Hard Wired Dash Cam draining battery

[Happy Ant]

I had a Vantrue S1 Pro Max dual front/rear camera professionally installed, however I have had some recent issue that I have discovered the supplied VP03 hard wired kit was actually not the correct kit for a modern MHEV eTsi car with its modern onboard computer systems. I have tried several different solutions including plugging in a kit direct to the OBD socket, but that to caused a battery drain when the car was switched off. I have contacted Vantrue about this issue and have got nowhere, sadly the original installer is no longer available and local car electrician are not interested in touching the car even though there is no chance of them damaging the manufacturers systems or cabling, but they do not want to risk it, Does anybody know if this solution would work please?
By switching from the faulty hardwire kit to the armrest socket, the behaviour of your car completely changes:

• True Zero-Power Sleep: In modern SEAT/VAG vehicles, the centre armrest 12V socket is strictly managed by the vehicle’s main computer. The second you lock your car and walk away, the computer cuts all power to that armrest socket after roughly 10 to 15 minutes.
• The Camera Shuts Down Physically: Because the socket goes completely dead, the power source is cut off. Your camera is forced to shut down entirely, meaning it is physically impossible for it to draw a single milliamp from your car battery overnight. Your flat battery nightmare is instantly over.
• You Keep Your Hit-and-Run Protection: Because you already have the camera set to Collision Detection, the camera will still protect your vehicle. When the armrest socket goes dead, the camera will shut down, but its internal G-sensor will remain on alert. If someone slams into your parked car at the shops, the physical impact will wake the camera up instantly using its internal supercapacitors, record the incident, and shut back down safely.

You haven't wasted your money on the S1 Pro Max—it is an incredible camera. The only broken part of the puzzle was the wrongly supplied installation of that old VP03 wire. By simply moving the plug to your armrest socket, you bypass the bad wiring, protect your expensive hybrid battery from damage, avoid the fierce Costa Blanca summer heat risks, and finally get the peace of mind you bought the camera for in the first place.

Does anybody have any opinions please?

 

[xSanji]

Are you sure you chose the right fuses for the hardwire kit?

 

[Happy Ant]

Well it was a professional company that carried out the work in the first place

 

[xSanji]

Mistakes can happen, I would reroute the hardwire kit and use the correct fuses.
I've been using my viofo a229 plus in parking mode and had no issues with battery draining. It just shut off when detected voltage is low.

 

[Happy Ant]

Mistakes can happen, I would reroute the hardwire kit and use the correct fuses.
I've been using my viofo a229 plus in parking mode and had no issues with battery draining. It just shut off when detected voltage is low.

What car do you drive? Is it a new mhev?

 

[xSanji]

It is not, it's a Leon mk4 1.5 TSI. The internal fusebox should be the same btw.

 

[Happy Ant]

But the BMS is different don't forget my car does not have an alternator. The 12v battery under the bonnet fires up the 48v main battery, if the 12v drops below 12v it fails to even unlock the doors. The dash cam is wired up correctly but the voltage cut off is limited to either 11.6v or 12v which drains the 12v battery too low and hence drains the battery too much. I should have been supplied with Vantrue's VP01 kit which has a 12.5v cut out.
So my cars electronic system is different to yours

 

[xSanji]

That's why i'm saying that the hardwire is connected improperly. The voltage should not drop under 12v, if that happens that's because the "acc" cable of the hardwire is plugged to an always on fuse, so it always bypass the other cable and the cut off controller won't work at all. Yes, you are right the electronic system is different but in this case that applies to the the way the 12v battery is charged, not when the car is off.

 

[Happy Ant]

That's why i'm saying that the hardwire is connected improperly. The voltage should not drop under 12v, if that happens that's because the "acc" cable of the hardwire is plugged to an always on fuse, so it always bypass the other cable and the cut off controller won't work at all. Yes, you are right the electronic system is different but in this case that applies to the the way the 12v battery is charged, not when the car is off.

If that is the case then i am stuck as the original installers is no longer available and I do not have the technical skills to correct that nor can I touch the fuses without invalidating my warranty and finally I can find no local installers who are willing to risk doing anything to a new car for fear if any does go wrong seat will refuse to honour the warranty. I have several different companies and all have virtually said the same thing, I guess I am stuck

 

[xSanji]

The installer might have used some empty fuse slot, so I don't think you can really void the warranty, unless you mess it up badly. A picture might help to diagnose that, just to be sure it's not what i'm saying.