My LCR jerks when it's cold :(

[Cupra_power]

Mine has the jerks in the morning, only when the temp is below 10 degrees. Just live with it now, asked the dealer to check it out, but no better. Gives the car character (what tells you I use to own an alfa Romeo)

 

[panholio]

112 degrees!!

My old pug used to run at 90 max, got up to about 100-110 after a real good thrash.

Fully synthetic oil as well.

 

[Ruddmeister]

I was always on the motorway in less than ten minutes but sitting in the middle lane at 70mph in 6th gear (which if I remember was just under 3,000rpm) until things were up to temp was always a piece of cake to do.

 

[Mitchy]

112 degrees!!

My old pug used to run at 90 max, got up to about 100-110 after a real good thrash.

Fully synthetic oil as well.

LCR especially when chipped runs extremely high oil temps.

My normal day to day running is 115-120c and as soon as i give it the beans up and down to the limiter a few times especially in say 3rd/4th/5th the needle soon goes round to 150c

Anything sustained at say over 100mph will see my temp needle go towards the 140-150c end of the scale. Sustained i mean 2 mins or so over 100mph, of course only achievable on track and private runways

Hence why i change my oil twice yearly

 

[panholio]

Interesting, I guess this must be a turbo thing?

Just rang SEAT today actually as I wanted to top up my oil a little. I said just wondered what oil you put in my car on it's last service, it's a Cupra R.

Guy says "hang on a minute".... comes back... "is it a petrol or a diesel one?"

I say well it's a Cupra R mate so petrol... oh ok, it's Shell Helix 10w-40...

Interesting as this is exaclty the same rating as my pug, you'd think it'd be different with a much higher oil temp.

 

[virdi]

Interesting, I guess this must be a turbo thing?

Just rang SEAT today actually as I wanted to top up my oil a little. I said just wondered what oil you put in my car on it's last service, it's a Cupra R.

Guy says "hang on a minute".... comes back... "is it a petrol or a diesel one?"

I say well it's a Cupra R mate so petrol... oh ok, it's Shell Helix 10w-40...

Interesting as this is exaclty the same rating as my pug, you'd think it'd be different with a much higher oil temp.

I don't think that's right - I've been told that you should used 0w/40 or 5w/40

 

[warren_cox]

Synta Gold is 5w40 and plenty of dealers seem to use it. The 20VT lump isn't that advanced so I don't think it makes a massive difference between 10w40 and 5w40. I used to run Motul oil from Bill @ Badger 5 and that had a different visocsity again (may have even been 15w50). Didn't notice anything adverse in the way it ran.

 

[panholio]

Well the bit where he said "is it petrol or diesel" kind of set the tone for the answer.

Not sure what to get, it's only for a top up so I'll se what they've got onm hell frauds (god i hate it in there).

 

[Mitchy]

Well the bit where he said "is it petrol or diesel" kind of set the tone for the answer.

Lol mate, some dealers are clueless.

I think as long as you go for 0w/5w/10w and a 30/40 rating fully synthetic you should be okay.

 

[panholio]

Just been in Hell-frauds (why do I do it to myself?) and the geezer started going mental at me about "turbo bushes" and "vanes". He also claimed the oil spec for the 225 (which he had in front of him) is competely different from a 210 (apparently the oil pressure is different and there is something about the size of the oil lines into the turbo).... he also said there "is no way it can be 10w-40 as that would be semi synthetic"


Anyways I left thinking "you're a ****** mate".


Just gonna get a litre of shell helix fully synthetic whatever when I can find some!

EDIT: apologies virdi for this thread going completely off topic.... my fault.

 

[virdi]

Some valid points made here

maybe we're getting this jerkiness because of the grade of oil we're using

 

[Mitchy]

Just been in Hell-frauds (why do I do it to myself?) and the geezer started going mental at me about "turbo bushes" and "vanes". He also claimed the oil spec for the 225 (which he had in front of him) is competely different from a 210 (apparently the oil pressure is different and there is something about the size of the oil lines into the turbo).... he also said there "is no way it can be 10w-40 as that would be semi synthetic"


Anyways I left thinking "you're a ****** mate".


Just gonna get a litre of shell helix fully synthetic whatever when I can find some!

EDIT: apologies virdi for this thread going completely off topic.... my fault.

He's probably confused with 225/210 and normal 180bhp engines. The 210/225 are identical in the respects you have spoken about but are different when compared with the 180bhp engine.

I use 5w/30 mobil 1 and it seems to be spot on

Jerkiness is probably down to engine coolant sensor, the black type sensors are crap and need upgrading to the green type. A symptom of a failing black sensor is rough idle and jerkiness.

 

[panholio]

He's probably confused

I'd say this was a fair assumption for a hell-frauds employee.. he did have a badge that said "manager" on it though

 

[traumapat]

IMO - Cos the car is cold - The ECU is pumping in a bit more juice etc.... and when you hit the throttle there must be too much juice going in.... hence causing a bit of a flooding situation.....

possibly

when starting the car from cold is the engine temp sensor the only reading the ecu uses to decide wether to use the choke? does the external temp sensor play a part?

 

[storeyd]

I don't think its got anything to do with the oil at all. Sounds more like a fuelling issue.

My LCR is smooth as can be, not a jerk in sight (unlike Halfords). A little knowledge is a dangerous thing,- springs to mind!!! What a total TO**A
Why got to Halfords anyway? I get my oil a fiva cheaper from my local motor factors.

 

[matt_s]

My cupra was a bit jerky when cold. Proabably more noticable because it was going slow and not using much power. After seeing the improvements that tdi owners found from putting dielectric grease on the maf connection i tried it and the jerkyness has gone.

 

[virdi]

My cupra was a bit jerky when cold. Proabably more noticable because it was going slow and not using much power. After seeing the improvements that tdi owners found from putting dielectric grease on the maf connection i tried it and the jerkyness has gone.

So... are you saying that damp is getting into the MAF connector etc..?

 

[Cupra_power]

My cupra was a bit jerky when cold. Proabably more noticable because it was going slow and not using much power. After seeing the improvements that tdi owners found from putting dielectric grease on the maf connection i tried it and the jerkyness has gone.

That sounds like a possibility. might give that a go.

 

[matt_s]

It's supposed to be more to do with arcing in the connector giving an uneven reading and the dielectric grease insulates the air gaps to stop it happening. Do a search for it, there's a big thread on it with links to tdi club with even more info.

 

[Chris Sheldon]

Hi,

I have managed to spend the best part of my morning looking into this and not working but am now a little confused... I thought I knew where the MAF sensor was but having read some of the TDi thread given as a link in this thread, I might have been getting the 'MAP' sensor confused with the 'MAF' sensor? Can some one confirm what is the sensor immeadiatly next to the air box, the MAF or MAP? (ie on the left of the Air box as you look in to the engine bay).... thanks.