• Hey Guest👍👎 We're looking for reviews of your local CUPRA or SEAT Dealership - it's quick and easy to do: Leave a review now

peter_cupra197

Active Member
Jun 29, 2008
414
0
cambridgeshire
hi all, i went to fit my de-cat today and funnily enough something goes wrong lol anyway i went to undo the four downpipe studs and all of them are locked on solid they "crack off" but are so tight if i tried any harder they would definantly snap! any ideas guys? and if worst case scenario what would i have to do/replace if they snap thanks....
 
First thing to do is get some Plus Gas or WD40 on them and leave them overnight (or 24 hrs if you dont need the car and re apply it after the first 12 hrs) then in the morning get a small stiff bristle wire brush and clean as much of the corrosion off the studs as you can.

Once this is done the nuts should start to move but dont try and wind them off in one hit turn them till they nip up then a further 180' then turn them back 360' (this method cleares all the crap out much the same as if you were cutting a new thread), then repeat this process and with a bit of luck they will come off, apply plenty of WD40 or similar whilst you are doing this.
 
have you made a wobblie spanner to get to them?

This is the on i made and it worked a treat.
IMG_0302.jpg
 
as said above, once you do get them off get new ones. I put copper grease on them too when I put them back in making it easier to get them off again.
 
i have new ones allready unfortunantly with work and gti springfest this weekend didnt have time to have a go :( but will attempt this at the weekend just a quick question if i have a new turbo to go on if they snap what will i have to replace as i have the fitting kit with the turbo will i have to replace manifold? thanks
 
yes heating them up will work. as long as you heat the nut only. this will cause it to expand and make it easier.

tried and tested. if you dont like it then you know where the door is
 
yes heating them up will work. as long as you heat the nut only. this will cause it to expand and make it easier.

tried and tested. if you dont like it then you know where the door is

This method will only work if the stud corrosion is not to bad if they are badly corroded then you can heat the nuts all you like but they will bind up eventually if the threads are not clear.

Still worth a go though if the studs are in good condition, but mine were not they were just a mass of rust and crap you could hardly see it was a stud. But once all cleaned off no heat was required to free the nuts off.
 
This method will only work if the stud corrosion is not to bad if they are badly corroded then you can heat the nuts all you like but they will bind up eventually if the threads are not clear.

Still worth a go though if the studs are in good condition, but mine were not they were just a mass of rust and crap you could hardly see it was a stud. But once all cleaned off no heat was required to free the nuts off.

agreed. but by heating up the nut it expands it enough to ease it off. was like this when we did myki's. and when i worked as a mechanic at fords we did this all the time. good old oxy. i do use the wd40 first but i love the fire so heating them up is a must
 
looking at it im not sure if you could fit a blow torch etc. down the back off the engine :help: i have started to spray them every night now gonna try tommorrow as im off work
 
agreed. but by heating up the nut it expands it enough to ease it off. was like this when we did myki's. and when i worked as a mechanic at fords we did this all the time. good old oxy. i do use the wd40 first but i love the fire so heating them up is a must

I remember watching an apprentice heating a seized rear bottom shock absorber bolt and the oil exploding :lol:
 
aaaarrrrgggghhh!!!! [:@] tried doing these today after soaking them in wd-40 last night and this morning two came off (nut only) and two are solid!!! i dont have access to a blow torch or simular unfortunantly so what are my options now garage??? thanks. Peter :help: