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gregs
Guest
I had the same problem yesterday morning with my 110. Battery only had enough juice to fire the starter a few times. Put the jump leads on, and I had to leave them on for an hour before it had enough charge to fire up. I don't know if it's normal for a non-pd engine, but it doesn't like starting in the cold, although my parents new Focus isn't much better when it drops below -10.
gregs wrote
hi folks please help! my toledo 110 tdi wont start it seems like a bad battery but i put jump leads on her n it still wnt go whines and kicks a bit but then whines and not turnin over the engine just the starter whinin any help much appreciated!!!
Is the engine turning over past compression i.e. is it chugging, trying to start? If the starter is just whining but unable to turn the engine past compression, I'd say your battery was on the way out. Low temperatures reduce the amount of power a battery can put out, so winter is when most battery failure becomes apparant.
You'll need very thick jump leads and good contact with the donor car (which should have its engine running). Diesels take a lot of power to turn over: they always have bigger batteries than a similar petrol car.
hi folks please help! my toledo 110 tdi wont start it seems like a bad battery but i put jump leads on her n it still wnt go whines and kicks a bit but then whines and not turnin over the engine just the starter whinin any help much appreciated!!!
Is the engine turning over past compression i.e. is it chugging, trying to start? If the starter is just whining but unable to turn the engine past compression, I'd say your battery was on the way out. Low temperatures reduce the amount of power a battery can put out, so winter is when most battery failure becomes apparant.
You'll need very thick jump leads and good contact with the donor car (which should have its engine running). Diesels take a lot of power to turn over: they always have bigger batteries than a similar petrol car.
gregs
Guest
new info folks tried a brand new battery and still no luck!! could the starter be away?????if he starter is away can i start her on a tow??
gregs
Guest
no mate shes not goin past compression well it does once wen shes on the jump leads then just whines!! think its the starter whinin i tried a brand new battery from local motorfactors and shes still doin the same thing ive checked the timin belt its still there lol could a tow start her??
The ASV's injector timing is set by the toothed belt, so bump-starting may be possible. I'd hate to do it, though, the strain on the clutch and gearbox of trying to turn over a 19.5-1 compression ratio will be fierce. Cars with ECU's are generally a bit dubious to bump-start, as you risk any special "start-up" functions within the ECU not being engaged.
However, if your starter is not turning over the engine then generally either the starter is shot or the battery is not man enough. One other possibilty is that the earth straps connecting the engine to the body amd battery to body are worn or the attachments are corroded, which will limit the current that can be applied to the starter. Check all your earth straps, the one from the battery to the car body and those from the body to the engine/gearbox. The engine is on rubber mountings, so the earth straps are the only way the circuit can be completed. You should look for corrosion at the mounting points at both ends of each strap, and to see if the straps/cables are fraying. As I've already said, the starter needs a lot of current, which means you need large conductors with good connections.
I did once have the battery strap simply break on a 1.9 TDI Ibiza. Park up at the supermarket with no difficulty, come out to take the shopping home and nothing. The clue for me was a complete lack of electrics, which hinted at a failure at the battery.
However, if your starter is not turning over the engine then generally either the starter is shot or the battery is not man enough. One other possibilty is that the earth straps connecting the engine to the body amd battery to body are worn or the attachments are corroded, which will limit the current that can be applied to the starter. Check all your earth straps, the one from the battery to the car body and those from the body to the engine/gearbox. The engine is on rubber mountings, so the earth straps are the only way the circuit can be completed. You should look for corrosion at the mounting points at both ends of each strap, and to see if the straps/cables are fraying. As I've already said, the starter needs a lot of current, which means you need large conductors with good connections.
I did once have the battery strap simply break on a 1.9 TDI Ibiza. Park up at the supermarket with no difficulty, come out to take the shopping home and nothing. The clue for me was a complete lack of electrics, which hinted at a failure at the battery.
gregs
Guest
all the electrics are fine mate i will double check all those wen i get home later im out of other ideas the reason im not sure its the starter is wen i turn the key i can c the timing belt move! does this not indicate the starter is fine?? ill give it one try on the rope and c how it goes if not tow to mechanics and new starter to try and go from there!! i did get a brand new battery yest and it made no difference at all! still same one kick and then whining noise
One problem I had with my old tdi was a seized alternator pulley. Stopped at traffic lights and engine cut out. I could not restart the engine at all.
Called AA and he thought the timing belt had gone. He soon realised the alternator pulley was seized, cut the auxerially belt off and it started perfectly.
Called AA and he thought the timing belt had gone. He soon realised the alternator pulley was seized, cut the auxerially belt off and it started perfectly.
gregs
Guest
gregs
Guest
A slipped timing belt would make for rough running, but would not cause the failure of the starter to turn the engine over compression. Timing belt slippage is not likely, unless you have other reasons for thinking so. If the tensioner is failing then it might be possible. When was the timing belt last changed and was the tensioner changed at the same time? And also, what mileage are you on?
gregs
Guest
unsure of timin belt history recently bought car belts nice n tight n all teeth in nice. car has 113k on her i used a vag com on her and got unkown code 1314 googled it and it said ecm wat the hell is that??? put a reconned starter in today no difference kicks once then just whines timin belt and fan belt turnin away all the time!!
Use the Ross-Tech wiki to find out what any fault code means.
In this case
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314
The ECM is the processor that controls all the engine functions. Code 1314 indicates that there is no communication to it, so no wonder your engine won't start. Check the connector first.
In this case
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314
The ECM is the processor that controls all the engine functions. Code 1314 indicates that there is no communication to it, so no wonder your engine won't start. Check the connector first.
Yes, the starter would crank the engine quite happily with the ECU disconnected, it's just brute force.
The ECU is under the plastic scuttle, on the drivers side. You'll need to get the wipers off, then the plastic scuttle moulding (which diverts rainwater runoff from the windscreen to either side of the engine compartment). If this is cracked or broken, letting water onto the ECU, this could be part of the problem. The wipers may need a puller to get them off the tapered shafts.
ECU's are expensive and need adapting to the car. Hopefully all you have is a loose connector or a bit of corrosion: ECU's rarely fail.
The ECU is under the plastic scuttle, on the drivers side. You'll need to get the wipers off, then the plastic scuttle moulding (which diverts rainwater runoff from the windscreen to either side of the engine compartment). If this is cracked or broken, letting water onto the ECU, this could be part of the problem. The wipers may need a puller to get them off the tapered shafts.
ECU's are expensive and need adapting to the car. Hopefully all you have is a loose connector or a bit of corrosion: ECU's rarely fail.
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