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It depends on some factors...the fuelling, injection timing, etc...
Anyway 1.6bar should be safe enough for a good remap and stock turbo on a usual moderate and ocasional spirited driving.
 
Standard car, standard turbo. I am running 1.5 bar at moment and might get it turned up a bit
 
stock boost for a pd130 is 1.35 bar, so you don't want to be going too much over that. I would say 1.6 is the "norm" for a remapped pd130. My old hybrid produced good power at 1.8 bar, and my current hybrid produces even more at 2 bar. Once you start getting bigger & stronger turbos, you can push more boost.

I imagine if you were somehow able to retrofit the pd160 turbo, or the pd150 one even - you might be able to push the boost a little bit more - perhaps 1.65 bar to 1.7 bar.

Often though - It's not the high boost pressures which kill turbos - It's being asked to produce full boost when cold, and giving it full boost, then turning the engine off seconds later. Feeding in throttle (and therefore boost) also helps, so the turbo can wind up properly instead of being asked to produce 1.6+ bar in an instance. Having said that even I sometimes just mash the throttle, but still try to mash it in a controlled manner, so to speak.
 
stock boost for a pd130 is 1.35 bar, so you don't want to be going too much over that. I would say 1.6 is the "norm" for a remapped pd130. My old hybrid produced good power at 1.8 bar, and my current hybrid produces even more at 2 bar. Once you start getting bigger & stronger turbos, you can push more boost.

More boost and at the same time more air mass flow, since the turbo wheel is much bigger.

I imagine if you were somehow able to retrofit the pd160 turbo, or the pd150 one even - you might be able to push the boost a little bit more - perhaps 1.65 bar to 1.7 bar.

A "healthy" standard 1749VB (the same as the PD160 turbo) can safely go as far as 1.8bar (up to ~3.500RPM) if aftwerwards it starts steadly decreasing boost level. The reliability issues with 17's usually appear when you're trying to have high boost levels at higher engine rpms, especially past 4.000RPM as the turbo just spins too fast, starts heating up quickly and....... :headhurt:
Having said that on the safe-side ~1.7bar is perfectly safe on a 17 up to near 4.000RPM.


Often though - It's not the high boost pressures which kill turbos - It's being asked to produce full boost when cold, and giving it full boost, then turning the engine off seconds later. Feeding in throttle (and therefore boost) also helps, so the turbo can wind up properly instead of being asked to produce 1.6+ bar in an instance. Having said that even I sometimes just mash the throttle, but still try to mash it in a controlled manner, so to speak.

For sure, one of the major turbo reliability factors is pretty much when, how much and how hard you smash the right pedal... Also one should never discount the luck factor...
 
The car gets driven hard but warmed up before this and i let the car run for at least a minute if i have been pushin it on at all. The car is producing 180bhp at the moment. so 1.6 bar is ok then
 
With stock turbo/IC, 180bhp on a beezer TDI130 is really taking it to the limit...I really have my doubts regarding reliability... I mean my PD TDI150 was at 187bhp with a tuningbox and a decat pipe fitted...

It's very, very unusual to see beezers TDI130 around here running +165bhp with stock turbos and IC's.
So be very careful with it and good luck! :)
 
On ebay here and seen a ko4 turbo. Will this fit or what turbos fitfor more power. Clutch turbo and intercooler on the way i think
 
ko4 is from a petrol car. If you are going to get a bigger turbo you might as well get a hybrid from Allards, Jabba, turbo dynamics etc.

Agree...
If on a budget just get a standard VB from a PD TDI150/160 - should be good enough to get you to circa 200bhp reliably - especially if a large Cupra IC is fitted.
 
Does the torque level go up/down if boost is fiddled with, mine is 165.1 bhp and 296 lb/ft running 1.5 bar iirc
 
My car is running 32psi upto about 4200rpm then it drops to 30psi, on the standard turbo i was running about 25psi, when i had just had the car big turbo'd without the finished re-map my car was overboosting really bad and it used to go off the clock on my boost gauge :S the boost gauge went upto 30psi it used to go way past that and hit the button to change the lights nearly back round to the vacume measure :S
 
The stock KKK KP39 is only good for a max of 1.6 bar, I have seen several re-map'd cars running over 1.95 bar on a stock turbo!!! And I now have a growing pile of knackered ones in the scrap bin!!

They just rip through the thrust bearing, We run 1.45-1.5 bar on a KP39 and have not had any failures.

We run 1.9 bar max on the turbo dynamics units we fit, this seems to give the best power on this unit.
 
The stock KKK KP39 is only good for a max of 1.6 bar, I have seen several re-map'd cars running over 1.95 bar on a stock turbo!!! And I now have a growing pile of knackered ones in the scrap bin!!

They just rip through the thrust bearing, We run 1.45-1.5 bar on a KP39 and have not had any failures.

We run 1.9 bar max on the turbo dynamics units we fit, this seems to give the best power on this unit.

I'm running 1.9bar on my stage 2 turbodynamics, i think making 221bhp.
 
yeah the phase 2 turbo dynamics turbo will run 1.9 bar no problem. The limit on power is about 235-240 bhp on that turbo. We dyno'd one at 235 bhp and 355 ft-lb the other week with this turbo