mexicorich

Newbie
Apr 17, 2006
261
0
Hartlepool
Can anyone tell me what to expect in replacing the tensioner on a PD130 engine?
How much desmantling needs to take place to get the tensioner out and what needs to be dismantled?
Cheers
 
because people often replace the aux belt tensioner thinking there is a problem with it when in 99% of cases its actually the alternator pully clutch that has siezed.

unless the tensioner has 100% failed i would check the pully first, take off th3 belt and put a screwdriver between the fins, the pully should only turn one way, if it locks completely and does not turn then its siezed and needs replacing.

just curious and trying to help you not go the wrong way about repairing your car
 
Oh I see
So the electrical load on full lock would load up the alternator then?
I have read of these freewheel pulleys but my car has a solid pulley on the alternator, (perhaps because its a cheapy Seat not VW) it was just the tensioner starting to allow the belt to flap about
New belt and tensioner fitted today and no more rumbling belt sounds :)
 
Oh I see
So the electrical load on full lock would load up the alternator then?
I have read of these freewheel pulleys but my car has a solid pulley on the alternator, (perhaps because its a cheapy Seat not VW) it was just the tensioner starting to allow the belt to flap about
New belt and tensioner fitted today and no more rumbling belt sounds :)

a duff pulley will also cause the belt to flap around and wear out the tensioner more quickly:headhurt:
 
So I presumed my car had a solid pulley on the alternator rather than a seized one.
What's the possibility of this and how do I recognise a clutch type pulley?
 
I don't believe any 130's were fitted with solid pulleys could be wrong!! it should have a plastic dust cap over the end whoever did the work should have checked for a good freewheel action before fitting the belt, they have what looks like thee sets of bearings inside--the middle set are really the one way drive the grease gets cooked and stops them moving into overide position either seizing up or failing to drive and making a lot of noise I'm currently looking at a better option
 
Right.....

I've got the squeak, which is loud until warm, then nothing, a replacement aux belt solved the issue for a week.

- There is no play in the alternator wheel/pulley, which spins freely with no play.
- There IS play in the tensioner wheel/pulley, side to side as if a bearing/centre were shot.

Am i correct to replace the tensioner?


Jimski
 
Right.....

I've got the squeak, which is loud until warm, then nothing, a replacement aux belt solved the issue for a week.

- There is no play in the alternator wheel/pulley, which spins freely with no play.
- There IS play in the tensioner wheel/pulley, side to side as if a bearing/centre were shot.

Am i correct to replace the tensioner?


Jimski

does the tensioner spin one way and lock up the other if you hold the alternator blades with a screwdriver? or does it lock both ways? if it doesnt free spin then its siezed and needs replacing.
 
Alternator is fine - its free one way (slight rubbing resistance) and locks the other, its the sprung roller tensioner that has play....


Jimski
 
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does the alternator pully lock one way though?

it has a one-way clutch on it to stop it loosening when the engine is turned off, if its siezed there will be no play but it can cause irritating noises.
 
Sorry MJ i just edited....i worded it badly, it locks one way, and free (slight rubbing resistance) the other.

Jimski
 
Right, next question!! Can i just get the black roller wheel, or is it the whole sprung unit @ £41?


Jimski