Boost problem

turbin

Guest
there are so many opinions on what's reverse and not. I believe it is designed to have the force of return boost pressing against the spring. Then you need a absolutely correct spring to work perfect. But if you use it 90 degrees there is no pressure acting against the spring. So I only needed the green one. Believe I've read some place Forge say you can use this valve both ways..
 

adam cupra 20vt

Built Not Bought.
Mar 31, 2005
6,162
2
Mud Hut
there are so many opinions on what's reverse and not. I believe it is designed to have the force of return boost pressing against the spring. Then you need a absolutely correct spring to work perfect. But if you use it 90 degrees there is no pressure acting against the spring. So I only needed the green one. Believe I've read some place Forge say you can use this valve both ways..

Excatly....surely it would function better in reverse so it worked like a normal BOV :)
 

james walker

cooling is the key people
May 24, 2007
5,121
2
retford notts
hmmmh, i may try reversing mine.. seem to have the gay stuttering boost on low revs, and a crap whistle when on boost.

standard spring in mine.

ill try reversing forst then may go stiffer spring if that doesnt work.
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
I dont think its the Forge dv at all. I have been running the forge DV fine for the last 2 years almost, and its only recent issues which have caused it to stutted, but that is related to boost leaks which I am working on getting sorted
 

KatCowie

OEM Lover
Jun 23, 2007
1,364
0
Inverurie, Aberdeenshire
I dont think its the Forge dv at all. I have been running the forge DV fine for the last 2 years almost, and its only recent issues which have caused it to stutted, but that is related to boost leaks which I am working on getting sorted

I will fit my 007p this weekend, I think it could be the standard bosc diverter valve. Cheers for all the help guys :D
 

Morley86

Guest
Thats exactly what it is. It's really annoying.

Hi Guys

Iv recently had a similar problem to this where acceleration is very jerky.

Car: Leon FR TDi 150 55reg standard engine config

The problem came on steadily throughout a 2 part journey of about 20 miles round trip, culminating in the engine management light coming on. Specific symptoms are jerky acceleration on partial throttle, turbo kicking in earlier than normal (around 1500 rpm maybe?), is very aggressive and lots of black smoke when it does. Also, when under full throttle it doesn’t seem as powerful as it used to be. Economy has fallen and its just **** to drive.

I had the AA out the following day and when he plugged in his little machine it pulled up code P0101 which is apparently a fault with the air mass meter thing (MAF?) on the air intake. Reckoned it read a value outside its normal range or something. Anyway, he just reset the light, checked the connections and said the part is probably faulty but said to see how it goes. It didn’t improve so I ordered a direct replacement from my local seat garage and fitted it yesterday and that has made no difference either. I hoped it would need bedding in buy I did a load of miles yesterday and it hasn’t improved at all.

Im planning on getting the AA out again tomorrow but has anyone got any thoughts on the actual cause of this as it cant be the MAF.

Please help! I don’t want to line the pockets of a service tech for him to spend unnecessary time trying to find a solution if I can help it. We’re in a recession you know! Lol

Thanks guys
 

DOUGIE.K

Active Member
Oct 16, 2008
13
0
FIFE,SCOTLAND
Leon mk1 power loss

Hiya, same thing started with my leon today, i`ve been told it could be the MAF, i`m going to take it to a VAG performance center tomorow so i will let you know how i get on.
C,YA
 

DOUGIE.K

Active Member
Oct 16, 2008
13
0
FIFE,SCOTLAND
Power loss

Hi, well i`m no further forward, no faults showed up on his computer, boost pressure regulation valve(n75) fine, mass air flow meter fine, turbo fine & no split hoses, he thinks it might be a loose electrical connection :cry: CAN ANYONE HELP???
 

Morley86

Guest
I havent had any luck trying to solve this problem either Morley86, and its getting more and more frustrating by the day!

Iv found my problem! stupidly, i have 2 hose leaks! there is a small one on the connection to the stall valve or whatever its called on the top left of the engine bay, though this is a very small one, and a HUGE leak on the other end of the same pipe (different section) connecting to the intercooler (ie. hose hanging off). the reason they are hanging off is due to the clips having totally snapped a leg off. the top one is fine but the one on the intercooler is a bit of a headache as the original clip is not strong enough to hold it on for even the shortest journeys and it just pops straight off which is worse than it was before as the car is then totally undrivable. as an interim measure if 'borrowed' a clip from the topside of the engine to hol it on, though this is a slightly smaller size and so is still not held on very well, but it means i can still tickle it from A to B while the replacements arrive.

has anyone else experienced these clips breaking before? they seem a little bit poor to say they are supposed to be holding on a high pressure pipe. but thats modern mechanics for you!

so i supposed the only advice i have for anyone is make sure that all your hoses are on properly as the drop in pressure was the reason for mine jumping around all over the place.

also, does anyone know where i can get replacement hoses cheaply as the lugs on mine are pretty worn.

cheers
 
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