fitting a PD150 Turbo - Priming Oil into The Turbo ?

[anni25pd]

Should add Having injector harness disconnected does thro a fault code which will require clearing with vcds or similar fault tool! Good luck with it's not overly difficult just take your time & work methodically & happy in the knowledge you've saved a load on labour charges

 

[BoostHard]

Would like to apologise for handing out info that is incorrect...............

It was the injector wiring I meant, not the ECU.
I got the info from from an advice notice in my car history folder which was supplied with the replacement turbo that was fitted by the previous owner.


I will stay quiet from now on........

 

[joshy514]

might be late, but the way i did it was to remove cam position sensor, the one with red clip you have to pull and then twist the sensor off, then leave the oil return off and turn her over until you get oil pouring out, obviously on new oil, then do it up and make sure you're ready to start it, double check everything. Ooh, turn her over for stints of 10 seconds with minute intervals, mine took about 2 ten second cranks

 

[anni25pd]

might be late, but the way i did it was to remove cam position sensor, the one with red clip you have to pull and then twist the sensor off, then leave the oil return off and turn her over until you get oil pouring out, obviously on new oil, then do it up and make sure you're ready to start it, double check everything. Ooh, turn her over for stints of 10 seconds with minute intervals, mine took about 2 ten second cranks

That's the control circuit for the pd injectors bud! Throws 18072 fault code

 

[joshy514]

Oh right, I rang darkside and they think its the position sensor lol. I don't disbelieve just going on what they said

 

[M20FES]

Right mate get ur turbo/manifold mounted back on car, prime from top (feed location) I use 5ml syringe as not much required just fill till almost overflowing. Attach ur new braided flexi (I hope) line at turbo end & bolt down not forgetting small o-ring gasket & route downside of the head, round coolant pipes etc down towards base of oil filter housing. This is where your oil supply from engine (you'll know this if already removed orig fixed metal line). It's very, very fiddly bolt with washers each side new feed (this is very important to prevent leaks!!!) Does take a bit of time as said & awkward with various pipes in your way but persevere & you'll get there! This is lifeline of your turbo so ensure it's right.

Once happy start reconnect all other pipe work, downpipe etc basically everything you've removed to do removal. Couple of connectors are fiddly with limited access.. Leave oil return from turbo to sump disconnected at this point.

I'd love to know how your going to crank engine with ecu (or cam
Position sensor) disconnected as suggested above in previous post  don't do this!!!
Standing in front of engine look at right hand side of cylinder head near top above coolant pipes etc locate the electrical connection for the control circuit for the p'd injectors. It's a funny twist type connector with a small locating tab that u remove then twist/unscrew to disconnect.

Re double check everything else is reconnected, buttoned back up correctly !! And double check again!! Hopefully you dropped oil after knackered turbo was out, replace paper element oil filter & refilled with correct grade pd oil.

Remember your new oil feed line is empty at this point ( you can back fill it if u wish if u install in reverse of above) Once happy crank engine over on key, if u can get someone else to do it for you, leaves u free to watch oil return pipe from turbo for oil flow.

Don't worry it does take alot of cranking before u will see oil from it. Obv engine won't fire due to injectors disconnected so it won't flow heavily as pump isnt fully engaging. I've seen it take a min or two of cranking before u see a flow, once u do reconnect return at sump ( with gasket again) then reconnect injector wiring harness in reverse of above detailed procedure.

Again once happy fire engine properly & just let it idle whilst you re-check all connections for leaks , a torch is handy here! I tend to let it idle for as long as possible without revving at all. Finish refitting all other parts removed driveshaft , engine covers etc etc by the time ur done engine should at temp & ready for test drive

might be late, but the way i did it was to remove cam position sensor, the one with red clip you have to pull and then twist the sensor off, then leave the oil return off and turn her over until you get oil pouring out, obviously on new oil, then do it up and make sure you're ready to start it, double check everything. Ooh, turn her over for stints of 10 seconds with minute intervals, mine took about 2 ten second cranks

thanks guys, youve been a great help.

gonna pop back out there in a min and finished off, just got to connect the intercooler pipes and disconected the injectors and start cranking and watch the oil return line

 

[M20FES]

right intercooler pipes on, and ive found the twisty injectors connection.

going to undo the oil return pipe and start cranking

 

[joshy514]

have you cleaned the intercooled for good measure?

 

[M20FES]

have you cleaned the intercooled for good measure?

not the intercooler itself, clean all the pipe work though.

Everything all back together, left it running at idle for about 20 mins, checked the feed and return lines....no leaks, took it round the block a few times very slowly until i was up to 90 degrees, then gave it some to test the turbo, boosting to about 21psi so ive got rid of my overboost, no police siren and turbo kicks in quick, liquid gauge peaked at 170BHP at just over 4k. overall very happy

inspection of my old turbo showed, a damaged fin on the downpipe side, actuator was stiff to the point i could barley move it (seized vanes), not much play in it though tbh. id say it lasted well for 172k

getting up bright and early in the morning, fitting my new LCR splitter, quick wash...then down to UD2013, which is 2.5 miles away for me

 

[joshy514]

Well done!! Wish I was going, should be there but my rubbish diff all of you will be having fun but I'll be in the garage stripping her again. My turbo was in the same state yours was, but no damage. How much nicer are they to drive, boosting normally again?! I love mine now lol. After the box should see some more love towards her, as she hasn't had much lately. Glad you're all done mate, good job.

 

[M20FES]

Well done!! Wish I was going, should be there but my rubbish diff all of you will be having fun but I'll be in the garage stripping her again. My turbo was in the same state yours was, but no damage. How much nicer are they to drive, boosting normally again?! I love mine now lol. After the box should see some more love towards her, as she hasn't had much lately. Glad you're all done mate, good job.

many many thanks for your help mate, failing to do this today meant i couldn't go to UD tomorrow.

took me best part of 12 hours to do though , with lots of coffee brakes inbetween. was trial and error really though, just figuring out how to get to those hard to reach bolts, etc, then loosing my tools and looking for them in the mess id made. i reckon if i had to do it again, maybe 4 hours now.....

I'am off for a bath cause i have literally changed my ethnic race.

 

[cocadave]

many many thanks for your help mate, failing to do this today meant i couldn't go to UD tomorrow.

took me best part of 12 hours to do though , with lots of coffee brakes inbetween. was trial and error really though, just figuring out how to get to those hard to reach bolts, etc, then loosing my tools and looking for them in the mess id made. i reckon if i had to do it again, maybe 4 hours now.....

I'am off for a bath cause i have literally changed my ethnic race.

Great stuff, glad it turned out well, I'm going to have to remove mine again as i have got a right nasty high pitched squeel coming on as soon as you touch the gas... Not happy