Why are rear axle bushes so DAMN difficult to fit lol

Mar 18, 2011
583
2
Teesside
Got my new oem bushes the other day and decided this morning to fit them, (or try) so started at lunchtime, dont have luxury of ramps so got car up on axle stands, released the shock absorber and took out spring and then undone the axle bolt, internal of old bush fell out, rest was a complete pain, might aswell of been welded in. Had to hacksaw the outer layer and i snapped two screwdrivers whilst prying the old steel shell out, cleaned inside and thought lets go and lubed it up with some washing up liquid (all i had) and would it buggery go in, not even a mm, so borrowed a threaded bar me mate used on my mums astra, and a old cam wheel and some washers and nuts, so then lined everything up and away i go, got it about 2 n a bit inches in and it wouldnt move any further started pushing nuts off the threaded bar, so i got stressed and hit it a few times with a bashing stick, unfortunately all this did was crack the outer lip of the bush, so i gave up and thought that it should be in enough to line it up and allow it to move further in as the car is being driven. Even that was a pain in the rear end, but got it back in and all rebuilt car is still clunking but i think thats the rear shockers,

Main reason for my sob story is i spent 6 hours on the O/S bush and havnt touched N/S yet, i think i should be able to remove the N/S quicker than before but i still have doubts on fitting new one, obviously i need to a new threaded bar and some new nuts but does anyone have any advice on getting it in better than i have done?
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
That's one reason why I went for the Powerflex ones rather than OEM. Powerflex don't use the outer casing, so they're much easier to fit. Sounds like taking them out was about right, I am also expecting that outer layer to be an SOB. I have a few cold chisels to hand for that one!

I found with the front wishbone bush if you actually crease the outer layer rather than cut it, you can pull it towards the centre and it 'peels' off the outside. I don't know whether the same will work on the rear but it's what I will be trying.
 
Mar 18, 2011
583
2
Teesside
Well i didnt get all the way through with the hacksaw was taking too long so uses flat head screwdriver as a chisel and when i finally got through i then tapped it out, just cant believe its so hard fitting new ones, only reason i bought oem was that powerflex ones probably wont benefit me, i drive upto 3000miles a month and want a comfortable ride, which atm im not getting, not just cos of the bushes but my shocks av seen better days and my springs are corroded as well
 

rk696

Full Member
Aug 16, 2007
683
0
West Yorkshire
When I did mine on the octavia, I used a threaded bar, some nuts and some 5mm ally sheet to press it in.

Got it about 2.5 inches in, and had to use a sledgehammer with a hockey puck over the bush to get it the rest of the way in.

They are really tight, as I managed to bend the ally sheet.

It's the best feeling when you finish one, until you realise you have the other side to do lol.
 
Mar 18, 2011
583
2
Teesside
You are sooo right, lol i been using a m10 threaded bar a old cam wheel and nuts and washers, but the threads were a little worn from previous use so they slipped, didnt have a sledge hammer handy so i hit it dead with a hammer and i dont half regret it, specially after breaking the lip partly, hope it dont affect it too much as a dont fancy shellin out another 20odd quid and another 7hours hard graft specially after all the cuts and bruised knuckles i have already
 

rk696

Full Member
Aug 16, 2007
683
0
West Yorkshire
What bushes are they?

I fitted the LCR ones, and managed to break the plastic on it (with the sledge hammer lol). By the look of it, it is only a dust cover anyway, and hasn't affected it at all. The bushes have grease inside, and I think the plastic cover is to stop it getting out. Don't think it's that important, as the standard ones have grease in too, but don't have the plastic cover on them.
 

danny m

Active Member
Apr 16, 2009
321
0
want to change mine on my LCR at the weekend. had a quick look under the car today did you have any problems get the drivers side bolt out (the one that goes throught the bush itself) doesnt look like theres enough room to slide the bolt out. did you have to undo the four bolts the bolt the beam bracket to the car? i take it all you have to do is undo the two bolts that go through the bushes and then the two that bolt the shock to the beam? i take it then the beam is hanging allowing you to take the old ones out? do you have to disconnet the brake lines? reason im asking is obviously there will be more strain on them.
 

danny m

Active Member
Apr 16, 2009
321
0
ok cool so you didnt need to undo the 4 bolts (beam bracket) either side then, the two through bolts came out ok. what about the brake pipes?
 

danny m

Active Member
Apr 16, 2009
321
0
ok cheers for that i think i may aswell drop the whole axle and get it under the fly press at work i have a vaccum brake bleeder to redo the brakes
 

rk696

Full Member
Aug 16, 2007
683
0
West Yorkshire
Don't remove the four bolts holding the bracket on, as they're adjustable, and wil upset the thrust angle and toe if you don't get them back on right.

The brake pipes, you can either unbolt them (7mm spanner), or you can cut a slit throught the metal bracket, bend a 'flap' in it, pop them out, and then put them back in and straighten the brakcet up.

If you're gonna remove the beam, you will need to disconnect the brakes anyway.
 

danny m

Active Member
Apr 16, 2009
321
0
if you remove one tho it should be ok as the other one hasnt moved, but i know what you mean. it just looks like the bolt wont come out as its to long if that makes sense. i dont really want to disconnect the brakes i would rather just drop the beam alittle and drill and chiseal the old one out.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
Having done them very recently, I can confidently say they don't 'slide' in!! However, they are extremely receptive to a big washer and nut on the end of a threaded bar, with something on the other side to pull against. Use plenty of the application grease and they wind in quite easily.

I did find something interesting though, they squash and 'ooze' when they're in the axle, so they're a right pig to push back in place. What I did was push the centre bar as far as possible to the outside of the axle, IE the 'sticky out' bit rather than the flat bit. That then supported the weak part of the bush and the whole thing compressed again as I wound them into the mount.

I was able to unhook the pipes, cut the bracket and do it that way. No messing about with brake pipes. Although I will be checking them for the first few hundred miles, I can't be sure I didn't weaken them.

The bushes I was replacing were the Cupra ones which just had the plastic shell. The first one I removed the centre then cut the outer. The second one I just got a chisel, stuck it so it went between the bush outer and the axle, and just pounded away until the whole thing came out. It was strangely satisfying.

I had to remove the wheel arch trim to remove the bolts, but they came out fine.
 

chrispcupre

Active Member
Jul 27, 2011
767
9
leicestershire
i have only changed swing arm bushes once on my old fiesta when i worked at a garage i removed the swing beam completley and used a hydraulic press and socket to press in so i wouldnt be confident doing roadside on my leon if you got them in i take my hat off to you :funk:
 
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