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Quit ranting and tell me where to get the correct bits for the LC! :rofl:

I just don't want you guys wasting your money. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=363310
I did a fitting guild in the FAQ section. Please excuse the spelling mistakes. If you look at the last post in the thread. You'll see a link that Prawn help out on the MKIV Golf GTI forum. There is links in my guild to what you need to buy and also in Prawns thread.
Don't f@@k around and buy one of these coolers they're great!!!
 
I just don't want you guys wasting your money. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=363310
I did a fitting guild in the FAQ section. Please excuse the spelling mistakes. If you look at the last post in the thread. You'll see a link that Prawn help out on the MKIV Golf GTI forum. There is links in my guild to what you need to buy and also in Prawns thread.
Don't f@@k around and buy one of these coolers they're great!!!

Cheers... got a general idea of what needs doing and what core I need ... it's just the correct bends / joiners / hoses I need for my KO3S Cupra...
 
If you're thinking of going Hybride get the bigger one. Prawn is on here from time to time you could try PMing him if need any help with the K03 plumbing.
 
What about lag compared to a SMIC setup?

From reading around the FMIC will mean full boost at 3000-3200rpm not 2500rpm on KO3S... For that reason considering uprated SMIC and phenolic gasket.
 
There is less lag on this cooler than the standard LCR set up. It's very noticeable. It been measured at a 5psi loss across the core (by Sam Bryant, Bill B5 if I remember correctly)! There really is no negative issues that I've heard of from anyone who's fitted one to K03 or K04 Hybride or BT. I'm sure other coolers will work well, but for £200 you can't go wrong. Plus you're future proofing.
Have you looked in the B5 section Bill has recently fitted one to a BT Polo and a K03 LC. Would he be using them if they didn't work? I think CupraBarn has one and also Mylo(?) to there LC's.
 
I fitted the turborevs front mount. Very similar to the toyosport but harder to fit. I didn't find any lag fitted to a standard ko3s and if anything the car felt more responsive. Intake temps dropped a fair bit. According to vagcom. I am still using the same size core on a gt3071 turbo only running 1bar and it's not laggy at all and it's keeping intake temps nice and low. But all I'm going to do is swap the core for a larger one when it comes to mapping time as I don't think it will handle 300bhp+
 
There is cars that have over 300 and a few over 400 BHP with the Welly cooler fitted I'm sure you'll be ok. Do you have WMI fitted? I'd love to get WMI at some point.
 
No I don't have WMi installed yet but I'm looking to either do this or upgrade the cooler. I'm looking to achieve in the ball park of 450bhp with my setup. Just waiting on bigger injectors and rods. I know people will say I should have done rods first but my turbo blew first so ended up going big turbo early.
 
Have you a readers ride? I know the feeling my gear box went tits up so I fitted the diff first while it was out. Rod are on my to do list next year I'm gong to go straight to stage two when there fitted.
 
I started a readers ride but have not really bothered to update any work I have done to it as I did all the work when I had no Internet access. Mine is still running the stock map on a huge turbo and it's driving fine. I don't push it too much and it does not seem to run lean or rich. But it's pulling in around 195gs airflow which = around 230bhp. No faults on vagcom and the correction factors are not too bad. I have driven around 2k miles with no problems. I will update my readers ride soon as I have done a fair bit of work in the last 3 months.
 
If your going front mount just buy a toyosport off eBay and just buy a few straight silicone hoses to replace the blue. At least with a tried and tested kit it's all straight forward and at least the map sensor pipe is included in the kit. This is just my opinion. Takes the headache out of guessing and playing around with various pipes. Also you will have less joins in a kit as some pipes will have bends that are smooth and get around the tight access areas with no airflow distortion. The reason why o bought the turborevs version is because it has a slightly larger core and less connections but it did not have a map sensor flange or a vacuum pipe connector so I had to get these welded on after which was a pain.
 
This is my version of the Welly cooler, for the A3. This arrangement is for a ko3 framed turbo, and should work with minimal/zero trimming of the pipes/silicon. Ko4 fitment is slightly different, replacing the turbo outlet pipe with a 54-63mm silicon reducer.
This is the core, as owned by many on here already:

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

it’s a beast, and it’s SUCH good value it’s unreal.

To fit that, you’ll need to cut the back of the crash bar out, but that’s dead easy and takes 5 minutes with a grinder.

As for mounting height, I opted to hang mine with around 6’’ of the core hanging below the crash bar, and this seemed to work well with the A3 bumper. You can bring it up a BIT more, but any higher and it fouls the top of the bumper and back of the grille, any lower and it’ll hang out the bottom!

To mount that I used a length of 30mm Angle section alloy bought from B&Q for about £7. that’s just secured on little bits of box section either side of the rad. All very simple stuff, you can see pics on page 26/27 of my build thread.

As for pipes, the cold side is VERY easy.

You will need:

1x 76-63mm 90 degree reducer in silicon
1x 63mm 90 degree silicon bends
1x 63mm 90 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm straight 100mm alloy coupler.

It’ll look like this:

5c99113d.jpg


Reducer off the core > coupler to join up the next silicon bend, > then the alloy 90 takes you into the standard throttle body pipe. Simples.

As for the hot side, it’s a BIT more tricky.

You will need:

1x 76-63mm 90 degree reducer in silicon
1x 63mm 90 degree silicon bends
2x 63mm 90 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm x 300mm straight alloy pipe
1x 63mm 45 degree alloy bend
1x 63mm 45 degree silicon bend
1x 51-63mm straight silicon reducer to go onto the turbo outlet.
1x 63mm straight silicon coupler.

The layout:

51-63 reducer straight onto the turbo, pointing upwards.
> alloy 90 degree bend into that, pointing forwards towards the pax side headlight. Coupler on the end of that into:
>45 degree alloy bend into that, coming over the rocker cover
>45 degree silicon bend to take the route downwards part the starter motor
> 90 degree silicon bend on the bottom, pointing outwards towards the pax wheel.
> 90 degree alloy bend, takes you out through the side of the undertray side panel, and ends up pointing forwards below the headlight
> into the 76-63 90 degree reducer pointing back towards the centre of the car, and connected onto the core :)

Top side setup will be very similar to this: (this is my ko4 layout)

df2ad49a.jpg


Although the connection onto the turbo is slightly different, because your turbo’s sit a lot lower than my ko4 frame.

All the silicon bits and alloy bends came from Mr. Silicon on ebay:

eBay My World - mrsilicone

As for the clamps, I used JCS Hi-Grip stainless steel clamps, you need the 60-80 clips for all the 63mm pipework, 2x 70-90 clips for the core connections, and then a 50-70 for the turbo connection. Count the number of joints in the system to work out how many 60-80’s you’ll need, it’s about 12 I think.

The core was £80, my pipes from Mr silicone came to £140, and I spent about £30 on hose clips.
 
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another option, if you want to save some time / effort, is to re-use the original charge pipe instead of the first alloy 90 off the turbo. Do do this, use a 51-51 straight coupler, and mount the old charge pipe backwards sticking up and forwards from the turbo, then use a 51-63 reducer to go onto the alloy 45 degree 63mm pipe then follow the rest of the list above.