Make sure you have the bit of plastic between the bumper & the rad at the bottom - this alone caused a few of my mk2's to overheat when I lost that.
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ABF Thermostat
- Thread starter Dave_R
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email sent to AH Fabrications..... I need it so might as well sort it now because I know full well what I'm like in the next few months I will want it lol
i have to say M0rk is once again talking complete sense.
A cooler thermostat wont increase or improve cooling capacity, it will just simply initiate cooling early during warm up. So it will extend cold start up temps (increasing fuel consumption as a result).
Im not aware that a cooler running thermostate increases cooling capacity once up to temp, so running a normal thermostat or cooler thermostat on the track will result in the same issue as they will both be fully open when running the car hard.
In fact, from what you have described, you may have a thermostat thats stuck slightly open as from what you have described you too have too much cooling when the car is driven gently.
Now this does raise the possibility that the thermostat is stuck in that one position of partially open, thus resulting in too much cooling when taking it easy and not enough cooling when running hard although i suspect it opens ok but possibly doesnt close fully.
I would stick with a standard thermostat although possibly replace the current unit as it could be faulty. - When fully open this should perform just the same as a cool running unit.
If you still suffer from high temps when running hard then this indicates a cooling capacity issue.
A cooler thermostat wont increase or improve cooling capacity, it will just simply initiate cooling early during warm up. So it will extend cold start up temps (increasing fuel consumption as a result).
Im not aware that a cooler running thermostate increases cooling capacity once up to temp, so running a normal thermostat or cooler thermostat on the track will result in the same issue as they will both be fully open when running the car hard.
In fact, from what you have described, you may have a thermostat thats stuck slightly open as from what you have described you too have too much cooling when the car is driven gently.
Now this does raise the possibility that the thermostat is stuck in that one position of partially open, thus resulting in too much cooling when taking it easy and not enough cooling when running hard although i suspect it opens ok but possibly doesnt close fully.
I would stick with a standard thermostat although possibly replace the current unit as it could be faulty. - When fully open this should perform just the same as a cool running unit.
If you still suffer from high temps when running hard then this indicates a cooling capacity issue.
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Andy it's cooling too much at the moment because there isn't one there lol.
It was getting too warm for my liking last year (when I did have a stat in it) on a few track sessions so might as well sort it now before I have it corner weighted again.
It was getting too warm for my liking last year (when I did have a stat in it) on a few track sessions so might as well sort it now before I have it corner weighted again.
Andy it's cooling too much at the moment because there isn't one there lol./ah i didnt read that bit..
Interesting... is it possible that too much circulation reduces cooling efficiency?
Redline Water wetter. "Cooling system heat transfer agent for use with coolant to "wet" heat transfer surfaces by 50%. This provides significantly better coolant contact in cylinder head and can reduce coolant and head temps by as much as 30degF. does not alter freezing point.
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30°F is like 1°C lol
Mork I know tbh I went faster around the ring with a passenger than a did myself but you can make time up easy at that place lol.
But if I'm gonna spend the money on the set up I want it spot on to be fair
just done a bit more reading, it would appear that the redline stuff is more for older cars, modern coolant has heast transfer agent incorporated...
Good read fella! That is worth knowing actually
Like lil infor like that about stuff
30°F is like 1°C lol
Mork I know tbh I went faster around the ring with a passenger than a did myself but you can make time up easy at that place lol.
But if I'm gonna spend the money on the set up I want it spot on to be fair
yes 30F is near to 0C... however a change by 30f would be about a change of 15C..
but anyway being picky now, it would appear there is little to be gained using this stuff.
dim AC, never had it.
Know of any lower temp fan switches I can go for? See Neuspeed offer one
Also how many pins are on the fan switch 2 or 3 pin?
Know of any lower temp fan switches I can go for? See Neuspeed offer one
Also how many pins are on the fan switch 2 or 3 pin?
just the AC fan switch has dual speed on it - the usual flat out when hot but also had a 1/2 speed that ran when the ac was on
i can flip open the back of the parts catalogue and match up the thread size (usually 3 to choose) and give ya a list of wiring/temp types to choose from
first plan ideally would be to check what's fitted (usually marked with number if genuine and stamped with temp rating) the you know what the baseline is and then look for alternative options from there
as m0rk mentioned the cooling guide's for the rad is worthwhile checking mind, wasted airflow is wasted cooling efficency, when i fitted the f2 bumper the gap under the rad meant air just rushed past it and did nothing and the temps went up crazy. Had all sorts of cardboard and gaffer tape testing to get them down before i made some ali ones, will probably have to do it all over again in summer
i can flip open the back of the parts catalogue and match up the thread size (usually 3 to choose) and give ya a list of wiring/temp types to choose from
first plan ideally would be to check what's fitted (usually marked with number if genuine and stamped with temp rating) the you know what the baseline is and then look for alternative options from there
as m0rk mentioned the cooling guide's for the rad is worthwhile checking mind, wasted airflow is wasted cooling efficency, when i fitted the f2 bumper the gap under the rad meant air just rushed past it and did nothing and the temps went up crazy. Had all sorts of cardboard and gaffer tape testing to get them down before i made some ali ones, will probably have to do it all over again in summer
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Crap pic, but you can see the feed I had to make
Luckily that was running a narrow rad, but check you have something that goes from that inlet right to the rad
Luckily that was running a narrow rad, but check you have something that goes from that inlet right to the rad
If you could give me a list of wiring/temp types to choose from that would be great!
Not sure what I have on it at the moment because the car's in the bodyshop. What rating could I choose from? Might just get a lower rated fan switch or get an alloy one made up now for future mods with an airbox lol.
All the ducts are in place for the rad, I've fitted a "Nissen" aluiminum rad which is better for cooling and my 106/saxo/rallye mates rave about and placed them all back onto the alui rad.
Not sure what I have on it at the moment because the car's in the bodyshop. What rating could I choose from? Might just get a lower rated fan switch or get an alloy one made up now for future mods with an airbox lol.
All the ducts are in place for the rad, I've fitted a "Nissen" aluiminum rad which is better for cooling and my 106/saxo/rallye mates rave about and placed them all back onto the alui rad.
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people fit 1.3 (mk2 golf stats) onto track golfs think the are around 78 degrees, then youve already mentioned the neuspeed ones.
if you go onto awesome gti i think they have the stats and neuspeed fan switches advertised on the same page.
i think it is a good idea if your always giving it hell, of course the fan will still cut in and do its job when the temps get too hot. when your driving round the airflow is more than enough to cool the coolant going back into the engine.
just sitting idling is when you need the fan.
if you go onto awesome gti i think they have the stats and neuspeed fan switches advertised on the same page.
i think it is a good idea if your always giving it hell, of course the fan will still cut in and do its job when the temps get too hot. when your driving round the airflow is more than enough to cool the coolant going back into the engine.
just sitting idling is when you need the fan.
been lookin on clubgti and a few people have used lower temp thermostats and fan switches on their track cars but don't know any part numbers lol.
standard appears to be 3 pin anyway for all ?
original : 1H0 959 481B (95-84 / 102-91)
Commercial Ignition : XEFS295 (no spec)
Intermotor : 50026 (3 Terminals M22 x 1.5 (95-90/102-97deg C) circuit N.O/N.O. Black top
M22 x 1.5 fitting opens up an endless array of fittings if you can chop the wires but if you want an exact swap for the original 3 wire that will narrow it down a tad to be honest but gimme 5 mins while i check some specs
original : 1H0 959 481B (95-84 / 102-91)
Commercial Ignition : XEFS295 (no spec)
Intermotor : 50026 (3 Terminals M22 x 1.5 (95-90/102-97deg C) circuit N.O/N.O. Black top
M22 x 1.5 fitting opens up an endless array of fittings if you can chop the wires but if you want an exact swap for the original 3 wire that will narrow it down a tad to be honest but gimme 5 mins while i check some specs
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