Aftermarket DSP amp with MIB2STD

[mathyou78]

Hello,

I'm trying to add an aftermarket amp and i don't have my own VCDS or OBD11 unit. I’m just after some clarification before I ask someone to do this coding for me.

I've been reading this:

Mk3 2014 Head Unit change.

Ok no problem when ever you have time to have a look. I've realised that it's not same as my current wiring so not sure why I asked about 10,14 pins. Do you think I can get my mib2 std nav unit speaker configuration changed to match my current cars wiring so that othe unit will put bass and...

www.seatcupra.net

Does changing Byte 4-7 to FF000000 change an 8RM set up from splitting the front signal between bass/ treble (separate front door woofer and tweeters), ie. output on pins 1 to 8, 9,10,13 and 14 to just pins 1 - 8 in the quadlock (brown block)? I.e. gets rid of the split front/ bass treble signal.

In combination with that, does amending Byte 11 to 00 nullify the internal MIB unit crossover so that full-range signal then goes to each of the 4 signals now routed to pins 1 - 8?

Car is 2018 Leon FR Technology with MIB 2.5 and 8RM speaker set up with no factory amp.

Cheers

 

[mathyou78]

Hello,

I'm trying to add an aftermarket amp and i don't have my own VCDS or OBD11 unit. I’m just after some clarification before I ask someone to do this coding for me.

I've been reading this:

Mk3 2014 Head Unit change.

Ok no problem when ever you have time to have a look. I've realised that it's not same as my current wiring so not sure why I asked about 10,14 pins. Do you think I can get my mib2 std nav unit speaker configuration changed to match my current cars wiring so that othe unit will put bass and...

www.seatcupra.net

Does changing Byte 4-7 to FF000000 change an 8RM set up from splitting the front signal between bass/ treble (separate front door woofer and tweeters), ie. output on pins 1 to 8, 9,10,13 and 14 to just pins 1 - 8 in the quadlock (brown block)? I.e. gets rid of the split front/ bass treble signal.

In combination with that, does amending Byte 11 to 00 nullify the internal MIB unit crossover so that full-range signal then goes to each of the 4 signals now routed to pins 1 - 8?

Car is 2018 Leon FR Technology with MIB 2.5 and 8RM speaker set up with no factory amp.

Cheers

For reference, as a follow up to this:

My car was coded at Byte 4-7 as: D70A0000. Changing this to FF000000 sent the outputs as full range to pins 1-8 like I wanted. Very useful info if you’re adding an aftermarket amp. For ref, changing byte 11 from 01 to 00 made matters worse, that was eventually put back to 01.

Essentially the car is now coded as a ‘full range, 4 channel 8RM’ as opposed to the original ‘split front and full range rear, 6 channel 8RM’.

All coding done with OBDeleven.

No need for VCP coding here as I wasn’t changing between Seat Sound/ Beats Audio and standard (or vice Versa).

By the way, some SEAT speaker wire colours and connections differed from their own wiring diagrams even though the model year and 8RM configuration matched, confusingly this didn’t apply to all wires and pin outs.

I made my own T-cable as I hate cutting factory wires. This ensures that when the time comes to sell-on the car I can put everything back as it was by just recoding back to D70A0000 and removing my amp and its cabling.

I recommend taking before and after photos of every connection. That’s a good tip.

I hope all this is helpful to someone trying to do something similar.

 

[Chillout]

Car is 2018 Leon FR Technology with MIB 2.5 and 8RM speaker set up with no factory amp.

MIB2.5 on a Leon? How did you fit the 9.2" screen in the dash?

 

[mathyou78]

MIB2.5 on a Leon? How did you fit the 9.2" screen in the dash?

Apologies, my bad. I think It’s actually MIB 2STD. It’s the one with two buttons on the left.

 

[Andre_rrr]

For reference, as a follow up to this:

My car was coded at Byte 4-7 as: D70A0000. Changing this to FF000000 sent the outputs as full range to pins 1-8 like I wanted. Very useful info if you’re adding an aftermarket amp. For ref, changing byte 11 from 01 to 00 made matters worse, that was eventually put back to 01.

Essentially the car is now coded as a ‘full range, 4 channel 8RM’ as opposed to the original ‘split front and full range rear, 6 channel 8RM’.

All coding done with OBDeleven.

No need for VCP coding here as I wasn’t changing between Seat Sound/ Beats Audio and standard (or vice Versa).

By the way, some SEAT speaker wire colours and connections differed from their own wiring diagrams even though the model year and 8RM configuration matched, confusingly this didn’t apply to all wires and pin outs.

I made my own T-cable as I hate cutting factory wires. This ensures that when the time comes to sell-on the car I can put everything back as it was by just recoding back to D70A0000 and removing my amp and its cabling.

I recommend taking before and after photos of every connection. That’s a good tip.

I hope all this is helpful to someone trying to do something similar.

Can you show me a photo how to change bytes 4-7 to FF through obdeleven? Thanks.

 

[mathyou78]

Can you show me a photo how to change bytes 4-7 to FF through obdeleven? Thanks.

Let me have a look and I’ll come back to you. It’s not tricky. What amp etc are you trying to connect to?

 

[mathyou78]

Can you show me a photo how to change bytes 4-7 to FF through obdeleven? Thanks.

Go into “5F” module. Click “long coding”. Change the highlighted byte (5th one along, as in 0, 1, 2, 3, 4). It should show as “Byte 04” change the hex value to “FF”. Also change “byte 11” hex value to “05” to get a full range signal front and rear. Then either “hard reset” via OB11 or disconnect and hold down the radio power button for 10 sec. Then turn it back on. The last steps are to reboot the system and capture the changes.

 

[East Yorkshire Retrofits]

Apologies, my bad. I think It’s actually MIB 2STD. It’s the one with two buttons on the left.

That's just MIB2 with a facelift display. It could be MIB2std or Mib2high, the display would be the same

 

[Pipzap]

Hello, I have the same issue at OP. Meaning I have the 8RM non seat sound/beats setup with split front signals to tweeter/mids.

would making the change to full signal front and rear allow me to install a 4 channel plug and play DSP (like the Match pp62DSP or Audison ap5.9bit)?

And also: does the oem wiring to the tweeter have a capacitor protecting the tweeter from the low frequencies when it starts receiving full signal?

 

[East Yorkshire Retrofits]

The capacitor is on the back of the tweeter

If you altered the wiring to the seat sound configuration, you'd be left with 6 channels

Front left high low
Front right high low
Rear left high low
Rear right high low
Subwoofer
Dash speaker

So you may aswell install a 6 channel amp and add an aftermarket subwoofer and a dashboard speaker at the same time. Or just go with Seat Sound

 

[Pipzap]

Thank you for that.
What I really want is a plug and play option With dsp and a real subwoofer. The audison I mentioned comes with a t-cable and adaptor to connect the 8-pin full signal front and rear. But I then still have to Connect the wires going from the radio to tweeters and mids, since they split i suppose?

The Audison ap5.9bit I have found at a great price - with all wiring and a powerfull sub.

all the plug and play options are made for 4 channels + sub.

have any experience with this?

 

[mathyou78]

Thank you for that.
What I really want is a plug and play option With dsp and a real subwoofer. The audison I mentioned comes with a t-cable and adaptor to connect the 8-pin full signal front and rear. But I then still have to Connect the wires going from the radio to tweeters and mids, since they split i suppose?

The Audison ap5.9bit I have found at a great price - with all wiring and a powerfull sub.

all the plug and play options are made for 4 channels + sub.

have any experience with this?

I eventually sold my ap4.9 and then upgraded to the forza c8.14. I have a 10inch APBX powered sub too. It’s awesome now.

In the end I coded the car back to the original 6 channels and fed all these into the c8.14. I then applied high and low shelf filters on the 4 front dsp inputs at a common frequency point. Together with the Audison input levelling, this gives a flat input signal - which is just what you need. Don’t bother with the ap5.9, the dsp is inadequate.

 

[mathyou78]

Thank you for that.
What I really want is a plug and play option With dsp and a real subwoofer. The audison I mentioned comes with a t-cable and adaptor to connect the 8-pin full signal front and rear. But I then still have to Connect the wires going from the radio to tweeters and mids, since they split i suppose?

The Audison ap5.9bit I have found at a great price - with all wiring and a powerfull sub.

all the plug and play options are made for 4 channels + sub.

have any experience with this?

I made my own T cable from a 52 pin quad lock extension harness. About 30 cm long from memory. Highly recommended.

You just snip your T cable’s speaker wires (12 wires in total/ 6 signal pairs). This effectively gives 6 signal pairs to the amp and 6 signal pairs (from the amp) to the speakers. This also makes it dead easy to reverse if you decide to remove the amp later too.

 

[Pipzap]

I eventually sold my ap4.9 and then upgraded to the forza c8.14. I have a 10inch APBX powered sub too. It’s awesome now.

In the end I coded the car back to the original 6 channels and fed all these into the c8.14. I then applied high and low shelf filters on the 4 front dsp inputs at a common frequency point. Together with the Audison input levelling, this gives a flat input signal - which is just what you need. Don’t bother with the ap5.9, the dsp is inadequate.

Thank you so much for sharing the experience!
A shame the 5.9 is a bust, i liked the price of it (600 pounds including all wiring for the car and the Audison 8” sub). And also liked how easy it seemed to setup for a total dsp rookie

 

[Pipzap]

I eventually sold my ap4.9 and then upgraded to the forza c8.14. I have a 10inch APBX powered sub too. It’s awesome now.

In the end I coded the car back to the original 6 channels and fed all these into the c8.14. I then applied high and low shelf filters on the 4 front dsp inputs at a common frequency point. Together with the Audison input levelling, this gives a flat input signal - which is just what you need. Don’t bother with the ap5.9, the dsp is inadequate.

Could you possibly put a few more words on why the ap5.9 dsp is inadequate?

 

[Jokke]

Why not get a Match dsp plug and play from https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/

 

[Pipzap]

Why not get a Match dsp plug and play from https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/

they dont have a plug and play solution for my configuration unfortunately

 

[mathyou78]

Could you possibly put a few more words on why the ap5.9 dsp is inadequate?

Yeah, the electrical input levelling is inadequate on the ap series. In your case the tweeters and mid woofers signal overlap and this is not something you can measure or correct with the ap series. Also, the ap has no built in RTA and that makes tuning a real bind. There are other limitations too but I can’t recall them all. The forza dsp series is excellent though. Save up and you won’t be disappointed.

 

[mathyou78]

they dont have a plug and play solution for my configuration unfortunately

The hardest part is running the power cable from the battery to the cabin. If you can do that then you’re capable enough to make your own T cable.

I have my dsp under the front seat. I screwed it to a plastic sheet and adapted the factory amp securing points to attach it to the chassis.

 

[Pipzap]

The hardest part is running the power cable from the battery to the cabin. If you can do that then you’re capable enough to make your own T cable.

I have my dsp under the front seat. I screwed it to a plastic sheet and adapted the factory amp securing points to attach it to the chassis.

That I have already done. I initially installed just a regular sub and amp from previous cars, but the analog amp does not handle the highlevel digital signal from the Leon radio Well. Therefore I want to add a DSP amp and get the cars OEM speakers hooked up, and add a new sub.

pretty sure I can do the Wiring, more concerned about adjusting the DSP.