• Hey Guest💡👉 We have just launched our new Dealer Directory and review service Find out more now
Its also worth checking the multiway connector which goes into the back of the dash panel. The top row of pins can "pull" out slightly even with the latching connector firmly in place.

Either take off the fuse box cover (the one on the end of the dashboard which you can only get at with the drivers door open) then look at the back of the cluster, unclip the connector (there's a small hidden latch half way up which you need to press in the let the locking lever go upwards to release the connector) and then reseat it.

Or, once you've been here and know where you're looking/feeling, then you can do the same through the small coin cubby (where the ODB socket is) if you remove the cubby door (which just slides out).

After having my dash out to look at the temp sender/fuel sender issue, I managed to create the immobiliser issue but it was easily fixed by seating properly.

Thanks, i would have never been able to figure out how to remove the green multi connector without your help.

However, it is still playing up, wiggling the wire that geos to the reader coil does not work either, i think i am going to have to get a new set of dials from SEAT.

Thanks for your help. :)
 
STOP EVERYTHING

mine started do this a year ago, ocassionally it would start and turn off instantly, but unlocking the steering column and pushing it in fast and back out would sort it! i checked the wiring loom going into the barrel and found the contact that goes into the reader coil which picks up the magnet field that the key makes was half way out! i cable tired the barrel tight to the frame so no movement was possible, as instrusted by my fello colleges in my work place( audi dealership) which cured it instantly for a month! then it started doing it again! check the wiring again and found when i shaked the wiring going to the barrel it would fix it! so i cut the section of wiring out and rewired it using crimps and heat shrinks! then the car started straight away! 2 months on and its not done it again!


try this out first and relay it back before forking out vast somes of money ;)

is your fix still working?:shrug:

i have started to experience this recently, usually when i just nip out at lunch:rolleyes: and more often when somebody else is in the car :redface:
 
is your fix still working?:shrug:

i have started to experience this recently, usually when i just nip out at lunch:rolleyes: and more often when somebody else is in the car :redface:


still hasnt done it again mate, it must be a bad wire in the bunce of wires that i replace.

it is pretty handy tbh, but just takes alot of time to figure out! best bet is to write down where all the wires from the ignition barrel go to, then check the wiring for it!
 
thanks for the tip ;)

seems as if i'm taking my car apart today :(

when taking the steering column covers off and clocks out, i'd assume disconnecting the battery is a must, is there anything i should be aware of that has caught people out previously?:shrug:

an unseen clip that'll break[:@], a wire attached / clipped to a cover that could be pulled:whistle:, airbag sensor:cry:
 
please help

hey i have been having the same immob probs on my 52 leon cupra r, today i stripped the instrument panel down and re soldered the pins, il let you know in the next couple of weeks if this has worked, also if anyone else is having/still having this immobilser problem then check out this thread - =199145&page=2
(wont let this newbie post a link lol)

could do with your help mate .how to get to plug to resolder it my fiend does soldering for a living ,and would do it if i can locate the plug cheers
 
hi got 2002 model ibiza 1.9 tdi and have same prop with immoboliser one min ok stop for fuel or for short time starts and cuts out straight away .can anyone talk me through getting to the plug that needs soldering,i have a friend who solders for a living and can do me the job ,just need to get to it cheers,plz help
 
Hello Everyone

After much tinkering i found that it was the green connector that needed resoldering, however the soldered pins are tiny and i dare not try it myself.

Two weeks ago i went to Speedofixer.co.uk where a very polite man took the instrument cluster out and resoldered the pins on the green block connector. Took about an hour, i sat on the couch reading magazines.

It has not played up since and it was a minimal cost compared with a new cluster.

The guy who did the work is Faroux and now he has done one Ibiza Sport TDI PD 130 i am sure he will be able to cure your problems also with out Rip Off Barcelona... ooops, i mean SEAT.

I hope this helps a lot of people who come accross this immobiliser fault.

Thanks
Richard.
 
Ibiza Immobiliser PROBLEM/FIX!!! NOW!!!

Hello

I am new to this website and have been delighted with the amount of information there is on this immobiliser issue.
My story....... i have a Seat Ibiza Sport TDI 130 that has exactly the same immobiliser fault as above. I went to a SEAT dealership in colchester, essex and they said i needed a new ECU for £1200.

Shocked i went to two independant garages (inc ecu-testing) both of which told me my ECU was fine.

Before i fork out for a new dash insert (seedo, etc) i would like to try philsip's way.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the bottom section of the plastic surround for the steering column?
Also, where is the wire that takes the signal from the reader coil to the dash panel? When I take the top section of the steering column surround off i can see a single wire connecting to the ignition barrel and a pink plug on the end of ignition barrel furthest from the key.

Thankyou for reading my post and i appreciate any advice i can get.




Hi there,
Don't know if you've got your problem sorted out yet,,,, but,,, last night after months of trying to fix the same sounding problem with our 02 Ibiza 130 Sport, i again took clocks out & found damn near all the terminals at the rear of the clock panel to have parted company. We resoldered every one of them,,, which actually only took 10 minutes. Put back together & HEY PRESTO,,, car back to normal. All guages working inc. outside temp, fuel guage & MOST IMPORTANTLY, the car starts & stops & starts & stops & starts & stops,, just like it's supposed to!!!
As i should have used a magnifying glass the very first time i looked at it months ago, i don't really have any excuses,, but i still sort of knew what i was looking for.
The original solder job just tends to break away,,, giving the intermittent fault with the immobiliser. The top two terminals of the green multi-plug are the immobiliser ones. Mine were the worst,, but there were lots of terminals of that particular plug which the solder had cracked on. We re-soldered all of them & decided to look at all the rest,,,,there were more problems with the other black plug & also many of the other posts on the rear of the clock panel faulty too. I am surprised anything worked on the dash at all!!!!
The tricky bit is taking the needles off the clocks,,,, they actually just pull off,,,, but make sure you put them to their stops before taking them off,,,you may find that a smallish flat screwdriver will help to prise them up a little if you get the screwdriver between the needle & the white round bit of the clock. I know it feels like it doesn't want to come off, but it is just quite tight,, have faith,,, it will come. Be very careful not to touch the contacts for the LCD bits of the dash. AND, once you have re-soldered the offending posts & begin to put the dash back together,, the needles will require to be put on again,,,,, do not push them right onto the dial face as they will not move & cuase you to think you've created another problem. If you push them right home, just ease them back off the dials a smidge, again with the small flat screwdriver & check by hand that the needle is free to rotate. It will be smooth, but feel slightly clicky, if you know what i mean. If its still too tight on the dials you'll feel & Hear the resistance. The rest is really just plain sailing. I put my clocks in without putting them back in their holder,, to check that everything was working & took it for a spin,,, AS IT STARTED FIRST TIME!!!!! Which it didn't before i fixed it! That's how i found the speedo needle was too tightly home!!! Easy fix, as i didn't have to completely strip the dash again!! Hopefully you can avoid this relatively simple step now though!!!

CAN i suggest that ANYONE who feels that they THEMSELVES cannot do this,,,, PLEASE find a pal or a friend of a pal or family member to give them A HAND!! THIS JOB is a piece of CAKE & DOES NOT require anyone charging you £50 +++++ an hour TO DO!!!!! OR spending £500 +++++ on a new dash,etc, etc.
IT IS simple HOME DIY stuff!!! HONEST!!!! Don't be put off!!!!
CHEAP, SIMPLE & EFFECTIVE!!!!

DO THIS JOB FIRST, it might just save you your car,,, your missus,,, your sanity & your hard earned dosh!!!!

I love driving this little car, it's a weapon!!! Mine's running 167 Gee Gee's & every one of them is a thoroughbred!!!!! Would like some more to join the stable,, but this is fine for now!!

GOOD LUCK,,, hope my MISERY is someone else's JOY!!!

Get stuck, email me. Be glad to help!!!!

Cheers,

Finners ;0)
 
It's nice to see others getting their hands dirty and fixing the issue themselves. Mine is still working great. I didin't remove the speedo, just used a fine tip and steady soldering hand
 
I only wish that when I'd started this thread back in June 2007 that people had already discovered that a simple bit of soldering could have saved me £££'s!!!! Daaaaaamn!
 
Hi Roanna! I know its been a while since this was posted but I have a nightmare of a problem with my immboliser. Can this be done without fear of wiping the mileage or having to re code the keys?

Kelly
 
Just disconnect the battery and you should be fine. had no problems at all after doing mine, and everything worked as it should too, bargain!
 
hey kellybee,

when i did mine i didnt disconnect the battery (although its probably a good idea lol) anyway no you dont have to worry about the mileage or the code on the keys, as far as i know there is a seperate ecu (might be wrong) which stores the dash info and key code and you dont actually touch that when resoldering the instrument panel, if anything its like taking the battery out of a laptop, you wont lose data.

good luck bud !
 
All done!!! Thanks soo much for all the advice. Did everything on Roannas instructions and its been three weeks and so far (touch wood) no problems. I was going to post some piccys but been told I'm too much of a newbie to do that. Thanks again everyone!!!!!! x:clap:
 
just following up my post from just over 3 years ago - my dash pod was replaced by the dealers to fix the immobiliser issue. Guess what - it is now starting to show the same problem on the replacement dash! Its not too bad at the moment, does it every couple of weeks but I know its gonna get worse and I really think its time to kick this motor in to touch
 
just following up my post from just over 3 years ago - my dash pod was replaced by the dealers to fix the immobiliser issue. Guess what - it is now starting to show the same problem on the replacement dash! Its not too bad at the moment, does it every couple of weeks but I know its gonna get worse and I really think its time to kick this motor in to touch

It's a poor design fault, all the 130pd sport dashes tend to go the same ??? Should be a fairly easy fix if it just needs soldering!!
 
Hi,

I have the same isuse with the my ibiza PD130, I belive it to be a faulty contact behind the speedo! I find if you switch the ignition off apply pressure with two fingers around the 120 mph mark on speedo glass and then turn the ignition on, it stops it from happening (for me anyway) !