BTCC LED running lights

robthebubble

LED & Headlight Master
Feb 22, 2011
1,442
6
Solihull, West Midlands
Rob, which size cabunchos do I need? The LED is 11mm and they only have a 10mm and then a 14mm round one? Also how many of the piggy back fuses do I need? Just checked your diagram, one piggy back to 2 LED's right? So only 6 needed?

Order the 10mm lenses as these fit perfectly within the vents, the LEDs are actuall just behind the vents once they are siliconed in place.

As for the fuse holder, you only need the one. All the positive one the drivers side connect to one terminal block and you do the same on the drivers side. Do the same with the negative too. Feed a cable between both sides of the car and connect the positive and negatives together, you then add the additional cable from the passager terminal block to the fuse holder with the positive going to it, the negative just on the car body to earth it.

Hope this helps?, if still confused I'll try and do another diagram for you later.
 

robthebubble

LED & Headlight Master
Feb 22, 2011
1,442
6
Solihull, West Midlands
This may help you guys, see the bottom of the image.

SMD.jpg
 

Benzy

Active Member
Jan 30, 2010
1,214
3
this piggy back fuse thingy....does it take the power from there or do we need to take power from the battery and run it through a fuse?
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,480
6
Northumberland
I've started ordering parts, but want to improve (no offence!) on some aspects of Rob's install:
1) Find/create casings which are a bit more of a guaranteed seal for the bulbs.
2) Put a piece of frosted glass/plastic between the SMD and carbochons..or get frosted carbochons. I've just bought a sheet and shone a LED through it, and it looks more than bright enough while hiding the SMD
3) Wire it into the system so that it stays on less time when turning ignition off and turns off when you turn on mains (NOT allowed to be on at night!)
4) Keep in mind (although NOT legally requried)
Vehicle manufacturers must meet the requirements laid out in UNECE regulation 48 on the installation of vehicle lighting which requires the following:

6.19.4. Position
6.19.4.1. In width: the distance between the inner edges of the apparent surfaces in the direction of the reference axes shall not be less than 600 mm.
This distance may be reduced to 400 mm where the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1,300 mm.
6.19.4.2. In height: above the ground not less than 250 mm nor more than 1,500 mm.
6.19.4.3. In length: at the front of the vehicle. This requirement shall be deemed to be satisfied if the light emitted does not cause discomfort to the driver either directly, or indirectly through the devices for indirect vision and/or other reflecting surfaces of the vehicle.
6.19.5. Geometric visibility
Horizontal: outwards 20° and inwards 20°.
Vertical: upwards 10° and downwards 10°.
6.19.6. Orientation
Towards the front.
 
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Benzy

Active Member
Jan 30, 2010
1,214
3
Could u possibly just rub the glass lenses with some wet and dry to scratch the surface up? Don't no if that will work, just an idea.

Also as u said the drls can't b on when headlights or sidelights r on. Possibly working out a way for the power to take the route of least resistance and therefor shutting the drls off when headlights r on?

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk
 

Faceless

Active Member
Apr 2, 2012
254
0
I see cars at night with what appears to be their primary headlights on, while the DRL's are still on too. :confused:
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,480
6
Northumberland
Could u possibly just rub the glass lenses with some wet and dry to scratch the surface up? Don't no if that will work, just an idea.

Also as u said the drls can't b on when headlights or sidelights r on. Possibly working out a way for the power to take the route of least resistance and therefor shutting the drls off when headlights r on?

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk

The prob is...having it hooked straight to the fusebox takes you out of the evil clutches of CAN-BUS....
Once we start tinkering on the bus...muchos problemos. Unless there's an easy "resistor" bypass for that as well.
 

shnazzle

Glass-Half-Full Member
Sep 9, 2011
3,480
6
Northumberland
I see cars at night with what appears to be their primary headlights on, while the DRL's are still on too. :confused:

I think the trick is that the DRL laws apply to car models that are produced since September (?) 2011. So if you retro-fit, the rules don't count.

However, laws based in 1989 do still state that you can't blind or cause visual hindrance to other road traffic. So most cars will turn down the brightness of the LEDs at night.

Another funky feature request :D ...A dimmer. or auto-dimmer on turning on headlights
 

Benzy

Active Member
Jan 30, 2010
1,214
3
auto dimmer...blimy this is getting complicated haha. i was thinking of just simply installing an inline switch under the bonnet just next to the fuse box and simply flick the switch if there are any problems legaly and for when it goes for an MOT to be safe :)
 
Jun 24, 2011
1,137
0
Sheffield
Seems to be the thing we need, I'm confused by the wiring diagram tho, Can we still used the piggy back fuse thing for the ignition feed? They also do DRLR3 which dims for indicators too like the Audi system does.
 
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