VVT. After struggling valiantly with new seals etc I discovered, by talking to our local Vauxhall indy that these plastic covers are famous, not only for warping but also for the built in PCV valve to stop working - which causes running problems. Don't struggle with it, just fit a new cover complete! Is it just me that thinks a plastic component heated up to "pretty hot and then some" is going to distort? Forgone conclusion I would say?

So. Have a read of the attached and start to feel sorry for me. I knew I should have bought that 1.8 ivtec estate instead?

That's a good read that water pump guide you've found, if you're keeping your car long term then I'd be inclined to get the water pump done including it's drive belt at the same time as the cam belt, especially if the pumps are known for weak seals, and plastic flange housing assembly faces warping, it could be a nightmare if only the cam belt is changed, and then a few months down the line the pump goes or starts leaking.

To be honest having anything made out of plastic that's exposed to excessive heat for long periods of time, from inlet manifolds to water pumps to breather recirculation housings, is asking for trouble as they'll crack/distort so much easier then say a alloy manifold or housing, yes plastic is much lighter and possibly cheaper, but doesn't last anywhere near as long as alloy.

It's mad that most car manufacturers are making these vital parts out of cheap materials more and more now.

Si
 
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