I have a question:
The S3 had a single mass flywheel or the standard dual-mass flywheel?
(It has to be known, for with no dual-mass to dampen the internal shocks in the engine, the risk is much higher.)
~Nautilus
300lb-ft on standard rods is the 'limit'? think again.
- Thread starter Dan1720v
- Start date
I have a question:
The S3 had a single mass flywheel or the standard dual-mass flywheel?
(It has to be known, for with no dual-mass to dampen the internal shocks in the engine, the risk is much higher.)
~Nautilus
I was always under the impression that a DMF was purely to dampen the engine pulses heading into the gearbox, making it quieter and smoother for the driver/passengers?
And that the harmonic damper pulley on the other end of the crank was to keep the engine smooth?
And that the harmonic damper pulley on the other end of the crank was to keep the engine smooth?
If the pulses are dampened at the crank end, they are dampened throughout the engine.
I have a very aggressive mapping, which is rated for Stage 0 and 232 lb-ft, but took great advantage of intake, IC and exhaust mods to run 264-265 lb-ft slightly above 3500 rpm. AUQ engine (different rods compared to an AMK or BAM). Map installed at 30k kms, now 86k kms and still runs strong. Engine had been opened at 70k for repairs due to a sheared cam belt and also changed the piston rings - all 4 rods were in good shape and straight. Car had been driven hard, plenty of full throttle from 2000 to 5000 rpms and 1.5 bar of boost. Still on stock DMF.
After some horror stories which reared their head in 2010 and 2011 here and on Audi TT forums, I've bitten the bullet and invested in a Fluidampr to give more dampening of internal shocks and protect 2 things I'm scared for: the rods and the timing gear. The way Fluidampr runs (counterweight oscillating in a fluid filled space) is very similar to a second DMF at the opposite end of the engine.
I also avoid like plague any form of thrashing the engine before it had hit full operating temperature, leave it running a bit at idle before shutting down, change the oil at precisely 10k kms, only with the best juice on the market, and avoid detonation like plague and AIDS together. Detonation kills. Use only the best fuels and do all mods to get cooler running cylinder heads. There were some hapless guys with AUQs and AGUs in MK4 Golfs who got melted holes in the pistons due to detonation, and what is worse, the engine is so balanced that unless you follow the slightest change in running, the destruction of the rod or piston can go unnoticed for a long time. Truly nightmare fuel.
Maybe I was lucky. Only God knows what may happen in the future.
~Nautilus
I have a very aggressive mapping, which is rated for Stage 0 and 232 lb-ft, but took great advantage of intake, IC and exhaust mods to run 264-265 lb-ft slightly above 3500 rpm. AUQ engine (different rods compared to an AMK or BAM). Map installed at 30k kms, now 86k kms and still runs strong. Engine had been opened at 70k for repairs due to a sheared cam belt and also changed the piston rings - all 4 rods were in good shape and straight. Car had been driven hard, plenty of full throttle from 2000 to 5000 rpms and 1.5 bar of boost. Still on stock DMF.
After some horror stories which reared their head in 2010 and 2011 here and on Audi TT forums, I've bitten the bullet and invested in a Fluidampr to give more dampening of internal shocks and protect 2 things I'm scared for: the rods and the timing gear. The way Fluidampr runs (counterweight oscillating in a fluid filled space) is very similar to a second DMF at the opposite end of the engine.
I also avoid like plague any form of thrashing the engine before it had hit full operating temperature, leave it running a bit at idle before shutting down, change the oil at precisely 10k kms, only with the best juice on the market, and avoid detonation like plague and AIDS together. Detonation kills. Use only the best fuels and do all mods to get cooler running cylinder heads. There were some hapless guys with AUQs and AGUs in MK4 Golfs who got melted holes in the pistons due to detonation, and what is worse, the engine is so balanced that unless you follow the slightest change in running, the destruction of the rod or piston can go unnoticed for a long time. Truly nightmare fuel.
Maybe I was lucky. Only God knows what may happen in the future.
~Nautilus
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Yep I know what you're saying, it was the lightweight aftermarket crank pulleys that destroyed a couple of engines 
I couldn't see how a DMF flywheel setup could help with avoiding losing a rod - The DMF is only there to smooth gearchanges. You could get an SMF with the same weight as the stock flywheel if you wanted to keep the same pulse damping as the stock DMF.
You're certainly doing the right things with letting it heat up and cool down correctly, that and the regular oil changes with decent oil is what the 1.8T loves best.
I couldn't see how a DMF flywheel setup could help with avoiding losing a rod - The DMF is only there to smooth gearchanges. You could get an SMF with the same weight as the stock flywheel if you wanted to keep the same pulse damping as the stock DMF.
You're certainly doing the right things with letting it heat up and cool down correctly, that and the regular oil changes with decent oil is what the 1.8T loves best.
Corky Bell explained the issue of breaking pistons and rods in both Maximum Boost, 1st and 2nd chapter, and Supercharged!: The Design, Testing, and Installation of Supercharger Systems, 1st chapter:
"Knock is virtually always the cause of failure in a supercharged engine. The pressure spike caused by the detonation explosion can reach several thousand PSI, and pressure rise is rapid enough to be considered an impact load. These temperatures and pressures are almost ten times higher than those accompanying controlled combustion. . . No metals in existence today, no forged pistons, no special head gaskets can withstand sustained detonation."
Furthermore, in Maximum Boost, 2nd chapter, the load on a piston engine is discussed in all components, starting with tensile loads at the top of the compression and exhaust strokes and compressive loads during the power stroke.
He assessed the risk for the internal engine parts out of which the rod takes the greatest stress and the came to the conclusion that supercharging or turbocharging an engine which has been designed to be aspirated (no forged pistons or cranks, no fancy alloy rods) carries very low risk as long as no detonations are involved. And detonations can run for many miles and still be inaudible even for a trained mechanic. Until the piston breaks at the wrist pin. Or the rod snaps.
~Nautilus
"Knock is virtually always the cause of failure in a supercharged engine. The pressure spike caused by the detonation explosion can reach several thousand PSI, and pressure rise is rapid enough to be considered an impact load. These temperatures and pressures are almost ten times higher than those accompanying controlled combustion. . . No metals in existence today, no forged pistons, no special head gaskets can withstand sustained detonation."
Furthermore, in Maximum Boost, 2nd chapter, the load on a piston engine is discussed in all components, starting with tensile loads at the top of the compression and exhaust strokes and compressive loads during the power stroke.
He assessed the risk for the internal engine parts out of which the rod takes the greatest stress and the came to the conclusion that supercharging or turbocharging an engine which has been designed to be aspirated (no forged pistons or cranks, no fancy alloy rods) carries very low risk as long as no detonations are involved. And detonations can run for many miles and still be inaudible even for a trained mechanic. Until the piston breaks at the wrist pin. Or the rod snaps.
~Nautilus
Not without removing the crank = a lot more work. Head needs to come off = easier work
Thats that idea out the window
Not that difficult to do if you have got some technical knowledge, just make sure that everything is torqued correctly and that the spec of the bearings is correct. There is a full video tutorial on YouTube on how to do it.
They are actually a pretty fast car, they just dont pull well in the high gears low rpm.
Yes poor torque figure lol
In my type r I had beaten loads of cupra r. They were from 1st gear onwards.
I wouldn't say they are gutless cars, like someone said high gear low revs they don't pull well.
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