D.k on the Fr it sounded louder even at idle but the cupra R you only hear it when its at low revs and i got more holes in it this time 50 :D
 
It could be the charge pipe, I'v just fitted a de-baffled one to mine and it has made it sound deeper at low revs.
 
Did mine today, with before and after VAGCOM logs. Difference? Absolutely ZIP! lol. Not driven much to see if response is better or anything, but I'd personally say a lot of effort for next to bog all so think carefully before doing!!
 
Did mine today, with before and after VAGCOM logs. Difference? Absolutely ZIP! lol. Not driven much to see if response is better or anything, but I'd personally say a lot of effort for next to bog all so think carefully before doing!!

bin saying this for a long long time!! :shrug:
 
Drilled Bottom half of the airbox
DSC00173.jpg


i've done this mod now and after fited the car sounds throatier so i am always tempted to floor it just that little bit to hear the sound :D
i didnt bother with the smoothing as i really didnt think it was gonna make any difference.

Used the OEM ducting for now...

thanks for the guide
 
The argument as to downsides is opaque as some would argue that it can allow warm air from the bay into the system however on the other hand there are people saying that it doesnt matter because of the turbo super heating it and the intercoolers cooling it down afterwards anyway.

I always thought this - got a jetex open cone on my LCR, also had one on my NASP rover that I had before the leon - The rover used to loose about half it's power after being sat in traffic, which I'm pretty sure was down to heat soak, whereas my leon barely seems to suffer from this.

I know that obviously the leon has double the power, so a slight loss of grunt would be less noticeable anyway, but I'm inclined to agree with the argument that intake temps have much less effect on a turbo'd motor.
 
surely, if drilling holes in the airbox is goingto allow warm air in then the cone will have this same problem but due to its shape , it will suck in more warm air as there is nothing from preventing it from sucking in the warm engine bay air. the drilled box atleast has some protection as the holes are at the bottom and not a lot of warm air will be sucked in due to the locations of the holes.
 
surely, if drilling holes in the airbox is goingto allow warm air in then the cone will have this same problem but due to its shape , it will suck in more warm air as there is nothing from preventing it from sucking in the warm engine bay air. the drilled box atleast has some protection as the holes are at the bottom and not a lot of warm air will be sucked in due to the locations of the holes.

True, but the box is more constricting, the amount of air will be lower full stop. I have used an open cone and put a cold air feed coming up from the foglamp port. You can also get temperature shields for the cones. I don't see how a drilled box would ever be better than a well thought out cone with good cold air feeds.
 
True, but the box is more constricting, the amount of air will be lower full stop. I have used an open cone and put a cold air feed coming up from the foglamp port. You can also get temperature shields for the cones. I don't see how a drilled box would ever be better than a well thought out cone with good cold air feeds.

what about water getting into your airfilter and causing MAF problems? i am considering putting in a cold air feed but need to play it safe too